I read and worked on PE last night. Since I am in a cycle already, I jumped to this rather than restarting (and I am trying to peak for beg of May).
In the chapter on PE, it says about 6 seconds per hand movement. So I timed movement last night and my timing is about 4 sec/movement or slightly faster.
1. is there a value in a 6 sec isometric contraction? Since climbing is movement based, I would think I would not want to become more static (this is an issue for me already, and the last 6 months I have been really trying to move faster).
2. In your experience in PE training is the work time more important or the number of moves? I have found the most benefit by focusing on time. So if I need to be on the wall for 4 minutes, I would increase moves appropriately to get to this.
Post by MarkAnderson on Apr 23, 2014 9:30:44 GMT -7
Did you time yourself climbing inside, on plastic? We all climb faster on plastic than we do on real rock. The reason for this is that plastic holds are less intricate, easier to grab and require less adjustment to grab effectively. The same goes for plastic footholds, which are generally much larger than real rock footholds, and so require much less precision. These factors allow for much quicker movements inside.
To your question, I think "Time Under Tension" (TUT) is more important than # of moves. Ideally, you would climb your indoor PE training route at the same pace you will climb your outdoor goal route. I suggest your try to slow yourself down a bit while training inside, and avoid the urge to sprint. However, even if you do that, you will still likely be climbing faster than you do outside, so a good compromise is to add more moves as you suggested, to increase the total set time.
Post by Mike Anderson on Apr 27, 2014 4:31:22 GMT -7
Remember, the timing given in the book is based purely on analysis of my own climbing. Therefore, the timing given is not universally applicable to everyone, but the method is. Take some video of yourself climbing on real rock (it's very easy to do in this day and age), and perform your own analysis.
As Mark implied, I think you'll find that you climb much, much slower outside. We describe some techniques in the book for slowing down your LBCs, like time gates, and using complicated holds.
You are correct. If your LBC is 60 seconds long, you'd climb for 60 seconds, then rest for 60 seconds with a duty cycle of 1:1 or 4:4 or 2:2. A duty cycle of 1:2 with a 60 second LBC would be climb 60 seconds, rest for 120 seconds.
Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 11, 2018 15:24:47 GMT -7
Well, not exactly. Yes 4/4=1/1. But the intent of using 4:4 is to indicate that for that particular session, you should be using a relatively long TUT (~4 minutes) and a relatively long rest period (~4 minutes). Certainly, an LBC with a 1:1 duty cycle is very different from a Route Interval with a 4:4 duty cycle, regardless of what the math says.