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Post by jessebruni on Nov 14, 2017 16:16:47 GMT -7
Send this route: www.youtube.com/watch?v=lk0DMgMmlZUAs of yesterday I can only do about 50% of the moves on their own, and couldn't link pretty much any of them, so I'm a very long way's away. I feel personally that setting "ridiculously ambitious" goals makes me push myself much harder than I would otherwise and I end up training harder, and smarter and improve more than if I had slightly more achievable goals. In the end, even not achieving the goal, if I get much better due to trying to achieve it then I think it's a success. Other goals: 1 arm pull up, 1 arm lockoff for 10 seconds, front lever. "Ridiculously ambitious" was understating things by a country mile. I finally sent this route this past Saturday 11/11/17 (that's nearly three years if you're counting) (new video: youtu.be/32NxwoaRTxc ). Still can't do a damn front lever but if I train one-arms for a month I can pull them off and I can do 1-arm lockoffs for about 10 seconds more or less off the couch. Now if I set a new goal of climbing the hardest route in the area (a bouldery 14d FA'd by Cody Roth), based on how this goal went, I should probably allocate about 7-10 years of training...yeesh.
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Post by jetjackson on Nov 14, 2017 16:42:06 GMT -7
I feel personally that setting "ridiculously ambitious" goals makes me push myself much harder than I would otherwise and I end up training harder, and smarter and improve more than if I had slightly more achievable goals. In the end, even not achieving the goal, if I get much better due to trying to achieve it then I think it's a success.
Congrats again! I'd be interested to hear how the journey has gone for you, and what you think you have learnt that was specific to this goal vs. had you not pursued this, and perhaps pursued other, more lateral climbing goals - eg. multi-pitch, big wall or trad within your grade, or just more modest goals. As per the highlighted comment above, you note that you think you would have to train 'harder and smarter' - what did you change over the past 3 years in your training, what did you get better at, what do you think you had to do in order to pull off the route?
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 14, 2017 17:29:10 GMT -7
Nice work man! Way to stick with it! Reimers looks better than I imagined, maybe worth a visit some day. Man, that dyno at the end looks like a real mindfuck!
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Post by Chris W on Nov 14, 2017 20:49:52 GMT -7
Sweet!! I was wondering how you were doing. I think about you down in Texas every time I complain about the heat and humidity here.
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Post by jessebruni on Nov 15, 2017 9:18:40 GMT -7
Thanks guys! Mark, Reimers isn't a bad way to spend a weekend if you happen to be in Austin for some non-climbing related reason but I wouldn't come down this way just for the climbing. The dyno was a redpoint killer! It's a slot jug so you have to be accurate, and the left hand is a glassy, non-incut 1/3 pad crimp, so you have to keep your hips close to the wall the whole time or else you'll slip off. I only ever completed the low boulder problem four times in the entirety of working this thing and three of those 4 times I fell at that dyno move. Sticking it was a bit surreal! Jackson, those are good questions, I'll try to answer but I'm not sure I have an answer for everything. I'd be interested to hear how the journey has gone for you, and what you think you have learnt that was specific to this goal vs. had you not pursued this, and perhaps pursued other, more lateral climbing goals - eg. multi-pitch, big wall or trad within your grade, or just more modest goals. I think the way I pursued this goal was not all-encompassing, which is important. When I first got on the route in January 2015 it was out of my league so I more or less didn't touch it again for another 10 months. I spent that time pursuing smaller goals (first 13b, more 13a's), but all the while I was building up my strength so the route wouldn't be out of my league. The nice thing about this route in particular is that it doesn't require any weird strengths that don't translate to other rock climbs. If you have strong fingers, it's not even too hard of a route, so I knew that by getting my fingers stronger long term I was preparing for the route. Multi-pitch, big wall, and trad all sounds fun, but in a lot of ways I feel like I have a ticking clock with respect to how much time I have to really get stronger. It's probably not true, but as long as I'm motivated to keep getting stronger I feel like it's beneficial for me to stick with bouldering and sport climbing and leave the multi-pitch or trad climbing for when I'm less psyched on getting stronger and just want to branch out more as a climber. I'll reach that point some day but I'm not there yet. So ultimately I was pursuing lots of smaller goals throughout the time I worked this route (First V9, first V10, First 13c, first 13a flash, win specific comps) and all of those goals I achieved, but they were also all stepping stones to prepare myself for this. I think ultimately I could have set 9 smaller goals throughout the years with the 10th one being to send this route and I could have achieved each of them in a season or less. I'm not sure it would have made a difference. As per the highlighted comment above, you note that you think you would have to train 'harder and smarter' - what did you change over the past 3 years in your training, what did you get better at, what do you think you had to do in order to pull off the route? I think the "harder and smarter" was speculation. It FEELS like having a big goal makes me train harder and smarter, but that's a personal thing I feel and I have no real data to back that up. I think it just motivates me and that motivation is worth it. If I had simply set a goal to climb a letter grade harder, I'd kind of know in the back of my head that I'll achieve it relatively quickly and I wouldn't need to work that hard to get there. But with this goal, I know plenty of people who got to 13b and stalled out and I had a feeling like I could have been one of those people without a reason to get to the point where 13b was relatively easy. As far as actually pulling off the route goes...it's funny. I don't think, even now, that I am too strong for the route. Sometimes when you project something the way that you end up sending is by eclipsing the route in terms of strength. You get strong enough that you can afford to make mistakes, not be in the best headspace, not be in the best shape. Last year I nearly sent the thing on one weekend, and at 130lbs I was 10lbs lighter than I am now, and it sort of felt like I was stronger than the route, but I couldn't maintain that weight for more than a few weeks. Some bad weather rolled in, and by the time the route dried off 4 months later (no exaggeration) I was in the upper 130's and the route felt impossible. This year it was important to me to be able to do the route at a weight that I felt was healthier and maintainable long term (just under 140lbs right now). In order to do it at this weight I needed to try really hard, I needed all my tactics, all my micro-beta. It was a fight for sure, but I think in order to do it I had to let go of the need to do it. I had to want it more than anything but at the same time be content with myself as a climber if I didn't send it. It's a weird place to be mentally, but the day I sent I was there and I knew it. Sorry for all the rambling. I hope that answered some of your questions. I have a lot of thoughts about the route and the process but I'm not sure they're all even coherent haha.
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Post by jessebruni on Nov 15, 2017 9:20:15 GMT -7
Sweet!! I was wondering how you were doing. I think about you down in Texas every time I complain about the heat and humidity here. Haha, it's ridiculous sometimes. Middle of November with a high of 80 degrees today! By the way, congrats on your 13a! It's been cool to follow your journey from 5.11 to 5.13!
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Post by aikibujin on Nov 16, 2017 8:16:38 GMT -7
I finally sent this route this past Saturday 11/11/17 (that's nearly three years if you're counting) (new video: youtu.be/32NxwoaRTxc Nice work! That's like climbing on a hanging garden, I can imagine it must be really humid in the summer time!
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Post by jessebruni on Nov 28, 2017 14:49:25 GMT -7
It's not as bad as you might think, but I could also be used to the humidity. I was climbing at Red Rocks over Thanksgiving weekend and I felt like my fingertips were too glassy since it was so dry. I was dry-firing off of everything and literally had to wet my hands with water before each attempt on something.
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Post by Chris W on Nov 28, 2017 18:21:37 GMT -7
I was wondering if your body had adjusted to the humidity there. I've never been a fan of heat and humidity, even as a little kid growing up in Georgia. I think my tolerance has decreased though, because back then we would routinely have summer days over 100, and I start to melt way before that now.
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