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Post by jetjackson on Apr 16, 2020 22:39:09 GMT -7
So I am building a bucket list of 80s hard-man lines that I'd love to climb some of one day. Some may be a stretch. Which classics am I missing?
The New Deal - 5.14a - Joshua Tree To Bolt of Not to Be - 5.14a - Smith Rock Peace - 5.13d - Yosemite La Rose et La Vampire - 5.13d - Buoux Punks in the Gym - 5.14a - Arapiles City Park - 5.13d - Index Wallstreet - 5.14b - Frankenjura
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Post by MarkAnderson on Apr 17, 2020 7:48:47 GMT -7
Interesting idea...
Survival of the Fittest, 13a Gunks Ekel, 13a, Frankenjura Papy On Sight, 13a, Verdon Gorge Rainbow Wall, 13b Eldo Statement of Youth, 13b, Pen Trwyn Renegade aka The Stigma, 13b? Yosemite Rude Boys, 13c, Smith Revelations, 13c, Raven Tor Chouca, 13c, Buoux East Face (of the Monkey) 13d, Smith Kanal im Rucken, 13d, Frankenjura
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Post by jetjackson on Apr 18, 2020 2:48:24 GMT -7
Nice, I was scolded by a friend today for not including;
Serpentine, 5.13b, Grampians Lord of The Rings, 5.13d, Arapiles
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Post by MarkAnderson on Apr 18, 2020 8:10:38 GMT -7
I don’t really think of Serpentine as an 80s line since it was so futuristic, but I now that you mention it I guess it was done in 88 or something like that? Way ahead of its time!
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Post by jetjackson on Apr 18, 2020 16:38:47 GMT -7
Why do you describe it as futuristic?
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Post by jcm on Apr 18, 2020 19:13:05 GMT -7
This is like a world tour of heinous crimping.
I'd also suggest adding Grand Illusion to the list. A year too early for the 80's criteria, but quite futuristic for its time in difficulty, and tactics employed.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Apr 19, 2020 7:25:36 GMT -7
I thought I wanted to climb Grand Illusion until I saw video of it. The climbing just looks miserable to me. Plus it’s situation and stature isn’t very inspiring compared to its peers. Still, no question it’s a significant route.
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Post by jetjackson on Apr 19, 2020 16:16:40 GMT -7
Yeah, just looks like the same heinous move many times in a row.
The list is pretty much a global tour of crimping. Perhaps that's a reflection of the time and style. It emerged out of trad climbing, leader-must-not-fall, three points of contact at all times ethic. Not to mention that rap bolting was just starting to emerge. The logical sequence was to go from cracks to the faces, and thus small and smaller holds on the faces with a lot of 3 points of contact. At least, that's what it seems like based on my understanding of the times.
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Post by sbleazard on Apr 23, 2020 20:58:11 GMT -7
Agincourt or anything in the Statement of Youth doc by BMC.
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Post by sbleazard on Apr 23, 2020 21:00:03 GMT -7
Maniac 5.13d/14a in Maine, too!
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