I'm getting ready to set a PE circuit and the two-goal routes have are completely opposite styles and I don't know which one I'm going to end up projecting. One is a bouldery rightward cave traverse on slopers/pockets and is very sustained while the other is vertical, technical, and crimpy. First of all, how do you determine how many moves are in a route if all you know is the height and you don't have resources such as videos? About how many moves would a 60-foot route have most likely have? What about an 80-foot route? Probably 3 feet per move right? So maybe 20/25 moves? I thought that one compromise would be a circuit that is/has: 20 moves, big moves on slopers/pockets that go to the right, hard lock-offs on crimps, bad footholds, and little rest. Any thoughts? Thanks!
You have to count the moves on your goal route - best if there is a beta video out there if you have not been on it yet. The number of feet is not a good indicator of the PE required. How many moves between the rests is more important. I've done short 12 feet sections with more moves than other 30 foot section climbs.
If you had say a shorter, powerful bouldery route that required a bit of PE but not crazy PE, it would make sense to target that during the earlier part of your performance phase. You have just come out of power, drop a couple of PE sessions and start projecting it. Use your time on the route also to build your PE if you can. Then if you send that 2 weeks or so into your performance phase you can start PE training on something longer, with more moves, that's more endurance based, to finish out the final stage of your performance phase projecting it.
That's who I'd approach it, and actually, that's how a lot of my seasons have at least aimed to go. I'll try short and powerful routes in my first couple of performance weeks and then move on to the more endurance projects after that.