So, there are three general ways of increasing LBC difficulty throughout a PE phase: 1) make the route harder, 2) decrease the rest interval and 3) adding more sets. The book argues that #3 isn't effective and personally, I've always used #2 because it seems hard to do #1 very systematically.
However, my new LBC is set on an adjustable-angle system wall and now I'm thinking about trying method #1 by steeping the angle by 1-2 degrees between sessions. Has anyone tried this?
My hunch is that it's better to pick an angle matching that of your goal route and just stick with it throughout the phase, but curious if anyone has tried this in the past.
Last Edit: Sept 30, 2019 11:22:39 GMT -7 by cozisco
Post by MarkAnderson on Sept 30, 2019 15:10:53 GMT -7
Actually I don’t think you want your LBC to be the same angle as your goal route, for the same reasons you don’t want Limit Boulder at the same angle as your goal route(s)—skin and footholds. If you train at the same angle, your handholds will need to be so small your skin will get shredded. Likewise, realistically sized plastic footholds are virtually nonexistent, so you’re likely to have an unrealistically large footholds, requiring even smaller handholds to get the right difficulty, further exacerbating the first problem.
That makes sense. I guess you're arguing that an LBC should be steeper than a goal route, such that the handholds are approximately the same size.
Next cycle, I think I'll start at an angle steeper than my goal route, then try increasing difficulty by making the board steeper and steeper over time, keeping work:rest ratio consistent. We'll see how it goes.