Post by acmesalute76 on Jun 26, 2019 12:57:45 GMT -7
It seems like I can’t make any progress on weighted pull-ups. I have made it nowhere in the last two seasons. Last fall I did +45x3 and body weight x19 at about 170. This season I didn’t even do that well.
Anyone had success getting above this level? I guess another thing I’m wondering is should I even bother? Will it help me climb? I’ve considered adding more climbing instead of supplemental exercises to develop skills instead of being stuck doing pull-ups at the same weight. Although I can see how building pull strength will help me campus more. I’m starting to break into the 5.12 grade for context.
Post by jetjackson on Jun 26, 2019 16:11:13 GMT -7
Body weight x 19 is more than sufficient if you are doing them strictly - i.e. you're not doing any sort of 'kipping' style that crossfitters use, and you are extending to full retracted - i.e. none of this half bent elbows malarkey.
I'd probably only be at about 20 strict pullups, and I'm fairly solid on 5.12 and working 5.13-. A friend of mine recently did the lattice training assessment, and they say in their write up that they see 20 strict pull ups as the 'gold standard' for male climbers. They see 1.5x bodyweight 1 rep max pullups as the gold standard for strength - you're not that far off that. Keeping in mind, that gold standard is what they're looking at for 5.14 climbers.
170 lbs is quite heavy - how tall are you? If you're under 6 foot, there could be a fair chunk of opportunity to trim that weight back - which would be a lot more effective than trying to increase 1RM on your pullup.
Post by acmesalute76 on Jun 26, 2019 20:04:51 GMT -7
I’m 6’ 1” tall. I’ve been hovering around 168 pounds recently but 170 is pretty comfortable for me. I think I could go as low as 165 if I wanted to but it doesn’t seem necessary right now.
I have definitely guessed that pull-up strength wouldn’t be a limiting factor right now, but it still would be cool to increase. My all time best was in college when I was more into weightlifting, and I did 23 at 200lbs body weight, and probably a similar amount with weight added (+45 but higher body weight). So I also have a long history of weight training, which maybe is contributing to my stubbornness to improve. It just sucks to be working on it week after week and seeing no improvement, when I could be putting that energy into something else, or maybe using better methods. It’s cool to hear about the lattice guys opinions though, so maybe I don’t need to worry about it so much. Finger strength is for sure a much greater limiter for me.
Post by jetjackson on Jun 26, 2019 22:03:15 GMT -7
Think about recovery capacity - if you're increasing your 1rm on a weighted pull-up, it is at the expense of something else that you help you climb better, such as finger strength as you mention.
I came from a background of weight training, when I was younger body image was much more important to me - probably originates from a youth of being bullied for being skinny - I used to do the starting strength routine for years and I came to climbing at 6 foot to the dot, and weighing in at 172 pounds.
I'm now 150 pounds.
There is no doubt in my mind that you could get to 160, and that it would significantly benefit your climbing, much more than increasing your 1rm pullup.
You could probably break into 5.13 at that weight, but it will be harder - to be blunt, if you can drop some of that weight then you could quite probably accelerate your climbing performance.
Post by MarkAnderson on Jun 27, 2019 7:59:44 GMT -7
I don’t see the value in weighted pull-ups for climbers and I don’t do them. I do 1 arm pull-ups (or assisted 1 arm pull-ups, depending on how strong/heavy I am). I see a little value in 1 arms, but mostly it’s a vanity thing, haha. I think the best reason to do 1 arms is that they help with lock off strength. About once a year I do something like a one arm while climbing. They also help with campusing, but training for the sake of training better is kinda silly.