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Post by marcusyoya on Apr 15, 2019 14:01:37 GMT -7
Hello-
I am a small climber (5'0") with very short arms and struggle with slab/vertical terrain that is very difficult (12 and higher.) A lot of pitches on limestone and sandstone that are of that hard grade require longer than "normal lock off distances" for me where as for taller climbers can literally reach holds of the small vertical crimps. On higher angle terrain (even 5 degrees overhanging) there are usually more option for me and can climb more dynamically with the feet and hands on a route.
How would you go about training the lock off strength past the typical fully bent elbow position (dab dance move)? I feel like I need to learn to mantle with crappy feet and micro crimps to ever get better at slab/vert rock climbing. Thanks.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Apr 16, 2019 8:11:22 GMT -7
Theoretically I'd think some variation on Muscle Ups would be a good option. That motion trains every possible lockoff position through arms pointing straight down. However, a classic Muscle Up is done with palms facing "in". For rock climbing specificity I'd think you'd want your palms facing out as much as possible. I imagine just about everyone will need (lots of) assistance to do a Muscle Up that way, and it would probably help to do it from a fixed bar (vice rings).
Another option is just to do lots of lock offs on the wall, campusing, and the typical supplemental exercises (especially including 1-arms). That's all I've ever done.
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Post by marcusyoya on Apr 16, 2019 8:55:49 GMT -7
That sounds like a plan. I will look for a progression for strict muscles ups with hands on a bar. Thanks!
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