skin/pain issues when hangboarding in AM

[mikekane]

Hi guys (and gals),

I've been using my RPTC hangboard for about 3 years now and I felt like I had acclimated to using it, but recently(ish) I've had to switch from working out after work to working out in the morning and have been having some problems with my pain tolerance in the crimp grip.  Also my skin is getting absolutely shredded (red and tender for a day or so afterwards) and I've been consistently failing my crimp sets due to skin (and maybe joint?) pain which is a new thing for me.  I've logged a ton of PM workouts using this same grip with no problems, so I'm a little bit surprised at the issue... 

The only thing that comes to mind is my hangboard is on my porch (compromises of married life) so maybe the humidity is higher in the AM, but I live in AZ so its not like the humidity is an issue in general and I've done hangboard workouts in 100 degree heat before where I turn in to a giant sweaty puddle with limited issues.

Has anyone experienced anything similar and, if so, did anything help?  Obvious answer is probably to just keep doing it and my body will get used to it, just figured I'd see if anyone has any nuggets of wisdom

Thanks,
Mike

[MarkAnderson]

I've certainly experienced tender skin and stiff joints in the morning. More so as I get older. I'd guess all the extra pain is simply due to doing the workout in the morning. That said, I know lots of people who hangboard at O-dark-thirty, so presumably it is something you can get used to over time (and with the proper warm up).

As for why your skin is getting shredded, I wonder if your skin is softer in the morning? Do you generally sleep with your hands under your covers? I would pay attention to how soft/hard your skin is at varying times during the day, and see if there's something you can do to help harden your skin before the workout (like a morning walk outside in cold temps?)

[Chris W]

I often train at 0-dark-thirty, and I've had occasional issues with skin pain, though not with hangboarding. It seemed to be more of an issue with power/PE in the past. I think I described it in my training logs as "skin pain" and feeling like my "skin needed to wake up". I would experience the same skin tenderness.

For me, the warm up has been key to preventing this. Not only do I need to get my tendons/muscles/ligaments/joints warmed up, but my skin as well. I've done this best through the climbing-specific warm ups prescribed in the book. It can take a long time for me. 15 min ARC, 30 min WBL, 15-20 min Hard Bouldering, then limit boulder. That's over an hour to warm up!

Think of your skin like silly putty (go get some at the dollar store). When you first get it out of the little egg container, it's cold, stiff, and will tear away in hunks if you pull on it. If you take some time though and warm it up in your hands and gently knead it, it becomes more stretchy and pliable, even to the point it will stretch in long thin strands that the kids will grind into their clothing and becomes impossible to get out.

[MarkAnderson]

You know a little too much about silly puddy.

[mikekane]

Thanks guys! I don't sleep with my hands under the covers (although I would have never thought to check that!), so sounds like I just might need a more protracted warm up before hanging. I am thinking I will increase the length of my climbing warm up or move some of my supplemental exercises to the beginning of my workout (double bonus -- more time outside in the cold) and maybe invest in some liquid chalk.

I ended up doing my Sunday workout in the afternoon because the kiddo was up all night and sort of derailed our Sunday plans so the experiments will continue Wednesday....

Feb 22, 2019 19:45:22 GMT -7 Chris W said:

it becomes more stretchy and pliable, even to the point it will stretch in long thin strands that the kids will grind into their clothing and becomes impossible to get out.

Also, sweet analogy