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Post by jetjackson on Nov 28, 2018 16:39:00 GMT -7
Yeah, There is a 4 foot high stool under the route that stays there permanently for the jump start.
It looks like you did the pull on start - which apparently makes this 25, if you launch up to the jug holds that are below your feet in the second shot, and then pull on, it's a 24. It got downgraded in the guide because everyone was doing the jump and then claiming 25.
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Post by jetjackson on Dec 2, 2018 14:48:32 GMT -7
I got back on the route on Saturday, conditions were not ideal (30 degree high = 86f), but the cliff gets shade and a breeze which makes it workable. I set out to do a few things after our discussions here - I was really organised with my project partner, as he only had 4 hours to climb. His wife is a bit stricter around letting him go off climbing by himself. We had already written out a plan of attack for the day to be as efficient as possible. The climb goes into the shade half at 11:30 am, and fully by 12:30 pm - we warmed up on another route, and then he went bolt to bolt to hang the draws before having two red-point attempts. He got through the second crux to the run-out on his first attempt, taking a pretty big whipper - maybe 25-30 feet. Seeing this was good for both of us, as he was still a good 30 feet off the ground, despite coming off only 3 or so feet before the resting clipping position below the final corner. His second burn was not as successful, as it was warming up and the lower crux started to get tougher in the heat. As mentioned previously, I've been trying to bite this project off in chew-able pieces. My goals for Saturday were;
- Take whips on the second crux off the ‘good holds’ these are holds about 2/3rds the way up the run-out. - Refine beta for the middle section – particularly foot beta. - Climb run-out section at least 5 times - Climb final clip to chains at least 5 times
So off the bat I pulled through the start crux to the middle section. Mid-week I had spent my night, Ondra style, visualising the middle section. I mapped out the beta on my computer and watched the videos back. I would lay on the rug in the lounge-room and go through the moves – if I got to a spot where I would be wondering where to put my foot, I’d stop, go to the beta maps and computer and watch the video back, and then I’d start the visualisation again. I did this until I could visualise every single move of the middle section, knowing exactly where I would clip, and where my feet would be. I probably did this visualisation exercise 20 odd times… with my wife laughing of course. On my first burn of the day, I wanted to put this to the test – I led that whole middle section significantly more efficiently than what I had the previous week on my first go. It was a good take-away for me, as it saved me time working out, and remembering beta on route. I believe that this will come in very useful in future as I become more time poor. Visualising is something you can do on rest-days that doesn’t affect your recovery at all.
Additionally, on that first burn, I cruised through the second crux, up to the ‘good holds’ and then took the whip. I would have only just had my feet above the bolt, but it was a good start, as the fall was very clean and built a bit of confidence in me. I know that if I can get to those holds mid run-out, I can get a little bit back before I get to the resting clipping hold above. I’ll be in control, and if I decide I don’t have the energy to make it to the clip, I can just take the whip there quite comfortably. This was reinforced to me when Nate took the bigger whip on his turn straight after.
On my second attempt, I wanted to lead the route from the start up past the second crux and take a bigger fall. I got through the starting crux, cruising up to the rest before the second crux. This is an interesting rest stance. It requires a hand-swap in a pocket that in itself is a little bit strenuous. It has great feet, and is maybe 15 degrees overhung at that point. On Nates RP burn, he rested here for 4 minutes before attempting to push through the second crux. I rested for about a minute. I’m yet to determine the ideal rest, but for me I don’t think it is four minutes. I pushed through the second crux, not as fresh with the start crux lingering in my forearms. I got to the dodgy pinch (1.5 fingers with thumb catch, shallow and slopy) and while trying to move my feet up, I came off. I lowered to get Nate on for another RP burn before he had to get home.
After Nate’s attempt, he climbed to the top, leaving the rope in for another local climber who agreed to belay me for the rest of the afternoon in exchange for them getting the chance to follow on the route. I ended up following the route up to the anchors, to work the final sequence. I worked it twice, and did not fall off once. In fact, I have never fallen off the final sequence, but it still feels insecure every time I do it. The peer pressure off hanging around too long on the rope with a belayer that I don’t know that well, stopped me from dogging it more times. Possibly a mistake. On my way down, I hung a very long 8 foot extended draw through the run-out section.
After letting a couple of others follow the route, I pulled the rope, now with ‘Captain Longdraw’, aka ‘Go Go Gadget Quick-Draw’ in place on the run-out. I faltered at the starting crux, blaming the heat, but made it up to the second crux and hung on the draw very briefly. Slightly pumped, I climbed up to clip Captain Longdraw, which I could from those ‘good holds’ – I tried to get a little back to hit the crimp and high foot that gains the next rested clipping stance, but came off while going for it. I dogged my way up to the last bolt before the chains, and then got the belayer to lower me back to below the second crux. With the rope here, it’s possible to work this crux without significant rope chewing drag. I worked the crux and up through the run out section on TR multiple times, trying to do it as I increasingly became pumped, only resting slightly in between, effectively doing my best to improve my technique on this section so I could build confidence to climb it while pumped. In the end, I was climbing it fairly pumped and shaky, but I think it was doable. At least I was confident enough that when I lowered for the day I took off Captain Longdraw and committed to running out the crux next weekend.
That’s where I’m at. I feel I’m ready to start redpoint attempts now. I’m not fully confident on the final section to the chains. I have probably 3 more days on the route, so another 6 or so opportunities for solid attempts. Irrespective of whether or not I get it, I’m learning a lot about projecting strategy. The big take-away for me is the visualisation.
On the Sunday, I hiked up to a crag called Muline, with the famous line Eye of the Tiger. I got on it for the first time and dogged my way to the crux. When I was 30 I set the goal to try and climb Eye of the Tiger at age 35. It was my first recon on the route to give me an idea of how to design my training through the summer before getting on it next Autumn.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Dec 3, 2018 9:28:45 GMT -7
Curious that you didn't get on TP on Sunday. I think you'll find you have better results with projecting if you pick one route at a time and focus 100% of your energy/skin/fitness on that one route until its finished.
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Post by jetjackson on Dec 3, 2018 14:05:26 GMT -7
Curious that you didn't get on TP on Sunday. I think you'll find you have better results with projecting if you pick one route at a time and focus 100% of your energy/skin/fitness on that one route until its finished. Partner availability is the issue there. My project partner couldnt be there and the climbers who were free didn't want to go to that crag. I'm rapidly trying to find another willing person.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Dec 3, 2018 19:13:27 GMT -7
I see. That’s when it helps to be able to draw on any combination of: -A large pool of partners to call on -Clever manipulation skills -Shameless pleading -compromise and/or bartering
In that situation, I would probably try to negotiate visiting two crags in one day. I understand Muline has a pretty long approach, making that difficult, but Bundaleer is pretty short, so you could potentially do a quick stop off on the way home for one burn. Obviously the Gramps are really spread out, and I don’t recall how far apart those crags are, so maybe that’s impractical, but something to consider (maybe there’s another crag closer to TP that your partners would be psyched on). Last year when Boer was working Sonic Youth I had another project elsewhere in Clear Creek and we hit both crags each day.
Failing that, you could also try rope soloing or begging for partners at the crag. Going forward, try to get to know everyone else that is currently working the route. If you are on friendly terms they’re much more likely to give you a belay, or you can even get their contact info and make arrangements ahead of time to climb with them.
Basically, when I’m locked in on a project I’m very aggressive about getting partners for every climbing day, and I’m assertive about getting what I need from my partner to facilitate sending, including going to the right crag, starting at the right time, etc.
Karma-wise I try to make up for that by being available to belay on my rest days or take a passive role when my partner’s objective is more “important” than mine (surely I fail here).
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Post by jetjackson on Dec 4, 2018 4:30:52 GMT -7
In that situation, I would probably try to negotiate visiting two crags in one day. Good tip, I've since done this - found someone that has a project about 30 mins drive away, so we can hit both. I had racked up a few belay credits with someone during my ARC cycle, where I'd spend an entire rest day just belaying them, but they haven't returned the favor, so I probably won't be doing that again.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Dec 4, 2018 11:16:53 GMT -7
Ya, its a bit of a leap of faith. You have to believe that Karma will pay you back eventually, even if your partner doesn't. Congrats on your new God status
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Post by jetjackson on Dec 9, 2018 14:20:01 GMT -7
Unfortunately this weekend just past was a bit of a write-off. Saturday it rained, and so I stayed home and built a bubble around my home wall to prepare for the summer. Sunday we did a day trip - the weather was predicting 60% chance of storms in the afternoon, but weather forecasts here can be extremely unreliable. Multiple times I've decided not to go to the Gramps, only to see photos on instagram of perfect weather. We opted for a day trip, leaving at 6:30am, and getting to my partner's project at 9:30am. 2 hours of working burns for him, and then we headed over to Bundaleer so that I could get on TP. On the way there, storm clouds were threatening and we had some drops of rain - we nearly bailed on the idea then but it seemed that it might miss us. There is no cell reception there, so you can't check the radar to see what is coming - you have to smell the wind like they did in the old days. I dogged on the draws for a warm-up, this time doing the run out section without an extended draw, and came down just in time before the sky opened up. We sat in a cave and luckily the route stayed mostly dry, courtesy of a roof over the very top and a wind blowing the rain in another direction. Things eased and I got on for my first red-point attempt - the air was moist, not great conditions, but I am running out of time for this route if it is to go this season, and can't afford to wait. I pulled through the starting crux - which I got some footage of - but cut feet on the section before the rest, which meant I held on just with a mono and right hand slimper before getting my feet back on. I was still clean, but it caused unnecessary pump. I tried to shake out as much as possible at the first rest, and cruised through the mid-section of the route to the second rest - heart pumping so hard and fast I could hear it, with arms fairly pumped. I sat on that rest for about 2 minutes until my breathing and heart calmed. I pushed into the second crux, getting to the hardest move, which is a right shallow half pad pinch with just the thumb and forefinger, and a touch of the middle finger. I didn't feel that I had that hold well, and I sat on it for about 10 seconds pulsating, trying to get a better grip before the next move. I came off when I thought I couldn't hold it any longer. I think that I came off because of mental reasons, of not committing to push through the moves while pumped. I didn't fall while trying a move, I essentially just fell off pumped out on a hold. It wasn't so much as a fear of falling, than maybe a fear of failure that seemed to paralyse me there. Something for me to work on mentally during the week. I have 3 more days in this season to try the send, and two of those will have to be back to back without a rest day - not ideal. The weather isn't doing me any favors, but this coming weekend the high is in the mid-70s, instead of the high 80s, so I'm hoping it doesn't change.
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Post by jetjackson on Dec 11, 2018 0:05:01 GMT -7
Unfortunately that is the weather forecast for the next week. The Tuesday night at the end I fly up to Queensland for Christmas until the new year. I may get a session in on Sunday afternoon - the weather is showing clear - but at this stage, it's not looking promising. I was going to take a break over the new year, but I'm thinking that I might throw in a hangboard session and a couple of bouldering sessions over the Christmas break, while I'm away, and then come back to TP for a shot on New Years Day, and the following weekend. If it doesn't go down by then, I'll park it and do another 4 month training cycle, and get back on it late March, early April, when the weather comes good again. I think at this point, if I can't get it done in the next few weeks, the strength from my last hangboard cycle will have faded a bit too much.
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Post by jetjackson on Jan 12, 2019 19:33:43 GMT -7
So as per the last post, the end of my season was basically hampered by weather.
I had my gear left on the route and went to get it back yesterday - I thought I'd have a crack at an RP burn anyway, and although making a couple of beta errors, I still got to my last highpoint - I feel pretty good about that, given that I'd only had a day rest since an ARC session.
I hadn't actually hang dogged the entire route though, I'd pretty much gone to the last bolt, and figured I'd only run out the final section on RP burn. Anyway, I did that section yesterday, and I think that might be a lesson learned for me, that with the RP burn I need all the psychological help I can get. i.e. that I don't have the weight of an un-led runout section at the top.
Anyway, it's on hold now, as summer is getting hotter every weekend here now, and I won't be able to get back on to it until mid to late March.
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Post by jetjackson on Apr 7, 2019 4:33:54 GMT -7
Saturday we had a late start and drove the 3 hours to get to the crag where Touchstone is. I wanted the extra sleep - I find that early starts at 6am just means I get less sleep and don't feel that great when I get there. The route goes into the shade about midday, so no point getting there too early. After arriving, I warmed up by pulling past the crux and putting the draws on, going bolt to bolt and just remembering where the holds were and getting my head in the game. I got to the final run-out to the chains though - a section I'd only led once before. It requires some very delicate footwork quite a bit above the bolt, where you risk a clanging fall back into a corner. I tried twice to do it and kept messing up the footwork, down-climbing and then resting. I couldn't get my head into it to run it out to the chains - I was feeling mentally drained, so I just lowered off the final draw. Went and sat down and ate some food, was feeling pretty dejected - thinking that I've prioritized strength etc. too much and my mental game was still down. I just felt mentally drained. Ate some snacks with the wife and just chatted for a bit. Was saying that I'd just leave the gear on and come back next weekend when I felt better. Decided that this weekend would just be to get back on the route and dial in the moves a bit more and try and practice the finish to get over the mental block. I put on my harness and threw a couple of draws on in case I could get to the top. I really just wanted to link to the clip above the second crux. I get on, and the start crux, maybe V6/7, feels easier than it ever has - even though I haven't done it for about 3 months. I nail the feet on it, and get into the first rest feeling really good - heart rate only slightly elevated. Then I visualized finishing the route while I was on the rest - this was a tip that someone I interviewed for a podcast gave me. I roll through the next section to the rest below the redpoint crux where I have fallen every other time. I feel better and more rested there than I have at any point before, which gives me confidence. I get the heart rate low, and I had already decided that the way I was going to approach the RP crux this time, was with a low level of arousal than what I had in the past. I have no issue bringing the arousal level up for power moves etc. and I think that in the past I was bringing it to 9/10, when this section really only needs 5 or 6. So this time I went into it with slower breathing, and 'just enough' arousal. I get to the mono-ish pinch and feel good, and then get the next crimp... from here on in, I'm shitting myself, and kind of on auto-pilot, because I know here if I fall I'll fall a good 20-30 foot. I get through to the rest below the techy stemming corner - I'm stoked to just be higher than where I have in the past. I calm down, and then just push into the corner - probably only 5.11+ climbing, but very tiny feet that you could slip off if not careful. I get to the last draw before the chains and clip in. I've only led this section once before. I decide that I'm either clipping the chains, or taking the ride of my life. I delicately move out of the corner and stand onto it as it becomes an arete, I get my right foot on an insecure foothold that I essentially have to do a 1 legged, leg press as I push up onto it, stand up, grab the clipping jug, and then shake as I get the draw onto the chain and clip the rope in... I think everyone in the valley heard me yell out. So stoked! Thanks again to all the advice that you all give here regularly! youtu.be/Aetk2FJNCmQI'll post a bit of a write up on the lessons I've learnt through the process.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Apr 7, 2019 14:54:59 GMT -7
Yaa! Nice job dude! You looked totally solid on it. Clearly it helps to not care too much! How are you going to celebrate?
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Post by jetjackson on Apr 7, 2019 17:07:44 GMT -7
Yaa! Nice job dude! You looked totally solid on it. Clearly it helps to not care too much! How are you going to celebrate? I'm going to spray everyone down on the internet about my send Actually I had not thought that much about celebrating. TBH my long term goal was 8a, and was Eye of the Tiger, but unfortunately the access to that crag is currently closed due to access issues in the Grampians which you may have caught heed of. I'm project shopping for an inspiring route at the grade range that meets the other criteria of my strengths, accessibility and ease of working - actually there is a classic crimps route called Steps Ahead that was put up by Jean Marc Troussier at Araps that has easy access that I could rope solo quite easily (just need to learn to rope solo). Indeed, definitely helps not to care, although I think being super fresh off training and at the start of my season also helped. I hit new PBs on the hangboard in a season where I switched from 2 sets to the advanced 3 sets and cut my grips back to focus heavily on the FORGE SVDR (1st bump), Slopey Crimp and Full crimp. I did a micro-cycle that finished up just before the weekend, as I'm trying to extend my cycle into the end of May. I have a trip to the states for New River Gorge in a couple of weeks (I guess that's my celebration) and that's why I did the micro-cycle. The crazy thing was actually how physically easy it felt in the end - the real battle for me getting to the top was mental. It's been inspiring for me, as I honestly think that I still have a fair bit left in me to improve my climbing ability. I'm still gaining on grips on every hangboard cycle - no signs of plateau... I don't think that 5.14 is out of the realm of possibility, although it may be another 5-10 years away. I harbour a long term desire to climb Gullich's - Punks in the Gym, but I don't mention that to many people. Below is this seasons cycle - Yellow is ARC, Blue Strength, Purple Power, Orange PE, and the other colours I've used for where I've mixed sessions. The green is performance days outside.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Apr 7, 2019 19:58:55 GMT -7
Indeed, definitely helps not to care, ... The crazy thing was actually how physically easy it felt in the end - the real battle for me getting to the top was mental. It's been inspiring for me, as I honestly think that I still have a fair bit left in me to improve my climbing ability. I'm still gaining on grips on every hangboard cycle - no signs of plateau... I don't think that 5.14 is out of the realm of possibility, although it may be another 5-10 years away. Ya, that's not unusual. This illustrates how the mental challenge is often more overwhelming than the physical challenge of climbing near your limit (of course, if you can't overcome the physical challenge, then you never get to the point of facing the mental challenge). I found that hard to understand until I started trying longer-term projects. These days when I'm working a project I don't feel like the "game" has really started until I've more or less mastered the route physically--at that point the challenge is just beginning for me. But ya, physically I agree you still have a lot of potential!
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Post by cozisco on Apr 8, 2019 11:18:39 GMT -7
Congrats dude!! From the video, it looked physically easy for you too. That's definitely happened to me on some of my "hardest" sends.
Hope CliffCare is able to work out some sort of access so you can send Eye of the Tiger...
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