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Post by acmesalute76 on Oct 27, 2018 9:55:29 GMT -7
Assuming you are warmed up enough to not get flash pumped, is it worth trying to redpoint on your first go of the day when hanging the draws? Im not talking onsight, this is a project you have been working and are taking redpoint burns on. I’m projecting a climb that has a long pumpy section for 5 bolts going to the chains. It’s pretty hard for me and the extra seconds it takes hanging draws is obviously slightly more effort. But climbing bolt to bolt is extra effort too, right? I’m just wondering if I’m better off conserving energy to get the draws up or just going for it, knowing that it will be slightly harder because I have to hang draws.
I guess the real question is, have any of you sent a hard project on your first go while hanging draws? Or is it so rare that it’s a waste of energy to even try? I’m very new to redpointing and still working on dialing the process in.
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Post by Chris W on Oct 27, 2018 19:37:32 GMT -7
For all of my hardest redpoints, I've had to hang the draws first. I've done it by going bolt to bolt, or having someone else do it.
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mcd
New Member
Posts: 30
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Post by mcd on Oct 27, 2018 21:59:57 GMT -7
I have tried before, but I would echo what Chris said, all my best performances have had the draws hung already. Ideally you can have someone else hang them, but if not climb bolt to bolt as part of your warm up, then take a good long break before trying to send.
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Post by scojo on Oct 28, 2018 7:30:13 GMT -7
I usually try to redpoint even if I'm pretty sure the extra strain of carrying and hanging draws will make it much harder to get the send. I figure that I have to climb up there anyway - why waste a burn? Usually I don't send while hanging draws, but sometimes I get lucky .
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Post by acmesalute76 on Oct 29, 2018 18:37:32 GMT -7
So today I got on my project, and after hanging out to clip the first draw in the hard section, decided to not try and redpoint while hanging draws. It worked out because I sent next go! Going bolt to bolt was also a benefit as a little extra warmup, and a chance to refresh the beta. And having the draws up was a huge advantage on this route.
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Post by RobF on Nov 1, 2018 9:29:21 GMT -7
Nice one. Well done.
I always redpoint on things that are slightly too hard for current ability so unlikely to fluke it first go.
My top tip is always climb with someone who is slightly better than you...
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Post by acmesalute76 on Nov 2, 2018 21:42:03 GMT -7
Sounds like consensus is to let someone else hang the draws for you!
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Post by RobF on Nov 4, 2018 1:46:33 GMT -7
It really does depend on the crag and the climb.
Sometimes it helps to do an easier route nearby and traverse or pendulum in high up. Harder routes bolted ground up often have the bolts so close together so can french free through the steep bits. Clip sticks are helpful for up to 3 or 4 bolts at a time / sometimes pulling up and hanging on the second or third bolt can give you futher reach. On occasion I've sat on a belay and used a stick clip to thread a different belay horizontally away with a second rope. If you have a route with an easy bit and a hard bit just lap the easy bit a few times as a warm up.
Sure those well versed in the dark art of redpointing have many more examples...
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