Post by Jure on Jun 17, 2018 3:00:11 GMT -7
Hi!
I would like to ask Mark or Mike about multi year projecting. From what I read in your book and internet I got a feeling that you know a thing or two about multi year projects. I usually climb something like 10 routes from 5.13a to 5.13d in a year. I only climb in 5.13 range from march to august, other months I rarely climb and send like 2-5 5.12 routes a month due to work and family. Yesterday i tried one of the life goals list route. It's an 8c+ or 5.14c. It has 20m of 5.13d which I found it in my style and I could do it in next 10-20 tries. Directly after that there is a boulder in v9/v10 range that also suits my style but I strugled to make individual moves. But I find it possible to link it in next 20 tries or more. After boulder there comes another 30 feet of hearth braking 5.12d of pure power endurance with open grip type of holds.
The main problem of the route is that it doesn't have any big holds or shake outs. It is a 95 feet long power endurance on small mostly positive holds with on my limit boulder problem on top of 5.13d (wich again is my at the moment limit). So I would ask you what do you think about training. Is it ok to start working on replicas in my next rctm cycle, or would it be beter to start working on my PE? It is woth to mention that after 1-1,5 minutes of hard PE I cannot realy pull hard so I find it difficult to imagine my self sending v9 on top of it. And even if I could the 5.12d right after would kill me.
I am really determined thou, so quting is not an option, I am 32 now and if I don't start now I never will. I just need advice on how to handle the training.
I had great succes with your aproach so thanks for all the hard work and thanks for putting it out there.
Jure
I would like to ask Mark or Mike about multi year projecting. From what I read in your book and internet I got a feeling that you know a thing or two about multi year projects. I usually climb something like 10 routes from 5.13a to 5.13d in a year. I only climb in 5.13 range from march to august, other months I rarely climb and send like 2-5 5.12 routes a month due to work and family. Yesterday i tried one of the life goals list route. It's an 8c+ or 5.14c. It has 20m of 5.13d which I found it in my style and I could do it in next 10-20 tries. Directly after that there is a boulder in v9/v10 range that also suits my style but I strugled to make individual moves. But I find it possible to link it in next 20 tries or more. After boulder there comes another 30 feet of hearth braking 5.12d of pure power endurance with open grip type of holds.
The main problem of the route is that it doesn't have any big holds or shake outs. It is a 95 feet long power endurance on small mostly positive holds with on my limit boulder problem on top of 5.13d (wich again is my at the moment limit). So I would ask you what do you think about training. Is it ok to start working on replicas in my next rctm cycle, or would it be beter to start working on my PE? It is woth to mention that after 1-1,5 minutes of hard PE I cannot realy pull hard so I find it difficult to imagine my self sending v9 on top of it. And even if I could the 5.12d right after would kill me.
I am really determined thou, so quting is not an option, I am 32 now and if I don't start now I never will. I just need advice on how to handle the training.
I had great succes with your aproach so thanks for all the hard work and thanks for putting it out there.
Jure
