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Post by hangboardsurvey on Mar 29, 2018 4:21:28 GMT -7
Hi everyone, Please fill out this survey to contribute to my market research about my new idea. At the moment I don't know if there is room for it in the market. Your responses could lead to the creation of a new hangboard that would allow for crack training to be more easily attainable. I think it could greatly benefit the climbing community to have a hangboard that requires no set up and adds the potential for crack climbing training. Thanks for your time! The link is below. www.surveymonkey.com/r/JH89KD9 |
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Post by jrblack on Mar 29, 2018 8:18:20 GMT -7
Hmm, I worry that crack-type grips for hangboarding would court injury. Not sure if this has been studied already, but seems really risky.
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Post by hangboardsurvey on Mar 29, 2018 11:56:43 GMT -7
I have never heard of training on crack grips aside from the wide boys. Why do you think it would be risky? Can't they be trained just like every other grip? Especially if your goal is a large multipitch trad climb. What is harmful about it to the human hand?
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Post by jrblack on Mar 29, 2018 21:25:22 GMT -7
Because the crack grips (imagine finger locking) are not ergonomically suited for high loads. I believe this has been noted by people smarter than I am... the Anderson brothers during a podcast or in their book, I think.
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RichF
New Member
Posts: 27 
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Post by RichF on Mar 30, 2018 11:39:57 GMT -7
Hangboardsurvey: Read this thread for a good discussion of why Mark doesn't think it's a good idea to hangboard on crack holds. In this thread, slimshaky makes an argument for crack holds for training. But I think he's mainly advocating for it to help with technique. This thread has a short discussion of standard hold types that are useful for building finger crack strength. |
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Post by RobF on Mar 30, 2018 14:23:48 GMT -7
Easily sorted. Just fix your regular hangboard vertically rather than horizontal...
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Post by hangboardsurvey on Mar 31, 2018 14:57:29 GMT -7
Thanks for the information. If I go ahead and design a hangboard that allows for crack climbing, the focus will not be finger locks, and if I sell this I will make sure to caution people against finger locking too often, alerting them to the risk of the injury to their CL. My goal is to free the Salathe on El Cap, but since I am a city slicker, I need this kind of thing to get to the point where I have a chance on that route. I suppose I will have to proceed with caution.
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