|
Post by Chris W on Apr 21, 2018 4:35:38 GMT -7
I did listen to that episode. That should be helpful in areas like creases. My current skin issue is the distal pad of the index finger. I'm experimenting with how to maximize my chance to learn the beta, work the route and redpoint the climb while dealing with holds that bite into my finger pads.
I'll try working it today with a taped finger, but if I can't grip the holds well enough with a taped finger...
|
|
|
Post by scojo on Apr 21, 2018 11:18:35 GMT -7
I really don't like having to tape my pads, but I've learned better ways of taping them so that the tape doesn't slip quite as easily - using a narrow width of tape, I start by taping around the joint, spiral down until I've covered the split and then respiral up to the joint again. Having the tape around the joint seems to keep the tape from slipping down my distal phalanx. Still, it can be helpful to replace the tape quite frequently to maintain good friction. I'll often remove the tape when I'm going for the send of course (depending on the severity of the split and the friction needed).
|
|
|
Post by jetjackson on Apr 22, 2018 22:24:20 GMT -7
With my recent blender in a finger injury I've been keeping my tip protect by putting on a textured bandaid around the tip of the finger, so running the length of the ringer from just below DIP around to palmar side of finger. I then rig up H tape, I split it with the H so that it has shorter ends, about half an inch on one end, and then about 3-4 inches on the other end (you tape up the small ends first, so you don't have to overlap the lengths on either end of the H). I make sure the connecting part - the horizontal on the H, so to speak, is very small, less than 1/4 inch - so unlike H taping an A3 pulley injury where you're trying to restrict the flexion of the dip, the H tape here just stops the bandaid from pulling up and off the finger, without significantly restricting flexion. Climbed about 8 pitches yesterday without having to replace the tape - was still good to go. No issues with full crimping on it. I think the textured band-aid may be a form of aid climbing though
|
|
|
Post by Chris W on Apr 23, 2018 3:42:41 GMT -7
I played around with it and taped the finger this Saturday. Skin had healed well, but was a bit thin still. Still wasn't able to do the move, but came really close, snagging the edge to exit from the business but didn't hang on. Got some alternative beta, but may still stick with my version. Managed to mildly tweak my middle finger on the mono pocket, likely a small collateral ligament strain, nothing bad. Have to figure out a way to warm up better out there.
Lots of interesting and new challenges on this climb
|
|
|
Post by Chris W on Jun 26, 2018 20:00:31 GMT -7
Just an update on training the mono:
I just finished my summer strength phase which was my second hangboard season training the middle finger mono. I was pleasantly surprised with how well that grip improved. While I improved my PB by 10 pounds, the main improvement was with the "feel" of the grip. The mono felt a bit delicate last season. This season, the grip felt solid and secure, and I didn't have to bail on any sets because the grip felt "tweaky".
|
|