quantifying a limit boulder session

[suprcrmpr]

I am following a modified for a full time working, father of two small kids-type non-linear training plan. It's loosely based on the principles in Bechtels latest book, and I'm trying to keep a log of time, number of problems, difficulty of problems etc as suggested in the book.



How do I quantify a limit session?



A limit boulder means trying a few hard moves, falling off, trying the same moves, falling off etc etc.



Bechtel proposes logging number of attempts and a V-number, near sends count but he also thinks falling off the start/after a move or two should not count. This should be used to calculate you session load, average difficulty and thereby quantifying your bouldering session.



This is where I get a bit confused. A limit boulder is so hard that I'm not bothering trying from the start because I know I will fall off the crux moves (and I should fall off - because if I send the problem isn't hard enough).



Should I cound doing 2 out of 10 moves as an attempt?



Maybe it's better to log time spent working problems, and scoring progress or how easy/hard it feels? Something like: "Boulder A - purple sloperproblem - 30* wall - 10 minutes - can link it in two parts - didnt do the crux move, but getting closer"



Anyone have any experience, suggestions etc?

[Chris W]

No good solution for you, but I've struggled with this from the beginning. All the other sessions are much easier to qualify/quantify. I tend to do my limit boulder sessions "by feel". I tend to ARC for about 10 minutes, then do a series of easier problems on the wall (I have my own wall, so they stay constant). I follow this by a set of harder problems on the wall, then work on my limit problem(s). I try to roughly follow the template in the RCTM.

Limit Bouldering Routine

Warm Up

Beginner Intermediate Advanced
Phase 1: Low Intensity ARC
• Rehearse Techniques
• Light, active stretching on wall 30 min 20 min 10 min
Phase 2: Warm-up Boulder Ladder
• 1-4 problems up to flash level
• No more than 3 attempts per problem
• Increase rest periods with difficulty 30 min
4 problems per grade 25 min
3 problems per grade 25 min
2 problems per grade
Phase 3: Hard Bouldering
• 3-4 problems just above flash level
• Problems should address areas of training emphasis
• 3-4 attempts per problem 30 min
3 problems 30 min
4 problems 25 min
3 problems

Limit Bouldering

Beginner Intermediate Advanced
• 2-4 realistic problems
• Feature 1 or 2 powerful moves that you cannot do in a single session of work
• Dynamic cruxes low to the ground
• 4-5 quality attempts per problem
• Extremely high intensity and arousal
• 2-5 minutes rest between attempts, 5-10 minutes rest between problems 0 min
0 problems 30 min
2 problems 60 min
4 problems


OK, well that didn't quite cut and paste the way I wanted it to, but it's in the book in the limit bouldering section.

[MarkAnderson]

I generally record which problems I sent/attempted. If I didn't send, I'll note the amount of time I spenting working it and/or any significant progress. Here's a relatively detailed example:

"Insanely good! Crushed LBing and Campus. Started at about 11am, std w/u then flashed* red/white v9, green/yellow V10, Monkeysock V11. No funny business. It's not so much that I flashed those, as the fact that they were all trivial. Monkey sock was totally in control, with lots of futzing around and I never got the slightest pump. Even the finish move was easy. After that worked FAs, OLS'd Star Wars (V9 or 10?) and Yellow/Blue (V8?). Did Purple/lime (V11?) after working crux section a bit. AFter that worked Blue/Red diamond proj for about 5 minutes, stuck first crx move after ~ 4 tries. Should be do-able this season. Total 65 min. Campused 40 min. Quit a bit "early" cause I had done so much already. Did 1-5-8 LL&R and 1-4.5-8 LL. LL did everything 1st try up to 1-5-8, which I think took 2 tries. LR was much harder. touched 1-5-8.5 LL on last set, but wasn't close so felt I should save it for later. Did 3x SEs. Feeling hella strong!"

[*When I use the term "flashed" in this context, I mean I did it the first time I tried it that season. So it's more like a "DejaVu" flash, although in many cases I know the moves on a conscious level. Think of it like a send of a problem that has not be recently rehearsed.]

Obviously it helps that I'm climbing on a home wall, where I know what "Monkeysock V11" is, and I know that problem will be there until I die and my grandchildren bulldoze the Lazy H.  You might want to be more descriptive if you're climbing in a commercial gym or frequently stripping your home wall.

[Chris W]

At least now I know I'm not the only one who describes my problems that way, only instead of "Monkeysock" I have purple owl, the blue problem, palm tree, and the mustache project.

None of mine are graded though, since I have no idea what bouldering grades I can climb.

[suprcrmpr]

Alright.. sounds like I'm worrying a bit too much.

Anecdotal notes are fine.. screw the points average for limit sessions.