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Post by Charlie S on Sept 22, 2015 19:00:49 GMT -7
About 1 week into the performance phase. Unfortunately, weather conditions and my intermediate goal route are not lining up. However, I was able to find a similar route (both in terms of length and pace, except 1 is trad and 1 is sport; the pace includes time to place gear). Got the redpoint of Stop That Terrain, 5.12b, on my 8th try! ( www.youtube.com/watch?v=1BeeKxTeYG4&feature=youtu.be) What's interesting is that my successful redpoint burn was almost twice as fast as all other attempts. Maybe it was the thunder? A week later, I got my second 5.12b at 4 tries. Onsighted a cerebral 5.11a (trad). RPed an 18-bolt 5.11c (She's the Bosch in City of Rocks; it's so good!). Next weekend is another trip up to City of Rocks and hoping to at least get some good beta burns on some harder cracks. This training thing and its benefits are addicting! |
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erk
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Post by erk on Sept 25, 2015 12:07:01 GMT -7
Thanks Anderson Bros!
For whatever reason I was able to get to V10 without any real training. I just surrounded myself with strong climbers and tried to learn everything I could from them. It's been a year and half since I did my first V10 and for whatever reason I got totally shutdown on every V11 I tried. I am now in the middle of my second cycle of the the program and planned it around my trip. Not only do I feel wicked strong, but it all came in as scheduled and on time. I'm approaching the end of my two week trip and the other day I just did my first V11! Thanks again for sharing the program and keeping the conversation going.
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Post by tedwelser on Sept 28, 2015 13:05:39 GMT -7
I had a good "pre-season" trip this weekend at the Red. We climbed at Left Flank and Military, and I revisited some old favorites. Saturday was a bit wet, but I got on Mercy the Huff (12b), and hung the draws to relearn my moves and chalk and brush the upper holds. I put in a good redpoint attempt, but I was tired at the cruxy bit near the end and fell. I got on Dinosaur (12d) on TR to work the cruxes from the top down, but did not figure out my beta for the heinous crimp section before my skin started to wear thin.
The next day I focused on Gung Ho (12b) and I was psyched to send it second try (in my current era of climbing). I brought full intensity for the send, which is my new profile pic, courtesy of Dustin Moore who kindly took the time to jug into position for some great photos.
I still have a couple power workouts to go, and will start PE next week, so I am happy to see that I am climbing stronger than I was during my peak of spring season. I am really thankful for the RCTM approach and the sense of understanding I gain about fluctuations in performance and the security I get from being able to see my progress in all the constituent elements of training performance.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Sept 28, 2015 14:16:29 GMT -7
Awesome profile Pic Ted!
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Post by tedwelser on Sept 28, 2015 16:42:39 GMT -7
Thanks! Dustin took several more, but this one really captures the aggro moment. It is hard to tell from the small photo but I am rocking my friends Trango 9.4 and my pair of decades old Lasers. |
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Post by daustin on Sept 28, 2015 16:48:03 GMT -7
Nice, Ted! Post the full size pics for us!!!
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Post by tedwelser on Sept 28, 2015 19:37:32 GMT -7
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Post by rob on Sept 29, 2015 5:09:33 GMT -7
Awesome photos Ted! Thanks for sharing.
You look like you put everything into it, congrats on the successful trip.
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LeeH
New Member
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Post by LeeH on Oct 5, 2015 11:29:24 GMT -7
Hey everyone, my name is Lee (since that's not so obvious from my forum name). So this is my first season using the plan. I've been following the sample beginner's plan in the book almost to the T (although, I've been very lazy on the supplemental strength, which I badly need since I suck at pullups and pretty much anything that requires shoulder strength). I've been stuck in the 5.10s for about 5 years now. I've been plagued by injuries from mountain biking over the past year (sprained wrist+hairline fracture on a metacarpal last September and then a type 3 AC separation in January), and I've finally decided to stop messing around on the mountain bike and start taking climbing seriously. Anyway, I've been having a blast with the beginner's plan, and it's absurd how much more confident I am on my grip strength and movements (thanks to the strength phase, the mileage during the base phase, and power/power endurance phases).
I just did my first weak attempt at a performance day. My first goal project is a 90' 5.10d, "Areto Bolto Del Diablo" in Diablo Canyon near Santa Fe, NM...but we got rained out of that area (thanks to wet lichen) and moved to another wall. I instead made my first real performance send a flash attempt on Grape Ape (150' 5.10c) and managed to make the OS without much of a problem (besides a really really dry mouth from the crux at the top getting my adrenaline flowing). Previous to the training plan, my hardest OSs were at best 5.9, and my hardest RP was a slabby 45' 5.10c (that took 3 tries). I think it's awesome how I now know how hard I can push my limits. I know how long I can hold on to specific hold types, and I have a really good feeling of how my grip strength works when I start feeling pumped. Before this, any time I'd get a pump going I would have no problem quitting. I'm super excited for the next few weeks when I'll put in some serious attempts (hopefully I'll find somewhere less rainy, which shouldn't be impossible in NM), and I'm very optimistic I will finally break into 5.11 in a week or two.
edit:
I made an attempt on Areto Bolto del Diablo on Friday, and took a fall only 15 feet from the chains, I only fell because I didn't see an important foot. I worked out the beta and I'll get it next time. I went to Enchanted Tower on Monday and made my first ever attempt at a 5.11a/b (Poison Apple), and got it on the second try! I actually thought I was going to flash it, but I messed up the feet right after I clipped the last draw. Seems like I'm going to need to improve my footwork even more next season, and I'm excited.
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tks
New Member
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Post by tks on Oct 12, 2015 12:11:20 GMT -7
Mike & Mark, I'd like to add my thanks as well. This weekend I finally sent a goal that I've been working on for over a year. I first got on this climb in the spring of 2014: www.mountainproject.com/v/intimidation/105946991The first pitch is the crux pitch, and I was not able to protect the lower crux, much less climb it cleanly last spring. I tried again last fall but still couldn't lock off on the pinch at the lower crux. This winter and this spring i ran through two cycles of the Trad / Big Wall program, and could feel the improvement in my pinch grip. I finally got another chance on this route on saturday, and pulled right through the crux. Thanks again! |
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Post by callen2 on Oct 12, 2015 18:04:36 GMT -7
I guess this is the send train hotline. So I got this book for my birthday in May and have taken it all to heart lowered my weight followed my first seasonal plan, keeping it simple and using the beginner workouts to not hurt myself. The first week of the performance phase was a wash down here in the south, this weekend though, I was able to send my goal within three tries, True Grit, in the Grayson Highlands I was also able to clean up and finish another problem well. The first season is already such a confidence boost, sent everything from a 0-5 all yesterday.
Thank you!!!
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Post by daustin on Oct 19, 2015 13:06:26 GMT -7
This has been a tough year for me in terms of outdoor climbing -- travel for work and other commitments has prevented me from getting outside much at all the entire year. I've been able to maintain pretty good compliance to my training program, with some modifications to accommodate my travel, but it's been a challenge to keep the motivation high when I haven't had much of a chance to actually get outside and see how much my training has or hasn't paid off.
I just got back from my first real climbing trip of the year, which was a few days of bouldering in Joe's Valley and LCC. I haven't bouldered outdoors much at all for ~3 years due to ankle injuries, so I was not really sure what to expect with this trip. I can fairly consistently send V6 in the gym after a few tries, and maybe the occasional V7; adjusting for climbing on real rock, I was hoping I'd send a V5 outdoors and maybe flash a V4.
Happy to report that it really feels like the training paid off: on the first day I was able to put down a V6 after a few tries (Wills A Fire, hot damn what a line), then send a V5 that is my anti-style (Kill By Numbers), and flash a V4. Next day I came close on a powerful V7 (Big Boy), and on the last day, which almost wasn't a climbing day because we were feeling so wrecked, was able to send a really cool V4 in LCC (Tequila Sunset). Overall, I felt like I outperformed my own expectations, which was really nice and feels like a testament to sticking to the training program especially given how long it's been since I've put on a try-hard face for outdoor bouldering.
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Post by yogicleo1 on Oct 25, 2015 12:01:40 GMT -7
Hey all! It's been quite inspirational to read all of these success stories! Well done! The summer out here in central OR has been lingering longer than expected, but as of yesterday, FALL IS HERE!!! SMITH ROCKS Day 1: Temps were looking promising, until the sun came out. It seemed that all of my projects were east facing, and heating up. Still, I decided to stick to some form of routine and hung out in the aggro gully. Warmed up on Toxic (11c) a few times, hopped on the Quickening (12c) for a double send of that. Day 2: Same same with the temps and sun. Though, since it was a weekend...EVERYTHING WAS SWAMPED! I took my sweet time with my warm-up on the Quickening. Then, headed over to the Shipwreck gully. Went up More Sandy than Kevin (11a) and hung draws on Liquid Jade (12a/b) as I was lowered, (has anyone tried to climb that thing while hanging draws?! holy cow!?) and went for a RP and had to hang once. Went over to Dreamin' (12a) and it was more of the same. Pitched off at the second roof bc my left hand wouldn't close for the side pull in the corner, going up for the jug. (la *sigh*) Day 3: Had some climbing partners bail so I was reduced to mooching belays from whoever I could. After a top rope burn to collect draws from Overboard (11c), I headed over to the Dreamin' area where I met up with some ladies who were also working Dreamin' (I had left my draws up for motivation to send). Unfortunately, they were packing up and heading down to Heresy (11c...d if its in the sun :-O) which we all climbed. "A" left for work and "M" and I headed over to Shipwreck for another More Sandy...and one hang on Liquid Jade. It wasn't looking like a promising season...until... Day 4: The first REAL day of Fall weather was here. Sending something was in the air  Started off warming up on Cool Ranch (11b) and then did a smooth and easy warm up on Taco Chips (13a) while taking after every two bolts. A refresher and a decent warm up if you approach it as such. Headed into the gully for another send of the Quickening (12c) which felt sooooo much easier that normal with the temps like they were. Not to mention, it's wired now. Then, it was off to Dreamin'! First go, fell at the second roof again, but had latched the jug and fell while walking my feet through to the rock over to freedom. After that, the girls from the other day had shown up. With the intention to take every few bolts to prep for the RP, Instead, "A" ran it to the top and snagged the send on her warm up! so cool! Then, "M" quickly followed suit with yet another top rope send! Again, so cool! Then came game time! The pressure was on, and I climbed the start with ease...pulled onto the slab...smoothed it to the second roof...latched the jug and clipped the chains! Finally, Dreamin' went down! The pressure to "send" is over and the psyche is high! I'm finding out that with each phase comes the challenge of switching gears. From not training to training...was tough. From hangboarding to power...was tough. From power to power endurance...was tough. And from power endurance to performance...was tough. Pulling it all together is a new difficulty and learning experience for me, but I'm quite happy with this first barrier that has been broken. Thanks for the inspiration and the psyche that this community brings! Cheers and happy crushing!  11-12-15 EDIT/UPDATE: Last week I snagged the send of "Chain Reaction" 12c and just yesterday I finally got the RP of "Taco Chips" 13a, my first of the grade!!! Training works baby! Cheers! |
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Post by MarkAnderson on Oct 26, 2015 11:09:11 GMT -7
Nice work, Dreamin' is such an impressive line; one of my very first 5.12s and I still remember it very well (mostly I remember the nut shriveling runouts).
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Post by EP on Oct 26, 2015 12:29:43 GMT -7
Hi-
I have posted in this thread a few times now. Once last fall after my bouldering season where I was able to achieve new personal bests, including my first v9. Then again in the spring when I sent my first 13a sport route along with many other 5.12 routes. I actually failed to send my summer trad objective, because I relapsed into old ways of not training, etc.
It is bouldering season for me again this year and over the weekend I sent my first v10 at Donner Summit in the Tahoe area, called the Real Deal. I am still in disbelief as to how well this program prepares me to go out and crush my projects and will follow the program for many years to come. When I started climbing v10 seemed completely unattainable. I have always struggled with bouldering and stagnated for many years at the v6/7 level. Most importantly, to echo what other people have said in the thread, I am also having more fun climbing than I ever have before.
I would also like to add that like the Anderson brothers I have a full time job and while I don't have a family my free time is at a premium and their program allow me to schedule in other life events. I was very nervous about actually committing to climb v10 because I never thought I could. But before the training season I decided to grow a pair and go for it because this was a significant accomplishment and if I wasn't going to step up to it now I maybe never would. I also added some additional training workouts to the Anderson's routines to address specific weaknesses I had. I added 2 more workouts during the strength phase, which looked something like this:
Day 1 Morning: Hangboard
Day 1 Night: Pull Up/Lock Offs
Day 2 Morning: Weightroom workout involving a few pushing/chest exercises, bicep curls, and deadlift
Day 3: Rest
My weight room session took about 1 hour. The first move of the boulder problem is very burly and requires bicep/core strength to pull off an undercling. There are no beta tricks around the fact you have to just pull hard.
The bottom line is if you follow the program, it works! My bouldering season isn't over yet and I can't wait to see what else I do. In the future I plan on focusing more on rope climbing objectives.
Thanks Anderson brothers!
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Started off warming up on Cool Ranch (11b) and then did a smooth and easy warm up on Taco Chips (13a) while taking after every two bolts. A refresher and a decent warm up if you approach it as such. Headed into the gully for another send of the Quickening (12c) which felt sooooo much easier that normal with the temps like they were. Not to mention, it's wired now. Then, it was off to Dreamin'! First go, fell at the second roof again, but had latched the jug and fell while walking my feet through to the rock over to freedom. After that, the girls from the other day had shown up. With the intention to take every few bolts to prep for the RP, Instead, "A" ran it to the top and snagged the send on her warm up! 