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Post by erick on Jan 3, 2018 8:21:14 GMT -7
2018 has settled in now so what are your goals for the year? I know some research says speaking goals is bad but it gets me excited. Here are mine related to climbing.
1. I want to climb 75 days outside this year. That may not seem like much but I think I only climbed outside around 25 days last year. I have also tended to just skip the OM days at the beginning of a cycle cause of business and I want to change that.
2. I want to tag a second 13a and my first 13b. I'm still looking at routes to pick for these goals, I have several options to narrow down.
3. I have several movement patterns I want to work on. I have a hard time moveing when my two arms are stretched really wide and underclings with my right arm also need work.
4. Mobility and antagonist work twice a week
5. Finish my home gym and write the tension board review for you all. I should be able to get this one done pretty quickly π
i think that's probably enough, what are yours?
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Post by James_E on Jan 3, 2018 11:56:37 GMT -7
I'm starting a year-long road trip from Seattle to Patagonia in a few weeks so I'm working on general fitness, with a focus on the styles of climbing found throughout most of Mexico. Mostly right now that involves losing 8-10 pounds as I've been really bad this fall. I don't have any specific goals but I'm hoping to consolidate at the 5.13- range, and hopefully push into some harder 5.13s. That might be ambitious considering the style of climbing in much of Mexico is very different than here in the Northwest. Think huge steep caves with tufas and stalactites. I'm shit at pinches so I'm trying to work those a bit more.
Other than that I'm looking forward to having time to improve my flexibility and focus on skill development on a wide range of rock types.
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Post by aikibujin on Jan 3, 2018 14:24:05 GMT -7
I'm not very good at setting long term goals, so I like to set short term goals. My current goal: send my first 13a. Hopefully that won't take up the whole year.
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Post by jetjackson on Jan 3, 2018 15:31:17 GMT -7
Copy pasted from r/climberharder.
β More than 50 days outside (In 2017 I did 38)
β Climb an 18 trad route
β Climb a V7 boulder problem outdoors
β Fill my sport route pyramid exponentially up to 27. (i.e. 1Γ17 (0), 2Γ26 (1), 4Γ25 (1), 8Γ24 (4), 16Γ23 (12), 32Γ22 (21) β current qty in brackets)
β Climb a 3 pitch, multi-pitch route.
β Average antagonist training 2 times per week.
β Reduce time injured to 6 weeks across the year. (2017 was approx. 14 weeks)
Erick - looks like we have the same antagonist goal and a similar outdoors goal. Just out of curiosity, do you have standard antagonist exercises you are going to try and work in? Are they pre-hab, or dealing with existing issue?
James - that sounds incredible! Enjoy!
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Post by tetrault on Jan 3, 2018 17:12:18 GMT -7
Figure out how to work in enough quality training time to continue to improve as a climber but not suck as a new father/old husband. Then maybe start climbing outside again at some point! ...if only I had a private office at work for mounting a hangboard
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Post by erick on Jan 3, 2018 22:38:16 GMT -7
Erick - looks like we have the same antagonist goal and a similar outdoors goal. Just out of curiosity, do you have standard antagonist exercises you are going to try and work in? Are they pre-hab, or dealing with existing issue? Pre-hab mostly, I have simple routine I got from a local PT the increase my ROM and do a little strengthening + Yoga
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Post by Chris W on Jan 4, 2018 3:14:22 GMT -7
Figure out how to work in enough quality training time to continue to improve as a climber but not suck as a new father/old husband. Then maybe start climbing outside again at some point! ...if only I had a private office at work for mounting a hangboard I do that by training at home, getting up really early when I work morning shifts and going to bed really early. I also sacrifice climbing time outdoors during non-performance climbing phases, so it's a juggling act. When my kids get older (6, 4, 2 and new) it should be easier to get away to climb outdoors more, but as it is I rarely miss a training session. I can try to help you figure out a plan if you have a specific problem.
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Post by Charlie S on Jan 6, 2018 11:11:34 GMT -7
My goal is 5.13a. I've two-hung the current sport project. And then other subjective goals like making progress on 5.12 trad.
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Post by daustin on Jan 6, 2018 13:34:39 GMT -7
Figure out how to work in enough quality training time to continue to improve as a climber but not suck as a new father/old husband. Then maybe start climbing outside again at some point! ...if only I had a private office at work for mounting a hangboard Ditto! The only goal I really have my eyes on at this point is actually getting around to getting a home wall built in the backyard...
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Post by tetrault on Jan 7, 2018 8:09:13 GMT -7
Ditto! The only goal I really have my eyes on at this point is actually getting around to getting a home wall built in the backyard... Get ready to prep all your tools and materials, hammer in 1 nail and then have to rush inside for a baby βemergencyβ. Then repeat.
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Post by Charlie S on Jan 7, 2018 9:13:35 GMT -7
Ditto! The only goal I really have my eyes on at this point is actually getting around to getting a home wall built in the backyard... Might I also suggest self-tapping screws with star drives. Construction went WAY faster and I stripped far fewer screws when compared to traditional Phillips head.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jan 7, 2018 11:51:29 GMT -7
Ditto! The only goal I really have my eyes on at this point is actually getting around to getting a home wall built in the backyard... Might I also suggest self-tapping screws with star drives. Construction went WAY faster and I stripped far fewer screws when compared to traditional Phillips head. ..and if you want to go next level, use an impact driver instead of a regular drill.
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Post by daustin on Jan 7, 2018 12:06:02 GMT -7
Thanks for the tips, all. The most likely outcome is that Iβll use a general contractor to construct the wall, as I am not very handy. But that still leaves me with some very tough, important decisions β like, do I go for a moonboard, a Tension board, or wait for the new Kilter board???
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Post by jetjackson on Jan 7, 2018 17:29:18 GMT -7
Might I also suggest self-tapping screws with star drives. Construction went WAY faster and I stripped far fewer screws when compared to traditional Phillips head. ..and if you want to go next level, use an impact driver instead of a regular drill. You think an impact driver would help that much? I was fine with my 20 volt Dewalt on the recent build. I chose square heads, self-tapping. Phillips head screws suck - they strip so much easier.
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Post by Chris W on Jan 7, 2018 20:39:20 GMT -7
An impact driver makes a HUGE difference. At least in my not so humble opinion...
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