richb
Junior Member
Posts: 55
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Post by richb on Oct 27, 2017 8:09:45 GMT -7
Tell me about it. I had a nasty head cold all last week, then my son got it. Just praying my wife doesn't follow suit. Rocktober turned into Coughtober (Snotober?) Hope you stay healthy!
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Post by Chris W on Oct 31, 2017 11:09:50 GMT -7
WooHooo!!! Sent my project!! The Streak 13a!!
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Post by aikibujin on Oct 31, 2017 11:55:10 GMT -7
Congrats! Nice work. But I have to say, I think I correctly predicted this outcome a couple of posts ago!
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Post by jonfrisby on Oct 31, 2017 12:16:31 GMT -7
it really just sound like you will send in better conditions. A small tripod can be useful for shooting video beta. Woohoo - is there vid?
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Post by MarkAnderson on Oct 31, 2017 12:35:37 GMT -7
Awesome!!!! I knew you would. Perfect timing too, Halloween Candy goes on clearance in a few hours
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Post by Chris W on Oct 31, 2017 17:21:32 GMT -7
Congrats! Nice work. But I have to say, I think I correctly predicted this outcome a couple of posts ago! Yeah, you're right. My wife said the same thing, something along the lines of "I knew you would". Still, it was a total head game. I really invested a lot of time and work and energy and emotion into the thing. I did a PE workout on Friday and then "rested" (unless you count work) Saturday, Sunday and Monday. My PE continued to improved, and I almost completed all of my sets on my LBC for the workout. My season is basically done now. I may be able to get in a few more "fun" days, but baby #4 is due on November 23rd, so in another week or two I won't be willing to drive the hour away from home to get to the crag.
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Post by Chris W on Nov 2, 2017 4:44:35 GMT -7
I have a question for you, but I'll save it for when your season's over. What was your question?
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 2, 2017 8:38:48 GMT -7
Oh ya. Fortunately it all worked out, or else this question would be pretty harsh (hence not asking until now): Why did you plan a trip to the New in the middle of your first-5.13-redpoint-campaign?
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Post by Chris W on Nov 2, 2017 9:33:47 GMT -7
Ha! I was asking myself the same question when I hadn't sent before I left. The answer is actually a bit complicated. Ironically, the break from the route probably helped me send it.
Basically, I love climbing. I love getting outdoors and climbing lots of routes. I love the New River Gorge and the gorgeous rock in it. I love the variety of routes and styles out there. Because of my work, where I work most holidays, over half of all weekends and lots of evenings, my only real chance to get out to the NRG or any other non-local climbing area is if I take vacation time to do it. Also, I have a large and young family, with the oldest having just turned 6 and baby number 4 due in 3 weeks. Thus, I usually schedule a week in the fall and a week in the spring to get out and have fun. The whole crew comes with me, because my wife would kill me if I went by myself.
My local route climbing options are pretty limited (much more bouldering options, but I don't like it as much as being on the rope). I love my local crag, but the best climbs are all on one wall, The Big Wall (clever name, right?). There is another close crag, Safe Harbor, which I haven't explored, but I'm not sure the route styles there match up too well with my long term goals. Most of the routes there also reportedly get all sun, all the time, so performance climbing there is probably best done in the dead of winter.
Ultimately, the reason I train so hard is to get strong enough to climb lots of routes and have more fun. The stronger I am, the more routes I have available to climb. Each goal route is a bit of a stepping stone and measure of progress, as opposed to an end in itself. When I was planning for my fall season, I thought about skipping the trip to the New to focus more on The Streak, 13a (my now completed project), but ultimately decided that doing so would be taking away from my true objective, which was to get strong and climb lots of cool fun stuff. It's probably not the best way for me to send a project, but I was prepared for that. It's a good thing I made that plan when I wasn't in the thick of things, because this project took me down a mental mind-funk I haven't experienced before.
Also, I could see from my training logs that I had sent projects after coming back from trips. When I sent Hinterland, I developed pneumonia, went to the New after recovering, and still came back and sent my project. I knew it was possible. My PE actually improved after the trip as well, with a season best LBC session when I got home.
That's a bit of a rambling answer...
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 2, 2017 14:56:19 GMT -7
That's a good answer. At least you put a lot of thought into the decision, weighed the pros and cons, and did what you felt was best for you. Ironically, the break from the route probably helped me send it. I bet you would have sent The Streak sooner (on the calendar) had you just kept trying it. But in terms of anxiety and overcoming the tedium of visiting the same project over and over again, it can be really helpful to take a break and come back. Basically, I love climbing. I love getting outdoors and climbing lots of routes. I love... I felt this part really required a response. I've heard a lot of people over the years say they can't train because they just really love climbing...as if those of us who train don't! Dedication and commitment to training/performance is hard more so because of what you have to sacrifice for it, rather than the few hours here and there spent suffering on plastic. So I guess my point here is, that's awesome that you love climbing, so do I, and presumably all of us, but that's no excuse to abandon your project grasshopper! ... my only real chance to get out to the NRG or any other non-local climbing area is if I take vacation...Also, I have a large and young family...Thus, I usually schedule a week in the fall and a week in the spring to get out and have fun. I love to do this type of thing as well. Before I became obsessed with FAs I would schedule a 1-2 week trip to somewhere fun (NRG, RRG, Maple, Europe, etc) to end every Spring/Fall season. From a performance perspective, I recommend scheduling it for the very end of the season, unless some climb on the trip is the primary goal for your season. Ultimately, the reason I train so hard is to...have more fun. Millennials (SMH) [...and don't ask me what that stands for] Also, I could see from my training logs that I had sent projects after coming back from trips... I knew it was possible. My PE actually improved after the trip as well, with a season best LBC session when I got home. I'm really glad it worked out for you. I wouldn't assume that will always be the case though. This has worked in the past because you had a lot of margin to work with. As you get projects that are closer to your true limit, you'll want everything optimized (physical/technical/mental). Obviously I'm the king of retreating from projects and then returning to send them quickly, but I'm doing that after a full training cycle, so I know my power and fitness are near optimal when I return. YMMV, but for me, when I come back from a climbing vaca my power is shot for the season. That's a bit of a rambling answer... Yes. Yes it is.
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Post by Chris W on Nov 2, 2017 20:12:35 GMT -7
Yeah, you're probably right, I likely would have sent The Streak earlier had I stayed home. It was great to get out to the New though. I definitely put a lot of though into the decision on whether to stay or go, but I'm glad I went, which is easy to say now that I sent my project . I normally try to schedule the trips to correspond with the very end of my season, but it can be really hard to do that with my job. This year, I had to schedule the trip right smack in the middle of the performance phase, which made me nervous. Truth be told, I honestly thought I would send the route early in the PE phase, but I guess I misjudged that one... I didn't really feel like I was abandoning my project by going to the New, but I definitely felt the pull between my family and the climb. I try to include the kids and wife in the climbing whenever I can, but it really tugs at my heart strings when the kids see me load my gear in the car and cry because, for whatever reason that day, they can't go with me. I was all set to correct you and say that I wasn't a millennial because I was born in 1983, but google says that I actually am. Bummer. The other millennials at work told me what TL;DR means and SMH, and they also pointed out again that I am not cool. As far as working projects closer to my limit, that's a really good point, which I hadn't thought of. I'm wondering what my actual "limit" is. In the end, none of the moves on The Streak felt very hard, it was simply a matter of stringing them together. When I first tried the line in the spring though, I didn't think I could do all the moves. It will be interesting to see how my spring season goes. I'm going to try Flippin' The Bird, which is a short bouldery 13a/b/c. It's the next hard local line, and typically the next in line the local hard men focus on once they send The Streak. My understanding is that the hardest move is equal to or harder than the hardest move on Opposing Gravity 13c, which is currently the hardest line around.
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Post by aikibujin on Nov 2, 2017 21:12:38 GMT -7
The other millennials at work told me what TL;DR means and SMH, and they also pointed out again that I am not cool. You can SYH at them. Anyone who can send 5.13s is cool in my book!
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Post by Lundy on Nov 3, 2017 8:22:03 GMT -7
It will be interesting to see how my spring season goes. I'm going to try Flippin' The Bird, which is a short bouldery 13a/b/c. It's the next hard local line, and typically the next in line the local hard men focus on once they send The Streak. My understanding is that the hardest move is equal to or harder than the hardest move on Opposing Gravity 13c, which is currently the hardest line around. Chris - my fall got away from me quickly with a sick wife, sick kids, and multiple work trips (I'm on the road nearly the whole month of November). However, come late winter, when you're ready to get out again, I'd be psyched to connect, put in a few burns on The Streak, and get into Flippin the Bird or Opposing Gravity with you. As long as you don't mind climbing with an old man.
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Post by Chris W on Nov 3, 2017 13:12:02 GMT -7
Sure! There will probably be days in December and January that are warm enough to climb there without the screaming barfies. Those climbs don't get any ice on them.
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