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Post by daveholliday on Jul 23, 2017 19:07:24 GMT -7
i had a little bugaboo at wall of the 90s today (*) that will keep me off the rock for at least a couple of weeks. this was the start of the second week of my performance phase for the summer. i was supposed to have three or four more weeks for the phase including a trip to rifle in two weeks and a trip to tensleep in four weeks. the rifle trip is out the door.
my options as i see them are: (1) rest for a couple of weeks, ease back into leading (and hopefully feel refreshed), and try to get in some hard leads by the end of the phase or top-rope some hard routes if i can get partners to put up the rope. (2) rest for two or three weeks, and then start my next cycle (a week or two of arc-ing and then hangboarding and so on).
anyone on the program been in this situation? any advice? i kind of like the idea of resting, regrouping, and starting a new hangboard phase. summer is not my preferred climbing season anyway as i have a very low heat tolerance.
(*) i took a lead fall at the crux of wet dream, swung a little, and hit a rounded arete shin-first. i was agonizingly close to getting it; i tickled the jug pocket at the end of the crux but just couldn't hold it. anyway, i now have three staples and 11 stitches in my right shin. i apologize for the blood on the route and at the base.
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Post by Chris W on Jul 23, 2017 20:07:13 GMT -7
Is it just a flesh wound? If the injury is just skin deep, can you just wrap it to keep grit out and keep climbing?
If I had to truly take two weeks off in the middle of my performance phase, I'd probably just rest and start a fresh cycle in the fall.
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Post by daveholliday on Jul 23, 2017 21:05:42 GMT -7
Is it just a flesh wound? If the injury is just skin deep, can you just wrap it to keep grit out and keep climbing? If I had to truly take two weeks off in the middle of my performance phase, I'd probably just rest and start a fresh cycle in the fall. The wound was deep enough that fascia was exposed so it was more serious than a flesh wound. I really can't climb until the stitches and staples are removed.
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Post by jetjackson on Jul 24, 2017 4:38:32 GMT -7
Bummer mate, commiserations. Nothing worse than being at the start of performance and getting injured... still, sound like you were really going for it when it happened, not as bad as if you tripped on the sidewalk carrying groceries or something.
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Post by Chris W on Jul 24, 2017 5:11:49 GMT -7
If the fascia was exposed, but not damaged, and the leg feels OK, I (personally) would probably still climb on it (though I'm a little reckless/rebellious like that). It doesn't take much to expose the fascia, especially around the anterior tibia. You have skin, then subcutaneous tissue (fat) then fascia. Doctors will recommend the most conservative thing, which is not climbing. I would agree that not climbing is the safest thing.
Still, I'm with Jet. What an awesome way to get injured! You quite literally left your mark on the route, without doing any significant damage to yourself. I'd tell that story over a beer at the end of my performance phase.
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Post by climber511 on Jul 24, 2017 6:20:34 GMT -7
If you had to go to work at a physical job or not eat - what would you do?
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dsm
New Member
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Post by dsm on Jul 24, 2017 7:50:15 GMT -7
I think you should do option 1. Just climb with reduced expectations (sometimes reduced expectations are good for performance anyway). For me, mentally jumping into a new cycle without much of a performance phase would be really arduous. The performance is the funnest part, and keeps me psyched. And also your injury might heal faster than you think, or might be climeable sooner.
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Post by Jon on Jul 24, 2017 10:04:30 GMT -7
I would take a few days off, then do 3-4 hangboard workouts. That will keep your fingers strong and doing repeaters should keep some semblance of power endurance. Then as your leg heals, you can test your climbing to see if you can still get in a few worthwhile weeks in this performance phase. If not, you can do a full hangboard program, rest, then start your next cycle.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jul 24, 2017 14:06:19 GMT -7
You guys are hard core. I think both options are fine. If it were me I'd probably do option 2, considering where we are on the calendar, but if you have nothing pressing for the Fall, option 1 would work too. I wouldn't jump right back into climbing, but if I wanted to maintain my fitness I'd consider doing some hangboard workouts until my leg was ready to climb again.
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Post by aikibujin on Jul 27, 2017 5:55:05 GMT -7
(*) i took a lead fall at the crux of wet dream, swung a little, and hit a rounded arete shin-first. i was agonizingly close to getting it; i tickled the jug pocket at the end of the crux but just couldn't hold it. anyway, i now have three staples and 11 stitches in my right shin. i apologize for the blood on the route and at the base. Sorry to hear that! Did you get a particularly hard catch? I fell off at that exact spot myself (going for the jug pocket off to the left but didn't quite latch it), but I just swung into air beneath the overhang. I thought it was a pretty safe fall. I didn't even touch the arete on the right. In any case, hope for a speedy recovery! Personally, I would just recover fully before starting a new cycle. Maybe a little hangboarding to keep my strength. |
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Post by scojo on Jul 27, 2017 9:33:46 GMT -7
(*) i took a lead fall at the crux of wet dream, swung a little, and hit a rounded arete shin-first. i was agonizingly close to getting it; i tickled the jug pocket at the end of the crux but just couldn't hold it. anyway, i now have three staples and 11 stitches in my right shin. i apologize for the blood on the route and at the base. Sorry to hear that! Did you get a particularly hard catch? I fell off at that exact spot myself (going for the jug pocket off to the left but didn't quite latch it), but I just swung into air beneath the overhang. I thought it was a pretty safe fall. I didn't even touch the arete on the right. In any case, hope for a speedy recovery! Personally, I would just recover fully before starting a new cycle. Maybe a little hangboarding to keep my strength. I think my friend got a bit bruised up falling on the crux. I took a long fall at the same place, but luckily fell mostly into air. Sorry to hear you got hurt! I wouldn't worry too much about the blood. I think a lot of us have left a little bit of blood on that route... If I were in your spot, I would try to hangboard while your leg is healing. If you feel psyched after your leg feels good enough to climb on, I'd continue with the performance phase, but if there is no psych, then it would make more sense to start another cycle. |
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Post by daveholliday on Jul 28, 2017 15:20:39 GMT -7
(*) i took a lead fall at the crux of wet dream, swung a little, and hit a rounded arete shin-first. i was agonizingly close to getting it; i tickled the jug pocket at the end of the crux but just couldn't hold it. anyway, i now have three staples and 11 stitches in my right shin. i apologize for the blood on the route and at the base. Sorry to hear that! Did you get a particularly hard catch? I fell off at that exact spot myself (going for the jug pocket off to the left but didn't quite latch it), but I just swung into air beneath the overhang. I thought it was a pretty safe fall. I didn't even touch the arete on the right. In any case, hope for a speedy recovery! Personally, I would just recover fully before starting a new cycle. Maybe a little hangboarding to keep my strength. the catch was good. i took pretty much the same fall on my first attempt of the route that day. the main issue was that i was a bit up and left of the crux bolt when i fell; my beta, originally suggested by a friend, is a little different than what i see most people do. i get the ticked crimp straight up from the bolt, hand traverse left to an ok hold, match, get my feet up, and then go for the jug pocket with my right hand. i'll explore the straight-up beta when i get on the route again. the frustrating thing is that i felt great on the route that go; i nailed every sequence getting up to the crux and was fully confident that i would send. but i guess that's climbing. i'm leaning towards starting a new cycle after my leg recovers; i think i'd prefer to focus on getting ready for the fall sending season. for the curious, here's a picture of my "flesh wound" that i took at urgent care before it got stitched up; it's a little gross but not too bad in the grand scheme of things. daveholliday.smugmug.com/Tmp/n-kPskr4/i-RXqKVV7/A |
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Post by aikibujin on Aug 14, 2017 15:09:00 GMT -7
the main issue was that i was a bit up and left of the crux bolt when i fell; my beta, originally suggested by a friend, is a little different than what i see most people do. i get the ticked crimp straight up from the bolt, hand traverse left to an ok hold, match, get my feet up, and then go for the jug pocket with my right hand. i'll explore the straight-up beta when i get on the route again. I use the straight-up beta... I think, I've only seen one other person do it from the ground, so can't really see what they did. But I can see how your beta will put you further to the left and set you up to swing into the arête. Hope you're recovering well! I'm waiting for the weather to cool before I go back and try it again. |
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Post by daveholliday on Aug 18, 2018 15:00:54 GMT -7
Update: I sent the route a couple of weekends ago. I got the straight-up beta refined over a few outings over the last couple of months and sent on my second go of the day. For some reason, the crux didn't feel difficult when I sent; that seems to be a common experience for me on my hardest (non-onsight) sends.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Aug 19, 2018 17:59:56 GMT -7
Nice job Dave! Glad to hear you're back in one piece and back in the saddle!
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