Climbing routes after the power phase

[kader]

Hi,

I am currently in my bouldering performance phase. The strength phase showed mix results until i put a fan in front of my fingerboard. During my power phase, i couldn't match my campus PR mainly because i am 2.5-3kg heavier, but adding max hangs during the power phase has made quite of a difference in terms of finger strength. Also managed a one armer a couple of times.

Back on topic, after rather ok limit bouldering/performance bouldering sessions i tried to climb a 12a route (without any prior PE) but got shut down about 5 moves before the top each time. When i was a lead climber i climbed up to 12d-13a indoor, so i am quite frustrated right now as 12a were my warmup routes 3 years ago

i thought that the max finger strength would get me by easily through those base route... was i wrong?
I used to climb mostly with endurance back then
I had decent technique but now i kinda suck and have issues regulating my strength while climbing and get tense even when though all moves are way way under my limit.
Also i cannot try as hard as i used to in the past. I lost the eye of the tiger..

Am i paying for the lack of ARCing?
Would PE get me magically above 13a by changing a bit my energy system?

I have yet to find the magic formula to help me switch from bouldering to routes!

[Chris W]

I've always struggled with the first one or two workouts of each new phase. Typically, going from strength to power is one of the hardest transitions for me.

I would't worry too much. You're training in a different way when you move from a bouldering cycle to climbing a route. Also, climbing a 5.12 in the gym isn't the same as climbing a 5.12 outdoors.

During the summer and winter, I do a shortened "transitional" phase where I just focus on strength and power. I'll then take 1-2 weeks rest, and launch into a full spring or fall training season to climb routes. You could always try training through a whole cycle to get yourself back into route shape.

Regardless, I wouldn't judge your fitness based on one day climbing routes after going through a full bouldering cycle. 

[kader]

Thanks Chris
What does your shortened "transitional" phase look like?

[Chris W]

Spring Season ended May 7th. May 21st to June 16th Strength Phase, Day 1 HB, Day 2 SE, day 3 rest, repeat. June 17th to July 8th Power Phase, Day 1 Limit Boulder, Day 2 SE, Day 3 Rest, Day 4 Campus, Day 5 SE, Day 6 Rest, repeat. Rest after July 8th. July 16th Start training for the Fall season.

The best weather around here is spring and fall, with some good weather in the middle of the winter. If I aim for a performance phase for some of the best weather, that doesn't give me enough time for a full season in either the summer or the winter. Instead, I focus on developing strength and power, and hanging out with the family during the summer at the pool and the winter around the Christmas and Thanksgiving holidays. I would love to do a full winter season, but it would push my spring season into temperatures that are much warmer than I would like. I really don't like climbing (or doing anything) in hot and humid weather. Funny for a guy who grew up in the South.