Post by jetjackson on Jul 1, 2017 23:43:13 GMT -7
Hi Guys,
So my next project is to build a home woodie. I'm a renter, and it looks like it will be that way at least for the next decade or so, given the exorbitant prices of real estate in Melbourne, Australia, and my unwillingness to go into a 30 year mortgage for a $1M 2 bedroom town house. Austrailan landlords are not really okay with the idea of you building into the existing framework of their building, and so I have to come up with a freestanding solution that can be moved (albeit painstakingly) between houses. I've chewed over a whole bunch of designs and seem to be settling out on this cave style design that I've seen a couple of times.
Essentially, I want to build the woodie so that it takes up what would be a single car space in a typical Melbourne lock-up garage. The Australian standard for a lock up garage for a single vehicle is 3500x6000 and typically from 2700mm to 3000mm tall. I want to be able to fit it in this standard, and build it so that it can be torn down and moved every 2 years or so (hopefully we'll be moving less).
Here are some basic designs I've been working on today. It's a 2700x2590mm box that is 3600mm long - I could potentially go to 4200mm long on that to give me more width. It has a 15 degree and 30 degree wall. It does have a roof - although in my experience the roof isn't really great for training. To be honest, it's there to make the box, rather than anything else. The angle walls have kickers designed in at 250mm and 270mm respectively, which I would drop down as necessary if I need to drop the heigh of the entire box by 100mm or so.
I really want to use this for mostly arc'ing, and more difficult LB problems that mimic the things I will come across on technical climbing at the Arapiles. The 30 degree wall for circuits for PE and harder overhanging LB problems.
Running quick numbers on the timber required would be about $1050. About 24 square metres of wall space and I have ~230 holds at the moment - that makes about 9 holds per square metre - which should be plenty.
Reinforcement, my idea is to use steel angle brackets on the frame for reinforcement and to use steel fasteners, rather than wood screws, to hold the entire frame together. Then I'll use wood screws to screw the panels to the frame.
Keen to hear thoughts on the box - can anyone potentially see any issues. My biggest concern is whether or not I have left enough headroom with a 729mm wide roof - which is just over 2 foot.
Next concern - is 2700mm aka 8.8 feet, and 2400mm aka 7.87 foot enough travel on the angled walls? I'm 1830mm tall and my reach is 2300mm, so I'm at least a full body length with reach on each panel.
Bash-in vs. Screw in T-nuts?
Other question - do you use treated or untreated wood for this? Concern is that landlord would be bothered if I attracted termites into the house with untreated wood.
Below is my design and an example of what I'm trying to replicate.
So my next project is to build a home woodie. I'm a renter, and it looks like it will be that way at least for the next decade or so, given the exorbitant prices of real estate in Melbourne, Australia, and my unwillingness to go into a 30 year mortgage for a $1M 2 bedroom town house. Austrailan landlords are not really okay with the idea of you building into the existing framework of their building, and so I have to come up with a freestanding solution that can be moved (albeit painstakingly) between houses. I've chewed over a whole bunch of designs and seem to be settling out on this cave style design that I've seen a couple of times.
Essentially, I want to build the woodie so that it takes up what would be a single car space in a typical Melbourne lock-up garage. The Australian standard for a lock up garage for a single vehicle is 3500x6000 and typically from 2700mm to 3000mm tall. I want to be able to fit it in this standard, and build it so that it can be torn down and moved every 2 years or so (hopefully we'll be moving less).
Here are some basic designs I've been working on today. It's a 2700x2590mm box that is 3600mm long - I could potentially go to 4200mm long on that to give me more width. It has a 15 degree and 30 degree wall. It does have a roof - although in my experience the roof isn't really great for training. To be honest, it's there to make the box, rather than anything else. The angle walls have kickers designed in at 250mm and 270mm respectively, which I would drop down as necessary if I need to drop the heigh of the entire box by 100mm or so.
I really want to use this for mostly arc'ing, and more difficult LB problems that mimic the things I will come across on technical climbing at the Arapiles. The 30 degree wall for circuits for PE and harder overhanging LB problems.
Running quick numbers on the timber required would be about $1050. About 24 square metres of wall space and I have ~230 holds at the moment - that makes about 9 holds per square metre - which should be plenty.
Reinforcement, my idea is to use steel angle brackets on the frame for reinforcement and to use steel fasteners, rather than wood screws, to hold the entire frame together. Then I'll use wood screws to screw the panels to the frame.
Keen to hear thoughts on the box - can anyone potentially see any issues. My biggest concern is whether or not I have left enough headroom with a 729mm wide roof - which is just over 2 foot.
Next concern - is 2700mm aka 8.8 feet, and 2400mm aka 7.87 foot enough travel on the angled walls? I'm 1830mm tall and my reach is 2300mm, so I'm at least a full body length with reach on each panel.
Bash-in vs. Screw in T-nuts?
Other question - do you use treated or untreated wood for this? Concern is that landlord would be bothered if I attracted termites into the house with untreated wood.
Below is my design and an example of what I'm trying to replicate.