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Post by jrblack on Apr 1, 2018 8:32:43 GMT -7
Simple solution to the issue of having a big loop of slack when you clip up: have a second piece of rope for jugging on. I have a 20’ scrap of rope (from a trimmed lead line) I use for this. Tie a knot at the end of this piece of rope, and clip it to the highest bolt you can reach. Then jug up it with two jumars. Get to that bolt, go in direct with a daisy, detach jumars, clip it as high as you can (I try to go every other bolt), and repeat. Meanwhile, as you go up, you use the gri-gri and the regular lead/tr rope to self-belay in the typical manner. Because this is a separate system, you can give yourself a normal, safe belay the entire time. No big sketchy slack loops, no detaching from the gri gri. Use a dynamic rope. I suppose you do this same thing with the end of the climbing rope (ie, don't bring a second piece of rope). Just tie the end of your rope in a bight and put a biner on it, then clip up to each bolt with it. The problem I see with this (and your system) is that you'll have three biners in a hanger: the thing you jugged, going in direct, and the draw you're hanging. On severely overhanging terrain, your weight is on something 100% of the time, and it can be hard to unweight and transfer. I'm sure you get better with practice. There's a guy on MP saying he can get up pretty much any sport route in 5 minutes doing this stuff. Hard to imagine!
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