Redpoint attempts during PE phase

[Alex D]

So I noticed that the sample PE schedules include multiple days for redpoint attempts, either on bouldery or pumpy routes. If our project routes fit into either of these categories, does this mean we should be attempting to send the routes we were saving for the performance phase during the PE phase instead? Or should these redpoint attempts be on easier routes than our goal routes? I'm probably missing something, as the impression I got from the sample schedules is that the PE phase is just part of the performance phase... can someone help to clear this up?

Thanks,
Alex

[Chris W]

I have limited time and resources, so I use my work the moves on my goal route during my PE phase. If I'm specifically trying to train PE, I do it in the barn on my wall.

If I have two routes I'd like to work and one is very bouldery and one is pumpy, I'd try to work and send the more bouldery route earlier in the season when my power is high and the more pumpy route later in the season as my power diminishes but my PE improves.

I primarily train indoors in my barn until the PE phase, when I try to get outside as much as possible. Ideally, I'd be outside twice per week and indoors once per week, but I'm usually lucky to get outdoors once per week. Hope that helps.

[richb]

I think of the PE phase as time to start working my project as I work myself into route shape. In the performance phase I'm doing redpoint burns on my project, or if I've sent already I'm trying to onsight or do short-term projects below my max grade.