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Post by avaserfi on Jan 29, 2017 9:57:25 GMT -7
So, I'm in the process of moving and getting to redesign my home training gym. The old gym was nice, but fairly constrained, a small (10x10) second bedroom with slightly under 8ft ceilings. I managed to fit a good deal in the space. 8ft wide 38 degree wall, hangboard, slightly wobbly campus board and some stuff for supplemental exercises. I can't really complain about this setup. That said, the move is giving me a lot more space, and I can't wait to make use of it. I was hoping to crowd source some ideas to maximize function of the new training area. I'm taking over two cars worth of an oversized three car garage. I can creep into the third car portion, as long as a car can fit too. The garage is not currently insulated and the bulk of my section 20 feet deep x 18 feet wide with an unfinished ceiling, lower chords are about 8.5ft up and spaced 4 feet apart. There is potential to raise a couple chords as well, but I am hoping to see if I can safely set walls between the chords if I need the extra height. This won't all get built at once. It will have to happen as funds get freed. Regardless, as I build I want to think of the future. Equipment I already have and some plans to expand it: - Hangboard - Obviously a pretty important one, gonna stick with the same setup. Simple aluminum z hanger, adjustable width and I can switch out boards as needed. Pulleys etc.
- Campus board - my old setup had a removable board that mounted to a pullup bar. One board for large rungs and one for small. In my rooms height, if I started with my very low (butt nearly on the ground) I could fit 7 moon spaced rungs in. I'd like to allow for a higher start and leave room for another couple rungs for the future. The goal would be have both large and small rungs (skipping medium). Full setups 1-8 or 9 with halfmoon spacing.
- Steep wall - obviously this is coming. I'm probably going to make it slightly less steep (30 degrees), get rid of the vertical top section, extend the kicker slightly and make it as tall as the space will allow. This will stay as my limit wall. It also has the potential to get widened.
- Vertical Wall - Rarely used because of height of the room, mostly traversing into or out of harder problems. I would still like a less steep section, probably around 10-15 degrees.
- Pull up bar - This is currently used as a mount for my rings and TRX knock off. I'll probably find a taller mounting solution for the rings and TRX to make them more useful. I'd still like a pullup bar, but this might go or get incorporated elsewhere.
Equipment I'm considering:
- Moonboard - I got the holds fairly cheap and have been sitting on them. I think it looks like a fun and challenging limit boulder wall.
- System board - a simple system board seems like a great way to control limit problems and test deficiency on left/right movements
- Weights - I've recently started doing more lifting as part of my supplemental exercises and feel like the general strength has helped my climbing overall. I don't think this will take too much space.
- Vertical section - a small vertical section sounds like it will be great for skills development and technique. This could butt up to the 20 degree wall well. Although, I'm not sold on it.
Given the space I have I was thinking of the following setup, done close to scale. Obviously some wasted and empty space that needs to get filled. The garage door is at the bottom of the room. The chords run top to bottom in the garage, so the taller walls have to face the direction they do.
I've left off the system board and weights. I think the weight setup could sit behind the 20 degree wall saving climbing space.
I'm pretty open to changing this around. I feel like there is a ton of space, but am at a loss on how to best utilize it.
I appreciate any help and thoughts!
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jan 30, 2017 14:51:57 GMT -7
I'm short on time but a couple quick thoughts:
-Definitely utilize the space between the roof trusses to maximize wall height. 8.5' tall is far from ideal, and 4' between trusses is plenty of space to allow for a safe fall zone on any wall that isn't super steep.
-Definitely insulate your garage (or if that's too hard, build an enclosure around your wall and insulate that). That thing will be an oven in the summer and icebox in the winter.
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Post by avaserfi on Jan 30, 2017 15:22:54 GMT -7
I'm short on time but a couple quick thoughts: -Definitely utilize the space between the roof trusses to maximize wall height. 8.5' tall is far from ideal, and 4' between trusses is plenty of space to allow for a safe fall zone on any wall that isn't super steep. -Definitely insulate your garage (or if that's too hard, build an enclosure around your wall and insulate that). That thing will be an oven in the summer and icebox in the winter. Both in the plans. I'm really hoping the moon board and 30 degree wall can slide in between the trusses. I did the math and I think it will work real life testing is required. The backup plan is to raise a truss or two to get the height needed. |
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Post by jetjackson on Jan 31, 2017 12:42:44 GMT -7
Those photos don't seem to work?
3 garage spaces! Sweet!
I've slowly been stockpiling holds lately. Those stealth feet arrived, and last night I got a couple of sets of seams from Kilter. Sweet holds, thanks for the reco's.
You need 12 feet of height for an official moon board correct? If you can't get that in there, perhaps that's the thing to sacrifice if anything needs to be sacrificed?
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Post by climbnkev on Jan 31, 2017 12:49:37 GMT -7
You only need 10.5' of height for a Moonboard. Please upload photos so we can help with the design. Depending on their sizing with 4' spacing between bottom chords you are definitely going to need to beef those up if you want to anchor walls to them.
I've helped design and build 13 home walls, about half of those were for customers. I'm not a full time carpenter anymore but sometimes am willing to work a couple weekends to make someones home wall a reality. This can work really well if you have basic carpentry skills and can do a majority of the grunt work. Just an idea.....let me know if your interested.
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Post by jetjackson on Jan 31, 2017 12:59:05 GMT -7
Double-checked, you're right - my bad.
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Post by avaserfi on Jan 31, 2017 18:33:26 GMT -7
Those photos don't seem to work? 3 garage spaces! Sweet! I've slowly been stockpiling holds lately. Those stealth feet arrived, and last night I got a couple of sets of seams from Kilter. Sweet holds, thanks for the reco's. You need 12 feet of height for an official moon board correct? If you can't get that in there, perhaps that's the thing to sacrifice if anything needs to be sacrificed? Photos are fixed. Pretty excited about the large garage, it was a big selling point for obvious reasons! There are a few places height can be cut, but not too much of significance. You only need 10.5' of height for a Moonboard. Please upload photos so we can help with the design. Depending on their sizing with 4' spacing between bottom chords you are definitely going to need to beef those up if you want to anchor walls to them. I've helped design and build 13 home walls, about half of those were for customers. I'm not a full time carpenter anymore but sometimes am willing to work a couple weekends to make someones home wall a reality. This can work really well if you have basic carpentry skills and can do a majority of the grunt work. Just an idea.....let me know if your interested. I don't necessarily need to tie into the bottom chords. It is always a possibility, but adding excess supports will probably happen just for structural safety. I'm pretty capable in the carpentry department. More than anything I'm impatient and will want the wall up ASAP hah. The posted design is a very rough draft. I really think I need to focus on how to best maximize space efficieny to get the most climbing and training space in the spot I have available. Along with height constrictions of the garages lower cords. |
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Post by climbnkev on Jan 31, 2017 19:36:56 GMT -7
Ok, I saw your layout pic but still not one of the space. I can give you some tips and point out some challenges though. I think you are going to have to raise the left two truss chords ( from the left wall). Assuming you maintain the same 14.5" kick panel height for the Moonboard and the 30 degree wall you will have one wall about 4' out from the left wall at 8.5' and the Moon board will be 6' out. 2' of clearance will not be a safe distance with the wall being 2 feet above ( at least I wouldn't want it there).
If I was building your space I would make the 20 degree wall stretch all the way from the wall between the garage doors to 4' from the end wall and consider putting a door there to separate the spaces. Cars are dirty, especially in the winter, so you should try to separate the gym from the garage as much as possible so you can keep pads clean and dry. This will also help with temp control, why heat an extra 1/3 of the area if you don't have to. Also a 16' traversing wall will be great for warm-ups and arcing. Everything else looks awesome. Cant wait to see the finished product.
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Post by avaserfi on Feb 1, 2017 19:36:00 GMT -7
Ok, I saw your layout pic but still not one of the space. I can give you some tips and point out some challenges though. I think you are going to have to raise the left two truss chords ( from the left wall). Assuming you maintain the same 14.5" kick panel height for the Moonboard and the 30 degree wall you will have one wall about 4' out from the left wall at 8.5' and the Moon board will be 6' out. 2' of clearance will not be a safe distance with the wall being 2 feet above ( at least I wouldn't want it there). If I was building your space I would make the 20 degree wall stretch all the way from the wall between the garage doors to 4' from the end wall and consider putting a door there to separate the spaces. Cars are dirty, especially in the winter, so you should try to separate the gym from the garage as much as possible so you can keep pads clean and dry. This will also help with temp control, why heat an extra 1/3 of the area if you don't have to. Also a 16' traversing wall will be great for warm-ups and arcing. Everything else looks awesome. Cant wait to see the finished product. I sent you a private message about the project. Curious to get your thoughts on a few things. |
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Post by arrase on Apr 4, 2017 1:54:03 GMT -7
Have you started building yet? Interested to see the progress :-)
Designing the "perfect" area is quite hard for sure, trying to plan my own bouldering cave in the barn and looking for inspiration.
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Post by avaserfi on Apr 4, 2017 3:43:13 GMT -7
The space has created some logistic concerns that slowed down the processes. We are going to raise the garage ties from about 8 feet to 10.5 feet then insulate the garage shell and get proper lighting. From there we can go into the climbing wall build. climbnkev has been really helpful with the design. It is looking like there will be two walls parallel to each other, about 20 feet long. One will be split between a 40 degree moon wall and 30 degree wall. The other will be a 20 degree wall with a portion having adjustable angle from 20-40ish degrees. In between the two walls, against the front of the garage is the other training area housing campus board, hangboards, weights etc.
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Post by arrase on Apr 5, 2017 3:20:14 GMT -7
Sounds good, I can't seem to get the images working either, but looking forward to seeing this be built.
I have similar plans to the moonboard-split wall. But I will be going for 40º and 25º as Moon will come out with some sort of implementation of a 25º wall aswell in their system. Not sure just what it will be, but might be something to concider?
Sounds like you are building pretty similar to what I am hoping to build some time in the future. For now I'll have to make do with my adjustable moonboard.
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Post by willblack on Apr 5, 2017 6:49:09 GMT -7
I highly recommend drilling extra t nuts in your moonboard so it can also function as a 40 degree woody. This provides all the advantages of a moonboard with none of the downsides people complain about. As far as the 25 degree moonboard, I'm somewhat skeptical. It will use all the same holds as the 40 degree wall, so I think most of the holds will be too big for the angle and everything will get even more "jumpy"
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Post by arrase on Apr 6, 2017 23:57:59 GMT -7
Yeah, I agree about the extra t-nuts.. don't have that yet, but will add when I move my moonboard. For now I'm not using the yellow moon-holds (come on.. they are just there for color right?), so I have added other holds to the empty t-nuts, and have some extra home made wooden screw-ons aswell, so works fairly well as it is.
I have some doubts about the 25º aswell, hope he's not biting over too much now due to the recent success of the moonboard.
I'm very curious about the new hold series they will be adding too (50resin, 35 wood?).
I think the new holds will be the deciding factor for me if I will be setting up the 25º as an extra moonboard, or just as a 25º woody.
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