Post by erick on Dec 30, 2016 13:07:54 GMT -7
I hopefully will very soon be getting surgery to fix my left calcaneus, which I broke in a bad fall in the buttermilks on 12/18. After the surgery I expect that I will be off my foot for 2 months and probably have another month of rehab before I can actually begin climbing again. I do not want to spend those three months getting weak and hope to use this as a time to build and grow in areas I could be stronger. Obviously I will not be able to use my home climbing wall and any exercise that requires standing is a no go. So I am in the process of developing a “leg free” training plan and would love some help doing so. The resources I have to use are…
Some free weights (a few plates, KBs, mostly used for hangboarding)
Lots of thera bands
Gymnastic Rings (I’m thinking of getting a sling trainer as well)
RPTC on adjustable mount
Full Campus board
16’ 30 degree wall (not sure if I can use this or the campus board in any safe way)
Here are my training goals,
Increased Core Strength, I feel like my core is pretty good but to me the hallmark of excellent core strength is doing a proper lever. I have never been able to do more than easy lever (both legs tucked in) and having time dedicated to core training will provide some benefits as I have seen how core tension is huge for a lot of the limit problems I have tried.
Shoulder Stability, I always have some slight issue with my right shoulder and I think I injured my left in the fall. So this is a good time to focus on strengthening them and my push muscles in general.
Finger Strength, I can still use the hangboard so I plan to do a lot of this. I have been doing the advanced repeater protocol for a while now and it has been working but I cannot imagine doing this exclusively for three months. I will post more about my ideas in the strength forum.
Increased pull power, from what I have seen my pull strength is not super strong compared to my finger strength so I would like to improve this but it’s the least important goal to me. But I would love to be able and do a 1 arm pull up to win bar bets.
I am wondering how I should structure my training on the macro and micro level. It seems that doing the same thing for three months straight would be a recipe for injury so I would like to change things up. One idea was a three month linear type plan which would look like
Month 1 Base Fitness, or lower weight high rep protocols with lots of volume. The Hangboard protocol would be some type of repeaters that would favor volume over intensity
Month 2 Hypertrophy, I would move all my lifting protocols toward hypertrophy. Hangboard would probably switch to Eric Horst 7-53 protocol.
Month 3 Power, I would make all my exercises max lifting protocols. Hangboarding would be a Eva Lopez style of Max Hangs
Questions
What do you think of this (half baked) plan?
How many exercises should I use to achieve each of my goals
Should I stick with the same exercises the whole time but change my protocol or switch the exercises depending on the phase?
What exercises would be best for my preferred goals?
What am I forgetting or are there major fitness goals I should be trying to achieve right now?
I know this is a lot to take in but I really appreciate any ideas or feedback.
Eric
Some free weights (a few plates, KBs, mostly used for hangboarding)
Lots of thera bands
Gymnastic Rings (I’m thinking of getting a sling trainer as well)
RPTC on adjustable mount
Full Campus board
16’ 30 degree wall (not sure if I can use this or the campus board in any safe way)
Here are my training goals,
Increased Core Strength, I feel like my core is pretty good but to me the hallmark of excellent core strength is doing a proper lever. I have never been able to do more than easy lever (both legs tucked in) and having time dedicated to core training will provide some benefits as I have seen how core tension is huge for a lot of the limit problems I have tried.
Shoulder Stability, I always have some slight issue with my right shoulder and I think I injured my left in the fall. So this is a good time to focus on strengthening them and my push muscles in general.
Finger Strength, I can still use the hangboard so I plan to do a lot of this. I have been doing the advanced repeater protocol for a while now and it has been working but I cannot imagine doing this exclusively for three months. I will post more about my ideas in the strength forum.
Increased pull power, from what I have seen my pull strength is not super strong compared to my finger strength so I would like to improve this but it’s the least important goal to me. But I would love to be able and do a 1 arm pull up to win bar bets.
I am wondering how I should structure my training on the macro and micro level. It seems that doing the same thing for three months straight would be a recipe for injury so I would like to change things up. One idea was a three month linear type plan which would look like
Month 1 Base Fitness, or lower weight high rep protocols with lots of volume. The Hangboard protocol would be some type of repeaters that would favor volume over intensity
Month 2 Hypertrophy, I would move all my lifting protocols toward hypertrophy. Hangboard would probably switch to Eric Horst 7-53 protocol.
Month 3 Power, I would make all my exercises max lifting protocols. Hangboarding would be a Eva Lopez style of Max Hangs
Questions
What do you think of this (half baked) plan?
How many exercises should I use to achieve each of my goals
Should I stick with the same exercises the whole time but change my protocol or switch the exercises depending on the phase?
What exercises would be best for my preferred goals?
What am I forgetting or are there major fitness goals I should be trying to achieve right now?
I know this is a lot to take in but I really appreciate any ideas or feedback.
Eric