Novice planning first season of training. Guidance needed!

[timrod]

Hey everyone! I'm about halfway through the book right now. I'm looking at the training plan recommended for beginner's and it accounts for a week long climbing vacation at week 14. I am a student and I have a spring break in late March. With the way I have it set up, my spring break is the 1st week of the strength phase (week 5). I'm not a huge weenie about cutting out this week because since I'm so relatively weak I will experience a whole lot of growth during the last two weeks of the strength phase. However, is there anything I can do beforehand knowing that I will miss that entire week of training?

Also, the generic novice training schedule recommends getting outside both days of the weekend for the Base Fitness Phase. I see that this is to get experience on real rock, and to climb as much as possible. I might be able to go outside once every other weekend. I'm thinking of replacing the Outdoor Mileage with more ACR training.

I know I sound like a total noob, and I absolutely hate it. I appreciate any advice y'all have, and thanks for bearing with me.

Tim

[willblack]

Tim,

I don't think that a week of rest is the worst thing in the world, but if I were you I would try to use that week to extend your Base Fitness phase if possible by climbing at a gym or outside wherever you will be during your spring break. If this is not possible, a week of rest is no big deal. I would, however, try to avoid losing a week of your strength phase. If possible you should start a full strength phase once you get back.

In terms of replacing outdoor mileage with ARCing, I'd say that depends on your particular skill level and goals. I think one of the most important benefits of climbing outside for a new climber is that outdoor climbing, especially in a variety of styles on a variety of rock types will help improve your technique in a way that ARCing in the gym likely won't. I'd recommend getting outside as much as possible, though I know firsthand how hard that can be. Of course, if you can't ARCing is likely the next best thing.

One final/unsolicited note on training for beginners in general: Don't get too attached to rapid improvement if you are a relatively new climber, and don't turn climbing into a chore. I don't know how many years you have been climbing, but if you're still in your first couple years training can be fun and help you improve, or it can ruin climbing for you if you get too attached to meeting your expectations every season. That's not to say that you shouldn't train, but try to find enjoyment in the process rather than the outcome, because sometimes injuries or weather or unexpected circumstances will come along and negate any goals for a particular trip.

In terms of your "noob" comment, I don't think you sound like a noob, you sound like you're looking for thoughtful advice from experienced folks (sorry you got a reply from me instead). Oddly enough, this forum still hasn't devolved into childish name calling and 30-page hate-filled threads debating the use/uselessness of the PAS.

[daustin]

I think Will makes great points. I agree, and would add a couple more comments:

- Do you have a climbing trip or hard "deadline" for your performance phase? If not and you have a little flexibility in your schedule, I would probably do another week of Base Fitness after your spring break, and would then transition into a full Strength phase. That way you're not going straight into hangboarding from a week of rest, which could be a little intense if you've never done it before

- For novice climbers/trainers, I think the need for very isolated exercises like hangboarding or campusing is less than for veteran climbers/trainers. There's a lot to be gained through time spent moving on rock (or plastic), and I wouldn't worry too much about (for example) getting in 10 HB sessions in your Strength phase or doing a 1-3-5 or whatever on the campus board. A big part of training for novices is getting into the right mindset -- having specific goals/objectives for your time at the gym or on the rock, and knowing what type of climbing will help you achieve those goals. It's good to experiment with training apparatus, but don't get too caught up in them at the expense of gaining experience on rock

[timrod]

Thanks for the responses Will and Austin. I forgot to mention that my spring break will be spent at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch (HCR)! I have a few mini goals over there. I also rearranged my schedule such that my spring break at HCR is the third week of the strength phase (week 7).

What should I do in order to benefit my week spent at HCR?

Thanks for the advice y'all. I will make sure to prioritize outdoor climbing higher!

[willblack]

Tim,

I've not climbed at HCR, but I climb a bunch on similar sandstone (Obed, Chattanooga, NRG, RRG). If it were up to me I would keep the schedule how you had it originally, with your trip at the end of your base fitness phase. Since you will likely be climbing a lot your trip will probably include a lot of mileage. I would also personally avoid taking a trip right at the end/during your strength phase. I have personally found that I climb really poorly in my first couple limit bouldering workouts after the strength phase, and I think that's in some part due to the fact that I kind of have to remember some of the subtleties of climbing technique and trying hard. I also think that the strength phase is the phase in which it is most important to stick to a workout schedule without any outdoor climbing. Training for your trip really depends on your goals. Have you been there before and have a couple hard projects in mind, or are you more interested in getting on lots of routes? I'll make a presumption based on your description of yourself as a beginner and suggest you do the latter. Getting on lots of different routes will increase your "dictionary" of movement and make you more comfortable with leading. Onsight climbing is also a skill that takes a ton of practice and can also be a good way of overcoming mental boundaries associated with performance anxiety and fear of the unknown or fear of falling. One small thing you can do to improve your chances of climbing well on your trip (and again here, I'm making an assumption based on your description of yourself as a beginner) is to practice leading in the gym as part of your base fitness phase. Practice onsighting routes you haven't tried before, taking falls, and climbing moderately difficult routes while pumped. This kind of workout would likely not interfere with ARCing, as you can spend half an hour on lead climbing practice then do a normal ARC workout.

Hope that helps.

P.S. Apologies if you're totally comfortable with leading and I made an ignorant assumption.

[jcm]

^^^ I agree with the post above mine. The end of the Base Fitness phase is actually a pretty good time to schedule a trip. At this point in the season I'm not necessarily strong for hard sends, but I'm climbing decently (lots of technique practice) and have good stamina. This is a good time for a fun climbing trip focusing on mileage, with lots of moderate onsighting. Once you get back, take an extra rest day or two and then go straight into Strength training. Unless you have a hard deadline (like a trip in early summer), don't shorten the strength phase to stay "on schedule".

I also agree that the strength phase is just about the worst phase to schedule a trip during.

[timrod]

Will and jcm, thank you two so much. I am a novice at leading and I will adjust my schedule so that my trip is at the end of my base fitness phase. Thanks y'all!

[willblack]

Let us know how it goes!