New River Gorge Training Help

[Elvis K]

Hey guys,

So I am going to the New for about a week (spring and summer) and wanted some tips/pointers on what I should focus on during training. Or what I should neglect, like pockets for example? 
 
Any input would be great.

Thanks and Happy Festivus!  

[tedwelser]

Dec 24, 2016 9:14:03 GMT -7 Elvis K said:

Hey guys,

So I am going to the New for about a week (spring and summer) and wanted some tips/pointers on what I should focus on during training. Or what I should neglect, like pockets for example? 
 
Any input would be great.

Thanks and Happy Festivus!  

Crimp strength is helpful for cruxes and open hand strengths is good for the easier bits. What are your target routes ?

[climber511]

Spring and summer - prepare for muggy conditions . What will be different from what you are used to will depend on where you usually climb. Not generally as overhanging as the Red for example - lots of "bulges" as cruxes - lots of thin face - all depending on the level of climbing of course.

[daustin]

I've been to the New a couple times, so I'm not an expert, but when I think of quintessential sport climbing at the New, I think of gently overhanging faces with long reaches between horizontal edges. Kind of like the Red, but not as steep and juggy.

Also like the Red, the New is a huge, diverse area where you can climb just about every style imaginable, so YMMV depending on if you have specific routes in mind.

[Elvis K]

I love muggy conditions considering my hands don't sweat!

I am looking to do Pod, Apollo, Skylore, and Just Send it. I also want to attempt my first 12d onsight.
I want a bit of diversity, since It will be more of a mileage trip.

From the videos I have watched; lock-off's would be beneficial, crimp/edge strength, and good shoes.

I am already doing a standard hb workout consisting of; MR, FC, M, SCC, IM, WP. Should I switch one of these out or add another grip position?


Anything else that may be be beneficial for some supplemental exercises?

Thanks and I hope everyone had a great and fat holiday! I know I did.

[Lundy]

Elvis,
The New is where I climb most often, and those are the same grips I train except the M. I don't find I usually need WP, but I keep it in there just cause I suck at it...

All the climbs you've chosen are pretty much straight power endurance routes, so I'd focus on that. The only one of those with a moderately hard boulder problem crux is the bottom of Skylore, but even that's probably only V6. The holds are crimps on that one, but the challenge is more body positioning and weight transfer.

Again, for supplemental, you're looking at steep power endurance routes, so make sure you've got an all day core. And yes, lock-offs will help, especially on Skylore.

[tedwelser]

Dec 26, 2016 9:44:28 GMT -7 Elvis K said:

I love muggy conditions considering my hands don't sweat!

I am looking to do Pod, Apollo, Skylore, and Just Send it. I also want to attempt my first 12d onsight.
I want a bit of diversity, since It will be more of a mileage trip.

From the videos I have watched; lock-off's would be beneficial, crimp/edge strength, and good shoes.

I am already doing a standard hb workout consisting of; MR, FC, M, SCC, IM, WP. Should I switch one of these out or add another grip position?


Anything else that may be be beneficial for some supplemental exercises?

Thanks and I hope everyone had a great and fat holiday! I know I did.

If you have access to a moonboard I would suggest doing V5-8 on the black and white sets.  Those problems tend to have some big awkward moves at times, and pulling hard but in slightly weird ways is helpful for the New.   Both Apollo and POD have some sections like that, as do many routes at the new.  

I would say that the direct start to narcissus is a good candidate for your 12d goal, and lactic acid bath is as well.  In general, the hole at kaymore would have a bunch of routes for your volume goal.  

Finally there is a good vimeo clip about Tubin Dudes and Zelda which make them seem pretty appealing as quick projects for someone with your strength/goals.  

[Lundy]

I was thinking Narcissus Direct, too. I think that's a bit softer .12d, and it's also a bit easier to read, so you're not spending a ton of time trying to decrypt the sequence. If you get the time to check it out, Slash and Burn, while not the power-endurance type route you're looking for, I think is one of the best lines I've ever climbed. .12d basically dead vertical with long pulls of crimps. SUPER fun climbing...

[MarkAnderson]

How tall are you and what's your ape? Reach is everything at the New, and some of the routes on this thread are quite reachy (Skylore and Zelda come to mind).

[Lundy]

Dec 28, 2016 15:58:17 GMT -7 MarkAnderson said:

How tall are you and what's your ape? Reach is everything at the New, and some of the routes on this thread are quite reachy (Skylore and Zelda come to mind).

This is definitely true.  There's a move at the top of Skylore, the redpoint crux really, that is super long.  I'm 5'9" with a +2 ape and it's a ludicrously long move for me.  Doable, but really a huck.