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Post by DRNP on Dec 15, 2016 15:35:50 GMT -7
Hi All-
I've chimed into the "breakthrough season" thread several times after quite a few successful seasons where I sent my projects and all went according to plan. However, I just finished a season and it was rather "unsuccessful". I know the Anderson brothers highlight this in their book that even a season without sending your project can still be productive, and like them I did achieve new personal bests in my strength and power phases. However, I didn't send "the proj" and I think it was mostly due to a lack of motivation for it which is another story entirely.
Anyone else have "unsuccessful" seasons? And how do you get the motivation back up for another afterwards?
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Post by joecoov on Dec 15, 2016 15:58:23 GMT -7
Hi All- I've chimed into the "breakthrough season" thread several times after quite a few successful seasons where I sent my projects and all went according to plan. However, I just finished a season and it was rather "unsuccessful". I know the Anderson brothers highlight this in their book that even a season without sending your project can still be productive, and like them I did achieve new personal bests in my strength and power phases. However, I didn't send "the proj" and I think it was mostly due to a lack of motivation for it which is another story entirely. Anyone else have "unsuccessful" seasons? And how do you get the motivation back up for another afterwards? One thing I like to do to stay motivated is to look at all my old sends. Look back year to year and see how much better you have become, and how much more fun the climbs are now that you can climb 5.1x. Also, if the project is no fun, maybe skip it for a while and pick something more fun? If you think it is worth revisiting in the future, perhaps add it back when the psych is there? I know projects are hard, but I think they should be fun too. Just my 2 cents. -Joe
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Post by tedwelser on Dec 15, 2016 21:36:13 GMT -7
Hi All- I've chimed into the "breakthrough season" thread several times after quite a few successful seasons where I sent my projects and all went according to plan. However, I just finished a season and it was rather "unsuccessful". I know the Anderson brothers highlight this in their book that even a season without sending your project can still be productive, and like them I did achieve new personal bests in my strength and power phases. However, I didn't send "the proj" and I think it was mostly due to a lack of motivation for it which is another story entirely. Anyone else have "unsuccessful" seasons? And how do you get the motivation back up for another afterwards? In terms of completing sport routes my fall season was unsuccessful. In fact, the last three seasons were unsuccessful in terms of reaching new max difficulty levels. However, I have managed to recognize in each season ways in which I was actually growing as a climber and this has helped me stay more positive and motivated. I wonder if you can look back on the other routes that you climbed this fall and see evidence of progress? Perhaps your warm ups have become easier, or you are able to tackle middle level routes with greater confidence? I know for me, a big transition was that I was able to happily warm up on a much wider range of routes, even if my max was unchanged. Another place I can see progress is that I started to consider a route that is outside of my strengths as an interesting project (a bouldery, low crux route). I made progress and after two sessions did all of the moves, and I can envision climbing the route at some point soon- spring? not sure, but I will be interested to try. I also had trouble finding a motivating project at my normal crag (Red), so eventually I just decided that I would stop going to the Red until I was ready to send routes that excited me again. I went to the New and I went bouldering and I had a lot more fun. So, I would say that you should see that ways that you have already pivoted away from your project and the ways that you might shift your attention to something new and more motivating. good luck!
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Post by MarkAnderson on Dec 15, 2016 22:10:55 GMT -7
Another place I can see progress is that I started to consider a route that is outside of my strengths as an interesting project (a bouldery, low crux route). I made progress and after two sessions did all of the moves, and I can envision climbing the route at some point soon- spring? not sure, but I will be interested to try. This has been really huge for me since I moved to Colorado. Since it takes me years to move up a letter grade, I have to look pretty hard to see signs of tangible progress within a season. Although I'm no longer shooting up the grade scale like I did in my 20's, one thing I'm really proud of is that I've managed to significantly broaden my skillset. All the roof FAs I'm constantly spraying about would have been totally out of the question for me 10 years ago. Perhaps more importantly, I used to really hate that type of climbing, but now I think it's really fun (Ego?). In general, as my skillset has broadened, so has my definition of what routes are "good" or "enjoyable".
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Post by daustin on Dec 18, 2016 21:36:34 GMT -7
Sorry man, that sucks
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Post by MarkAnderson on Dec 19, 2016 9:24:49 GMT -7
Ya, that really sucks. I really struggle with knowing when you should "go for it", and when you shouldn't. I suspect if you had backed off, you'd be beating yourself up for chickening out. I don't have a good answer.
Hopefully your ankle will be good enough for sport climbing quicker than you think.
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Post by erick on Dec 19, 2016 11:03:35 GMT -7
The hardest part was admitting to myself that my season is truly over. Even yesterday as I was crawling to the toilet I kept thinking "I could maybe climb again with a few days rest". Ill be lucky if I my foot is healed enough to use the clutch in a few days when we drive home.
Im trying to get excited about hangboarding till I'm feeling better. Plus I'm sure ill figure out all the best exercises you can do without needing to stand. Maybe my kneeling start campus setup will prove its value. Anyone want to donate a "forge" to help me get excited about this new training phase?
Eric
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Post by aikibujin on Dec 19, 2016 14:58:36 GMT -7
Im trying to get excited about hangboarding till I'm feeling better. Plus I'm sure ill figure out all the best exercises you can do without needing to stand. Maybe my kneeling start campus setup will prove its value. Man that sucks! I'm sorry. If you don't already have a set of gymnastic rings, maybe get a set. There are tons of exercises you can do on the rings that don't need require standing, lots of video tutorials on youtube. A “glass half full” look at your situation is that by doing lot of ring exercises, hangboarding, and campusing, you'll get so ridiculously strong while losing all that unnecessary muscle weight in your legs. By the time your legs heal, you’ll probably just campus everything like Jan Hojer.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Dec 19, 2016 15:35:46 GMT -7
A “glass half full” look at your situation is that by doing lot of ring exercises, hangboarding, and campusing, you'll get so ridiculously strong while losing all that unnecessary muscle weight in your legs. By the time your legs heal, you’ll probably just campus everything like Jan Hojer. Ah yes, the Tony Yaniro strategy. Rumor has it he actually got a doctor friend to put his legs in casts for a while to see if they we atrophy. The above was also posted in my article "The No-Effort Plan to Improved Performance."
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Post by jcm on Dec 19, 2016 17:11:14 GMT -7
^^^ There's probably something to this strategy. I experienced a notable jump in performance immediately after taking 4.5 months off for knee surgery. I had surgery in early February 2012, and could start sport climbing again in late May. By early August of that year I was climbing better than I ever had. I didn't train much during the off period...but I did drop close to 10 pounds of leg weight. Basically, it killed off the thigh muscles left over from when I was a road cyclist. The injury was a bummer, but dropping that leg weight was a silver lining.
So if you are diligent with the hangboarding, and rehab for your ankle, it is pretty much guaranteed that you'll be stronger than ever for spring sport climbing season.
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Post by Chris W on Dec 19, 2016 18:09:31 GMT -7
Erick, the last time I didn't think I broke anything I limped through an entire 30 hour shift with two broken metatarsals on a pair of crutches I stole from the ER store room. If it's bugging you that bad it may not be a bad idea to get an x-ray. All mistrust of the medical community aside, it's kind of hard to mess up a diagnosis of a broken bone if it's staring you in the face.
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Post by solwertkin on Dec 20, 2016 15:45:16 GMT -7
Erick,
You might want to delete these pre-existing conditions posts, if you do need to end up getting some work done on your limb this could void your insurance. Sorry to hear about the injury!!
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Post by erick on Dec 20, 2016 21:29:10 GMT -7
I went in to get things checked out, I broke my left heel and it needs surgery. I was honest and called my future insurance carrier and they will cover me as long as I get one of their approved docs to check it out after Jan 1 and then schedule a surgery. So at least thats good, trouble is the doc I saw today says I should probably get surgery done asap, like this week. Ill probably delete these posts soon just in case their minds but if they want to not cover me they probably have all the info they need to do it.
Sol, do you have any docs you want to recommend?
Eric
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Post by Chris W on Dec 21, 2016 5:03:48 GMT -7
Eric, by heel to you mean calcaneus? What type of break and how bad? Did you see a physician at home or where you were bouldering?
My good friend and climbing partner (in his mid 60's) couldn't go with me this fall to the NRG because he shattered his calcaneus. After the initial assessment to confirm the broken foot, he go an appointment scheduled to see a podiatrist in an orthopedic group, but the appointment was two weeks away. I was a bit concerned about that, so called the surgeon and asked for a professional favor. He saw my friend early and was very generous with his time and answered a lot of questions for me.
Bottom line, it is often preferred by the surgeons to wait one or two weeks following the injury to perform the surgery. This is to allow a lot of the acute inflammation to settle down prior to performing the surgery. If you were honest with your insurance company, I don't think you'll have trouble with these posts.
I also have a brother who shattered his ankle, talus and calcaneus in a similar type of accident. He had let his insurance lapse at the time.
I may be able to help you with a lot of questions, so feel free to ask. I have to run to work now, but I'll try to keep my eyes on this post.
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Post by erick on Dec 21, 2016 7:18:30 GMT -7
Yes it was the calcaneus. Rear half of the bone broke and moved upward an to the left. I was able to see a speRCTMkicksAsst who here in bishop, the local health care center worked great and let me skip the general practice referral. I don't think he was a surgeon himself but he thought this looked pretty bad and said I needed to go to a foot and ankle center in seattle when I'm back. With all the holiday stuff I doubt I could get anything done before the new year anyway.
Eric
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