Discomfort

[joev9]

I something silly on FB today about lobsters being uncomfortable in their shells, at which point they then shed their shells and grow. The moral was something along the line of being uncomfortable is an opportunity to grow. It got me thinking about climbing routes and problems at your limit and how it never really gets easier. I have had a long history of not sending my projects until they feel comfortable (or as comfortable as possible). However, looking back at each benchmark send that I had, they were all hard.  I still remember my first V2 twenty-something years ago and how hard I worked for that send. That problem is now in my regular warmup circuit, but the first time I did it, it was freaking hard. No matter where your limit is, sends near that limit will not come easy.  All the training we do just raises the limit, it doesn't make climbing at that limit any easier or comfortable.   I'm working really hard mentally right now to embrace the discomfort and give that all out "try hard" effort to break my habit of waiting (too long) until the send isn't so uncomfortable.

[MarkAnderson]

Great post. At times I've thought "climbing will be more fun when I'm better, because the grades I'm struggling on now will feel easy". But then those grades aren't interesting any more. The reality is that I like putting myself in challenging situations. It's more enjoyable on some level.

Anyway, I tend to do the same thing, especially over the last few years, as I've spent more and more time on my projects. When I was younger and regularly sending things every 2-4 climbing days, it was easier to get into a zone where I was trying hard on redpoint regularly (of course, the routes were also easier relative to my limit, so there was more margin to work with, and so more likely that just trying a little harder could make the difference). These days such experiences are rare, but at the same time, that makes them feel extra special. When I get in a zone like that I'm super stoked to get out and climb as much as possible so I can "cash in" on that performance edge. This season feels that way, and I've been enjoying climbing more than I have in years.

[erk]

I have been thinking about this lately. So far everything has been moving forward like clockwork with the program. Maybe I won't meet a hangboard goal or send a route one season, but I can usually count on achieving those goals the next season. Everything at my next level always feels hard. But as you mentioned it always ends up being that same level of uncomfortable and I can usually push through.

What I am nervous about is when that level of discomfort becomes worse...

Right now I feel that I am still pretty far from my potential (or at least that's what I'm hoping). But it makes me ponder whether I will have the mental fortitude (i.e. managing anxiety around sending) to climb at my at that limit when I do get there.

Mark, lately you've talked about practicing trying hard. I am curious on what you're thoughts are on managing anxiety.

[MarkAnderson]

That's a real problem for me. I take everything way too seriously and I can get really stressed out over my climbing performance. Even on training days I experience some anxiety over how the workout will go.

Big picture, the best approach is probably to stop caring so much, but on a day-to-day basis that's hard to do. I try to distract myself as much as possible. On rest days I set aside time for worrying about my project (that is, visualizing, film study, jotting down beta notes and goals for the next day), but aside from that I try not to think about climbing at all. On climbing days I try to make sure all the little things (like packing, timeline, weather, partners) are accounted for in advance so I don't have to worry about it that day. Then in the hours leading up to climbing, I can think about something else, watch a movie, listen to music, etc knowing that when it's time to climb, everything will be ready. Once I'm on the route it's less of a problem for me. The hay is in the barn for the most part, and all that's left is to focus and try hard. That might be different if there is legit fear involved, but in a sport climbing context that's usually something that can be mitigated ahead of time.

[Totally OT, but this is another reason I roll my eyes when people say weed is not a performance enhancing drug. A drug that eliminates anxiety? How could that possibly help...?]

[seano]

I used to do some road bike racing and I remember seeing an awesome quote from Greg LeMond: "It never gets any easier, you just get faster." I think if you want to get better, you've got to embrace the discomfort and accept that it won't feel easy. Or so I'd imagine. I totally struggle with the same thing.

[erk]

Mark - Thanks for the input,

Seano - That's a nice quote

I guess I'll just start playing the waiting game, in the mean time I'll keep doing what I can to tilt the odds in my favor when it does come time to tug down really hard.