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Post by MarkAnderson on Oct 25, 2016 19:25:17 GMT -7
That's good advice. Honestly the way I am, it's hard to imagine not having some kind of goal to aspire to. I get really restless pretty quick if I don't have something meaningful to obsess over. I'll be thoroughly occupied with FAs for the next year at least. After that? Probably more FAs, haha.
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hangboarderjon
New Member
Sometimes the hard way is the only way.
Posts: 44
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Post by hangboarderjon on Sept 20, 2020 14:26:53 GMT -7
I have been meaning to try max hangs. But the bottom line is, if I truly thought any of that stuff were better, I'd already be doing it. I don't know if they would be "better" exactly. I know I'm pretty rooted in the belief that max hangs provide faster strength gains than repeaters (having done both), but max hangs work pretty much 100% off ATP, rather than a set of repeaters which require you to work of muscular glycogen most of the time, and even though repeaters are absolutely a strength workout I still feel like they benefit my strength-endurance quite a bit. In addition I don't think most people take into account the mental gains from each. Repeaters teach you to dig deep and hang on when you're pumped outta your gourd (essential for sport climbing), and max hangs teach you that no matter how hard you're pulling you can pull harder (essential for bouldering). Those factors alone are worth it to me to switch from one to the other when I'm switching from sport climbing to bouldering or vice versa.
Clearly, I don't speak for Mark in this response. But what I've been doing, mostly due to COVID-19 isolation plus other time constraints, is every 5th hangboard workout is a "Maximum Test" session. Instead of repeaters I do single 7 second hangs, spaced 2 minutes apart, ramping up the weight with each rep until I hit a "1-rep-max" hang. I do this for 3 different hold types -- open hand, half-crimp, and pinch. Including warmup this takes about an hour to an hour and a half (also included is max lockoff strength, max lever strength, test of big-toe strength). Did I mention I haven't been climbing outdoors much... 
This is my method of
1) Measuring my gains in maximum strength 2) Including some neuro-muscular/psychological recruitment training to accelerate my gains in regular sessions 3) Offset my lack of access to my project boulder problem (it's a 5 hour drive) which would require maximum effort attempts. |
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Post by jetjackson on Sept 20, 2020 15:20:11 GMT -7
The few times I've done one arm max hang tests I've picked up tweaks, so I avoid them now.
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