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Post by gargano on Sept 26, 2016 19:57:35 GMT -7
Congrats Mark!
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Post by MarkAnderson on Sept 27, 2016 6:23:46 GMT -7
I have been meaning to try max hangs. But the bottom line is, if I truly thought any of that stuff were better, I'd already be doing it.
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Post by jlarson on Sept 27, 2016 8:21:37 GMT -7
Awesome! Very inspiring news and an excellent write up of the process.
Enjoy your cookies or pizza or whatever, job well done!
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Post by jessebruni on Sept 27, 2016 13:01:41 GMT -7
I have been meaning to try max hangs. But the bottom line is, if I truly thought any of that stuff were better, I'd already be doing it. I don't know if they would be "better" exactly. I know I'm pretty rooted in the belief that max hangs provide faster strength gains than repeaters (having done both), but max hangs work pretty much 100% off ATP, rather than a set of repeaters which require you to work of muscular glycogen most of the time, and even though repeaters are absolutely a strength workout I still feel like they benefit my strength-endurance quite a bit. In addition I don't think most people take into account the mental gains from each. Repeaters teach you to dig deep and hang on when you're pumped outta your gourd (essential for sport climbing), and max hangs teach you that no matter how hard you're pulling you can pull harder (essential for bouldering). Those factors alone are worth it to me to switch from one to the other when I'm switching from sport climbing to bouldering or vice versa. |
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Post by joev9 on Sept 27, 2016 13:02:21 GMT -7
I was thinking today, is this the hardest send ever by a "weekend warrior"  |
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Post by tahmad on Sept 29, 2016 8:32:07 GMT -7
Its sends like this that inspire me way more than your typical crusher dispensing with his/her proj. Years of hard work and smart training!
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Post by schaefer on Sept 29, 2016 16:01:00 GMT -7
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erk
Junior Member
Posts: 83 
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Post by erk on Oct 3, 2016 13:15:25 GMT -7
Congrats Mark!! It's the stories like these that get me more psyched than anything. Can't wait for the write-up on how you trained.
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Post by Chris W on Oct 7, 2016 8:42:02 GMT -7
Mark, I'd be interested in hearing how you split your time between training for and projecting Shadowboxing and working on other routes each season.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Oct 7, 2016 9:28:44 GMT -7
All in due time, grasshopper.
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Post by joev9 on Oct 7, 2016 12:31:49 GMT -7
Mark's profile photo inspired me to change mine to that time, back in the day, when I first sent V9 and my buddy baked me a "V9" cake.
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Post by jetjackson on Oct 9, 2016 17:02:03 GMT -7
What!? There's a V9 cake... If only I'd known that sooner.
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Post by johnybinwv on Oct 14, 2016 8:02:19 GMT -7
Mark,
Congratulations!!!!! That really is a great blog post. We all can recognize the memorization of minutiae that sending at your limit requires even if it is at a lower level.
Also, you talk about it in your book, but choosing mega projects really isn't the best use of time until you have climbed a wide variety of terrain and gone through multiple training seasons. Maybe now was finally the time.
Also, you shouldn't do the whole self-deprecation thing. With a lifetime devoted to climbing and reaching very high levels, it just isn't necessary. You 'da man. You aren't fat, nor that old, you don't suck, but you are very bald!!!! We should all be patient and happy with where we are, even while training for greater and greater feats.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Oct 15, 2016 18:05:26 GMT -7
Thanks johny. I think I always see myself as the gumby I was when I started. I really, sincerely am surprised at the things I can climb. I doesn't jive with my self-image (which is probably holding me back). So I appreciate the encouragement.
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Post by johnybinwv on Oct 25, 2016 10:54:37 GMT -7
Mark,
I think I also realized after I made that comment that there is a significant downer feeling after big accomplishment. The 'where do I go from here' feeling that results from pouring so much effort and energy into something and not being able to foresee repeating the feat due to the realities of existence.
Perhaps a useful way to deal (I'm also a parent, a husband, a Ph.D. student, a teacher, and a landlord and do various other small business schemes) is to cultivate goals that are achievable but still compelling. For example, traveling and training for hard onsights! Who doesn't love upping their onsight game? Or bouldering, the form of climbing I find most compatible with children. Or really difficult or unsual (offwidths?) trad climbing, which will probably test your mental game as much as physical game. Or whatever it is, it seems most likely that you will be able to find a compelling aspect of the sport in which you have not reached your potential within the constraints of your life. In that aspect of the sport you can build capacity and skill and execute and dream big and achieve big.
Peace!!! Also, thank you for all the energy and time and thought you and your brother have put into this website and your book. These resources truly are helping a lot of people get better at the sport they love.
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