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Post by korduroy on Sept 19, 2016 9:37:17 GMT -7
I am currently in the PE phase of my first training cycle. Things thus far are looking (and feeling) pretty good. However, I do not plan on beginning another cycle until late December/early January 2017. During this ~2 month downtime, I plan on bouldering a TON. I love sport climbing, but the weather window is limited here in the Northeast, and I live 5 minutes from a world-class bouldering destination. I typically boulder a LOT this time of year, but I don’t want to lose much of the gains ive made during this first cycle.
My question is, if I plan on not starting another cycle until January, would the following supplemental, call it conjugate, training work to maintain fitness and possibly assist with the bouldering season?
Day 1 – WBL (~20 min) LB (~15 min) Max Hangs Optional SE
2 days rest (possible yoga/SE day after)
Day 2 – WBL (~15 min) Campus Board (~15-20 min) ARC (2 x 20)
2 days rest
Outdoor day Repeat
Some days may be replaced with more outdoor sessions, but generally this was my thought for a “schedule” during this “off-season.” I should also note, that I do not perform max hangs during my RCTM cycles, only repeaters.
Your thoughts and suggestions are welcome. Cheers!
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Post by yui on Sept 19, 2016 11:55:23 GMT -7
I'm a little confused...
First, if you are in the PE phase of your training program, then I assume you have gone through with the strength and power already? What you should be doing during the performance phase is rock climbing, my friend. Like you, I typically boulder in the fall for about 2 months (october and november). The Anderson brothers advocate about a 4 week performance phase for a bouldering cycle but frankly I extend that to about 7 or 8 weeks after a long cycle of training. I want more payoff than 4 weeks of outdoor climbing. However, I definitely feel like my power is at the max for about the first 4 weeks of performance. My performance remains consistent until the 7/8 week mark and then I really feel my body take a nose dive, so then I give it a break. Also, I rarely do climbing maintenance sessions during the week and instead I boulder at night or sometimes very early in the morning before work, once or twice a week. It looks like you live very close to the boulders so you can take advantage of that as well, or maybe your schedule even allows you to get out midweek? I do, however, lift weights once or twice a week and stretch regularly, mostly to prevent injury. My shoulders get sore if I don't do some opposition workouts.
Just to give you some reference on me, I am 29 years old. I've been climbing for about 11 years and I have climbed v10 and 13a. Maybe if you are older/younger you can handle a different volume of climbing. I have a full time job, but I am single and without kids so my free time is limited but not as much as others here.
When your body poops out, which should be around the beginning of December, just take 2-3 weeks off and restart the program in late December or early january. Those few weeks off are really good for me to relax and re-stoke the motivation.
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Post by korduroy on Sept 19, 2016 12:14:35 GMT -7
I guess I should clarify this better. This is all subsequent to the performance phase. My Performance phase kicks in next week, and should last until mid-late October. My plan mentioned above is for the 2 month gap between Cycle 1 and Cycle 2.
My actual cycles are based off the primary RCTM program for sport climbing.
And about me, I work full time as well (~50hr/week). 30 yrs old. climbing 4.5 years. Comfortable onsights at 12b, and flashes v8
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Post by MarkAnderson on Sept 19, 2016 13:18:10 GMT -7
I think that would work, though I'm not sure I would do the ARCing if I were focused entirely on bouldering. If you want to do it for the long-term benefits, it probably won't interfere, but I would cut it to one set, do it before the WBL as part of your warm-up and spend the extra time on your WBL and Campus. I'm barely warmed up after 15 minutes of campusing (and I'm definitely NOT warmed up after just 15 min of WBL).
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Post by korduroy on Sept 19, 2016 16:36:22 GMT -7
I think that would work, though I'm not sure I would do the ARCing if I were focused entirely on bouldering. If you want to do it for the long-term benefits, it probably won't interfere, but I would cut it to one set, do it before the WBL as part of your warm-up and spend the extra time on your WBL and Campus. I'm barely warmed up after 15 minutes of campusing (and I'm definitely NOT warmed up after just 15 min of WBL). that makes sense. i am kind of on the fence about ARCing during this off season. I think the ARC phase was probably the most profound and unexpected growth during this full cycle. im oddly psyched to keep it going. i will likely do some ARCing maybe every other week, but i will definitely take your advice and do it as my warmup, rather than cooldown. Thanks Mark!
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