nate
New Member
Posts: 15
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Post by nate on Jun 28, 2016 19:22:00 GMT -7
I followed the "trad" program for a cycle and saw good results. Goal was a 5 pitch 5.11 and I was mostly successful. Most of the improvement came from simply getting lots of outdoor mileage, but I was also definitely stronger than I've been in a long time.
I was fit enough to do any single pitch on the climb. But having to try hard 5 pitches in a row of climbing near my limit was exhausting. By the end I was very spent (I didn't have another 5 pitches in me).
I'd like to progress on some long routes with hard (for me) free climbing. Rostrum, Astroman, NIAD (obviously a bit different category).
I liked the results from my first training cycle, but I'm not sold on how relevant power and PE phases are for my goals. If the crux of the route is just being able to go hard for hours on end, what should the training look like?
Hangboarding seems good, get stronger so moves feel easier.
Does the same logic apply for power? Is campusing and limit bouldering really helping?
Route intervals? Seems ok? Though the pump from doing intervals isn’t quite the same as the fatigue from a long day.
My plan is to stick with a RCTM regimen for the most part, but do long outdoor mileage days on granite whenever my schedule allows.
Anyways. Anyone have input? Have you trained for routes like this, what did it look like? I'm almost certain I'm in over my head.
Thanks!
Edited to be more concise.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jul 2, 2016 17:28:14 GMT -7
Ya, I would agree that power training probably isn't going to be super helpful. I would focus on Base Fitness, with an emphasis on Outdoor Mileage, Strength and PE/Performance. Personally I've found that even outdoor sport climbing can be really helpful as long as the climbing is technical, not to steep, and you're getting many pitches in. Obviously doing 10 single-pitch sport climbs is not quite the same as being on the wall all day for a 10-pitch trad climb, but it's much more specific than bouldering on plastic. The nice thing about sport climbing is that routes are often more plentiful and dense so, it's relatively easy to cherry pick the grades/styles you want to "train" on.
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Post by Charlie S on Aug 8, 2016 18:05:36 GMT -7
I've skipped the power phase once before. That season I did maintenance hangboarding to keep the strength.
This year I've dropped campusing all together and have instead been working the Moonboard. I'd like to think it's keeping the strength built up from hangboarding. Plus it's fun.
Why not totally skip? Because my hangboarding was getting to the point of unbeneficial pain, and I still wanted a 17 week training cycle.
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Post by George Foster on Mar 27, 2018 13:26:28 GMT -7
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Post by climbnkev on Mar 28, 2018 21:55:35 GMT -7
I did a similar shortened cycle combining outdoor mileage and hangboarding a few years ago when training for a trip to the Valley to climb Astroman and West Face of El Cap. For the most part it was successful given my fitness level when I started. I struggled with the Enduro corner quite a bit, and felt a few days focusing on limit climbs would have been really helpful.
Just something to consider, but there is a reason guys like TC spend a lot of time Bouldering when training for long Valley climbs. The majority of pitches I have done in the Valley have bouldery cruxes and decent rests. So having extra power reserves and the PE to fight through to the next good rest is really useful. Obviously there are exceptions( Enduro Corner, and the Monster OW come to mind).
Training for the NIAD is a completely different animal. I feel cardio fitness combined with sufferfest climbing sessions is the best use of your training time.
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