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Post by jerry123 on May 4, 2016 12:08:15 GMT -7
It seems that Route Intervals and LBC's are very different but both are good for PE. With LBC's the set time is much shorter and you never coming off the wall. It seems Route Intervals are similiar to doing ARCing with an auto-belay incorrectly(too intense and coming off the wall). Too intense for ARCing and not intense enough for PE.
Can anyone explain this?
Thanks
P.S. I mostly trad climb
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Post by MarkAnderson on May 4, 2016 17:08:07 GMT -7
If it feels like ARCing then you need to find a harder route to do intervals on. You should definitely get pumped during each set. Also, LBCs and RIs are intended for different types of goals. LBC's are better for short, powerful routes while RIs work better for long endure lines. If your goal is Chain Reaction, do LBCs. If your goal is Heinous Cling, RIs.
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Post by jerry123 on May 4, 2016 18:56:55 GMT -7
Great, thanks
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Post by joecoov on May 5, 2016 7:46:04 GMT -7
It seems that Route Intervals and LBC's are very different but both are good for PE. With LBC's the set time is much shorter and you never coming off the wall. It seems Route Intervals are similiar to doing ARCing with an auto-belay incorrectly(too intense and coming off the wall). Too intense for ARCing and not intense enough for PE. Can anyone explain this? Thanks P.S. I mostly trad climb Jerry I have a question for you: I have encountered people who think that a set of the Route Intervals is doing the same route back to back to back, with the only rest being lowering down and one set being 4 laps. They than try to do this 3 or 4 more times and cannot do it once grade above their onsite. Mark: Is an set of Route intervals doing the route once, or multiple times? Looking through the book, it is left a little ambiguous, but when I looked up Horst and others they confirmed my theory that you do the route in question once, rest than repeat the sequence 3 more times almost like a 1x4. -Joe |
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Post by jerry123 on May 5, 2016 10:26:14 GMT -7
Yeah, that is my impression of how it is done but rather than focusing on number of laps, you focus on time. You can down climb but I have found that to be difficult. That was kind of my question because it seems RI is half way between ARCing and LBC. Both ARCing and LBC it is a problem to touch down so thats why I was wondering about RI. Pg 153 to 156 talks about intensity levels/time/# of moves and duty cycle which I'm about to review.
To be honest, i have really neglected PE up until this point because of time and problems doing a LBC at my gym. What I just started doing is a ARC routine(15×3) on a auto belay concentrating on using small feet placememts and then I do REALLY hard TRing with my partner. It ends up being a 1.5 duty cycle. I only do one climb and then we switch off. I will try you move towards doing them twice and then increase the difficulty. After TRing I do lock offs on a system wall. That is my "PE" routine.
Don't know if that is good but it is what I am doing. I haven't been able to periodize so I do the one "PE" routine plus two hangboard routines a week. If I climb outdoors I cut out the "PE" routine because of time factors(I can do hangboard at work).
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Post by joecoov on May 5, 2016 10:40:27 GMT -7
Yeah, that is my impression of how it is done but rather than focusing on number of laps, you focus on time. You can down climb but I have found that to be difficult. That was kind of my question because it seems RI is half way between ARCing and LBC. Both ARCing and LBC it is a problem to touch down so thats why I was wondering about RI. Pg 153 to 156 talks about intensity levels/time/# of moves and duty cycle which I'm about to review. To be honest, i have really neglected PE up until this point because of time and problems doing a LBC at my gym. What I just started doing is a ARC routine(15×3) on a auto belay concentrating on using small feet placememts and then I do REALLY hard TRing with my partner. It ends up being a 1.5 duty cycle. I only do one climb and then we switch off. I will try you move towards doing them twice and then increase the difficulty. After TRing I do lock offs on a system wall. That is my "PE" routine. Don't know if that is good but it is what I am doing. I haven't been able to periodize so I do the one "PE" routine plus two hangboard routines a week. If I climb outdoors I cut out the "PE" routine because of time factors(I can do hangboard at work). For PE, I believe you are supposed to do a route you know, ~1 grade above your on-sight level. If it took 2 minutes to complete, rest 4 minutes, than get back on and repeat. Than the next session you rest only 3 minutes between each set, than the next session 2 minutes and so on. Eric Horst describes it on the link below. www.nicros.com/training/articles/training-muscular-endurance-part-1/-Joe |
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Post by MarkAnderson on May 5, 2016 13:19:35 GMT -7
One set = one lap on the route. Though like Jerry said, it really comes down to TUT. Depending on the length of your training route and the length of your goal route, you may need to do more than a single lap up to reach the desired TUT.
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Post by cirquebound on May 25, 2016 7:49:27 GMT -7
I liked a couple of these workout's for PE. I have been doing 4by4's which can be brutal (mentally). Thanks! |
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