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Post by wellhung on Jan 25, 2016 9:02:06 GMT -7
Anyone have any good tips for training around tennis elbow? I've already started doing lots of tricep and push work, shoulders, core etc. Crimping and pinching is out of the question, but has anyone successfully trained open handed on a fingerboard with this ailment? Or am I best off spending the entire winter doing high volume low intensity work?
Aside: Two years ago it was a pulley injury, last year it was swollen dip joints, now crimping injury is tennis elbow. It seems that no matter how carefully I train crimping I get hurt!
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Post by Lundy on Jan 25, 2016 9:12:46 GMT -7
Google Dr. Julian Saunders' article from Rock and Ice a few years ago called "Dodgy Elbows". In my experience (n=1, of course) doing these elbow exercises every day has allowed me to train pain free regardless of the activity (HB, campus, boulder, resistance training, whatever...), in spite of the fact that I was suffering from some pretty significant elbow pain a few years ago. Note, though, that I was suffering from pain on the medial side (golfers elbow), so you might have some different results.
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Post by wellhung on Jan 25, 2016 9:37:17 GMT -7
Thanks Lundy. I'm doing every exercise advertised for treating tennis elbow many times a day, and icing at night. I cannot boulder or campus without pain and the feeling I am causing more damage. Lower intensity climbing (e.g. up to 11+) seems OK as long as there is no intense crimping or pinching crux.
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Post by slimshaky on Jan 25, 2016 12:38:41 GMT -7
definitely avoid campusing like the plague if your elbows are bothering you. i would also be cautious about high volume low intensity - it is really easy to push it into high volume medium intensity, which probably won't help the situation. elbows are weird - climbing that seems easy pump wise or grade wise can really bug the elbows.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jan 25, 2016 14:26:32 GMT -7
When attempting to climb through elbow issues, I would argue steepness is the key parameter (not grade, length, etc). Often relatively easy/juggy-yet-steep terrain can be much more damaging than vertical-or-less terrain that is more difficult. So if you want to climb while you work on re-habbing your elbows, climb stuff that isn't steep and take the opportunity to learn how to weight your feet.
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Post by daustin on Jan 25, 2016 15:15:21 GMT -7
Thanks Lundy. I'm doing every exercise advertised for treating tennis elbow many times a day, and icing at night. I cannot boulder or campus without pain and the feeling I am causing more damage. Lower intensity climbing (e.g. up to 11+) seems OK as long as there is no intense crimping or pinching crux. Are you doing the ones from Dodgy Elbows? Make sure to check it out if you haven't already, I don't think all of those exercises are very well advertised elsewhere. I've had spouts of moderate elbow pain over the years. My most recent flare was the most severe, but doing the exercise from Dodgy Elbows for the pronator teres has made a world of different. Basically, you have your arm on a bench, and hold a dumbbell that has weight only on one end (a heavy hammer, a wine bottle, or other similar shaped items can also work in a pinch). You start holding the dumbbell so it's pointing straight up, and then slowly rotate your wrist so the dumbbell becomes parallel with the floor and your palm facing up. Then use your other hand to re-set the dumbbell so it's straight up again, and repeat 3 sets of 8 reps 2x a day. No other advertised golfers/tennis elbow exercises have targeted that muscle as specifically, and apparently for me, that muscle is basically the sole culprit of my elbow pain. The first time I tried lowering the weight (er... the wine bottle) it was like searing pain in the PT. After a few months of this, doing this with a wine bottle is totally effortless and I now actually need a real dumbbell so I can add more weight. My elbow pain isn't totally gone, but it's improved substantially and is still getting better. If it turns out your PT isn't to blame this will be moot, but it's worth exploring! |
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Post by wellhung on Jan 26, 2016 10:52:08 GMT -7
Yes, I'm doing eccentrics as described in the Dodgy elbows article, bent arm, rotating palm down, some pain (haven't tried it with a bottle of wine); Flexbar reverse wrist curl eccentrics, moderately painful until warmed up; push ups;tricep extension. Been about 7 weeks, with about 3 weeks off climbing entirely that saw things get worse rather than better.
Has anyone successful successfully done a hangboard routine with open hand grips only while suffering from tennis elbow, and lived to climb again?
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Post by amalec on Jan 26, 2016 11:00:35 GMT -7
Successful tennis elbow rehab for me consisted of:
Turkish getups (magic)
Pushups
Theraband flexbar
Dumbbell eccentrics
Continued to hangboard through.
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