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Post by Charlie S on Jan 13, 2016 20:32:22 GMT -7
I was warmed up and starting to climb an overhanging route.
The route involved a 1.5 pad "mini jug" on near horizontal terrain.
I grabbed the hold (right hand), stabilized, pulled in to move the left hand, heard 3 pops in the last knuckle of the middle ring finger (right hand) and instinctively let go. No crimping, it was open handed (as open handed as you can get hanging horizontally).
I have pain when I press against or apply a load to the finger. Minimal (though there is a little) swelling.
No problems extending the finger. Flexing motion is about 95%, and then there is pain if I push on the finger to fully close.
I don't think it's an A4 rupture since there is no bow-stringing or other typical pain associated with that. However, the soreness is definitely on the palmar side of the finger in the region of the A4.
Based on some research, I think I essentially "popped" my DIP joint, but I'm having a hard time finding any information on that kind of injury from climbing.
Any ideas?
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Post by daustin on Jan 25, 2016 15:05:53 GMT -7
Weirdly enough, very similar thing happened to me today. Was doing a fingery boulder problem, and heard a pop as I sent it. Felt no pain and wasn't really sure what popped so I finished the problem. Apparently it was my pinky finger, which I didn't even realize I was using on the climb!
Now I have some pain on the palmar side of the A4 pulley, but no pain over A2. I haven't noticed any swelling or bowstringing, and my range of motion is pretty similar to what you're describing. I've never had a pulley injury before, but it sounds like this was likely a low-grade partial tear of the A4?
How have things progressed for you, Charlie? I'm not looking forward to having to start my first round of finger rehab... Light hangboarding ahoy!
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Post by Charlie S on Jan 25, 2016 17:12:29 GMT -7
So progression: I can now open jars whereas before I had to switch to my non-dominant hand.
Other than that, the pain has localized to the A4, no longer the DIP. The finger is still visibly swollen, but not by much.
I'm now 2 weeks and this is definitely not just a strain. I'm reasonably certain it's a partial tear and I'm going to get it diagnosed this week. That will dictate the recovery strategy.
Did some brushing up on finger injuries in "Make or Break" and pinged a climber/anatomy friend of mine. Essentially:
If a strain, ice for two weeks and then light hangboard therapy. 4-6 weeks recovery.
If a tear, it's ice, laying off of the finger for closer to 4 weeks before loading. 1-3 months recovery.
Arg! Guess it's time to use the skis.
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Post by Charlie S on Jan 28, 2016 14:00:37 GMT -7
Went and got it diagnosed. Grade II strain of the flexor digitorum profundus and superfiRCTMkicksAss, and A4 pulley. (Sorry, I probably botched all those spellings.) Which would coincide with the 3-ish pops/cracks I heard at time of injury.
Estimated 6 weeks recovery from time of injury. Need to spend the coming weeks on reducing swelling. No climbing  Hot/cold baths for the hand, massaging, icing, range of motion exercises, and some isometrics.
EDIT: Some other interesting things of note: -I now have a thermoplast "ring" around the whole bone to help the tendon heal tighter, rather than stretched out. -I have to wear a compression sleeve for the finger at night. This is to bring the swelling down.
These last two I hadn't found in any online references for climbing finger injuries. Will let you know how that progresses.
Side note: my left handed closed grip strength is 152 pounds! Damaged hand (right) was about 130. Open grip was about 110 (left) to 90 (right).
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Post by MarkAnderson on Feb 1, 2016 13:34:25 GMT -7
I don't know anything, but 6 weeks sounds like a long time to do just the activities listed above. Am I reading that right? You would do just the "No climbing Hot/cold baths for the hand, massaging, icing, range of motion exercises, and some isometrics." for 6 weeks, then presumably you could start some kind of training? If so, I would consider something more aggressive than that as long as everything is going well. On the other hand, if you mean you will be 100% back to normal in 6 weeks, I would say that is incredibly optimistic. |
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Post by Charlie S on Feb 2, 2016 20:25:19 GMT -7
I don't know anything, but 6 weeks sounds like a long time to do just the activities listed above. Am I reading that right? You would do just the "No climbing Hot/cold baths for the hand, massaging, icing, range of motion exercises, and some isometrics." for 6 weeks, then presumably you could start some kind of training? If so, I would consider something more aggressive than that as long as everything is going well. On the other hand, if you mean you will be 100% back to normal in 6 weeks, I would say that is incredibly optimistic. No, it's 3 weeks of those since I waited 3 weeks to get it diagnosed. It's still swollen, and sore at the FDP attachments. (Full contracture of the middle finger is still shy.) I think after my next appointment next week things will increase. I do not expect 100% at 6 weeks. From there it'll be light hangboarding to get things back into working shape. |
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Post by daustin on Feb 4, 2016 14:07:05 GMT -7
FYI -- I got a few of those little "acupressure rings" for massaging my finger a few months ago. They're cheap so I figured I might as well try them out. Now that I have an actual finger injury, I think they're an excellent tool. I use mine on the affected finger for a few minutes at a time, and afterward my finger is warm and tingly and full of blood. Like many things, I don't know for sure if this actually works -- but it feels good and is quite cost-effective, so I have to say it's worth a try. www.amazon.com/Goda-Acupressure-Massage-Rings-Chart/dp/B00G2G22IO |
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Hot/cold baths for the hand, massaging, icing, range of motion exercises, and some isometrics.