Rest phase shoulder pain

[erick]

This is the second cycle now that once performance is over and I am no longer climbing at all I am starting to feel some shoulder/upper arm pain is very specific arm positions.

The pain is felt mostly in my left arm, but occasionally in the right. The pain is located not actually in the shoulder but on the upper/outside portion of the arm just below the shoulder. The pain is more of a sharpness the soreness and occurs when I move the arm into the position of grabbing something off the left side of my harness. I think this is usually a symptom of "shoulder impingement" but I am likely wrong. The only time I felt any pain like this while training was for a brief portion of my strength cycle but proper hang board technique and a good warmup seemed to clear it up. I also felt great during my whole performance phase.

Have any of you experienced any type of post performance injury? Also if you have felt this type of pain before do you have any rehab advice?

Eric

[MarkAnderson]

Sounds like it's definitely time to incorporate some should prehab exercises into your daily life. I would search some of the shoulder impingement threads and come up with 2-4 range of motion/theraband exercises that you like and start doing them at least every training day. I do three, and I do them without resistance nearly every day whenever I think about it (could be sitting in the office, while out for a walk, while watching TV, etc). I also do them on training days with a theraband. I would say doing them regularly without resistance is more helpful than doing them less frequently with a theraband, but both have merits. The former has kept me healthy, while the latter has made me stronger.

[tango]

I've started doing something similar to what Mark describes over the last months since tweaking both of my shoulders during training. I will say, despite being skeptical about doing rehab-like exercises without equipment and without resistance, that I do feel it has made a significant difference. Particularly since I can do them during my lunch break, while running errands, etc. I tend to do them a few times a day, every day, and it's something I plan to continue for the foreseeable future. I would easily recommend it.

[jtcragger]

Can you recommend a source for info on shoulder exercises?

[tango]

The Rock Climber's Training Manual has a section on 'Supplemental Exercises' that are of use.

Internal rotation and external rotations with a Theraband are useful. For strengthening I've started using TRX T's, I's, and Y's (a quick youtube search will make these very clear), though I'm not sure they would be the best bet for rehab as opposed to strengthening.

Otherwise, range of motion exercises without resistance are also useful. Shoulder rolls, front and side raises, rotations, etc.

[MarkAnderson]

Jan 8, 2016 13:09:57 GMT -7 jtcragger said:

Can you recommend a source for info on shoulder exercises?

Review this thread: rockprodigytraining.proboards.com/thread/643/shoulder-impingement-recovery