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Post by cookienomster on Dec 15, 2015 23:19:24 GMT -7
Hi All!
For this cycle, I decided that my project for the performance phase would be an indoor route which i've been eyeing the last couple of weeks. it's winter here and nothing is accessible outdoors. I remember reading that during the PE phase, you'd want to get on your proj as much as you can, if possible, and I can get on my proj anytime since it's indoors. My question is how much time should i spend for this cycle projecting my route and how much time should be actual PE training? Whatever I decide for this PE cycle, i'm guessing it would be the same schedule for the Performance cycle since they're effectively the something?
Thanks in advance!
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Post by Chris W on Dec 16, 2015 6:25:38 GMT -7
I would shoot for at least one PE session per week, unless it was the last week of my performance phase. Then I'd pull out all the stops and try to send.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Dec 16, 2015 9:11:59 GMT -7
Interesting. This could be a good opportunity to experiment with on-route PE training. What is the route like? Is it continuous or cruxy? Are the grip types similar to what you might train for outside (assuming that overall you are still interested in improving at ROCKclimbing, you may want to mix in some non-indoor-proj-specific PE training if the indoor proj is not very realistic)?
If the route is reasonably continuous, and I thought it was as realistic as anything else I might train on, then I would try doing an interval workout on the route. To do that, split the route into 2-4 sections. Climb each section, then rest a prescribed amount (hang on the rope, etc). Then climb the next section and so on. Progressively reduce the rest/hang time until you reach zero (in other words, send).
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Post by brendann on Dec 16, 2015 12:11:32 GMT -7
One useful tool I have found for indoor projects is the top-down method. Climb an easy route that overlaps your goal route until the last 3 bolts. Rest on the rope and then climb the top 3 bolts of your project. Keep adding one bolt on each attempt until you are two bolts from the ground, then start your redpoint attempts.
This helps you maintain good technique while you are pumped because the last moves of the route and the ones you have done the most.
It also tends to avoid the 'ceiling' that traditional redpoint attempts run into where you run out of stamina and start to make mistakes.
This is a really interesting technique that is generally only available in a gym.
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Post by jcm on Dec 17, 2015 18:59:56 GMT -7
One useful tool I have found for indoor projects is the top-down method. Climb an easy route that overlaps your goal route until the last 3 bolts. Rest on the rope and then climb the top 3 bolts of your project. Keep adding one bolt on each attempt until you are two bolts from the ground, then start your redpoint attempts. This helps you maintain good technique while you are pumped because the last moves of the route and the ones you have done the most. It also tends to avoid the 'ceiling' that traditional redpoint attempts run into where you run out of stamina and start to make mistakes. This is a really interesting technique that is generally only available in a gym. A very useful technique, and it is, in fact, available (and damn useful) on many outdoor routes too. With some bolt-to-bolting, draw pulling, and/or stickclipping shenanigans, you can pretty easily get positioned to start a "low-point" burn from the 5th bolt, or wherever. It's not exactly the same as what you describe (since you lose the effect of free climbing continuously from the ground), but pulling on draws and/or the rope to get to the 5th bolt isn't too terribly different from pulling on 10a jugs to get there. It seems a lot of sport climbers miss this idea for a long time. They'll be in the classic 1-hang purgatory where they climb from the ground to the 9th bolt, fall, hang for a second, and then climb to the top (doing this over and over again). When you then ask them if they have linked it from the 5th bolt to the top (and then from the 4th to to top, etc.), it turns out that they have never thought to do this. Anyway, you can think of there being two options: decreasing-rest links (where the link length stays the same, as Mark proposes), or increasing-length links (where you could, presumably, make sure to keep rest length fixed). I think that increasing-length links are a superior approach. On a PE route, hanging for just 5 seconds can make a world of difference, and going from a very short hang to not hanging can be a huge jump. This would be especially an issue if you were always hanging at a fixed location. Brendan's approach, which puts you at the crux carrying progressively more fatigue with each burn, seems like a better approach to modulate difficulty (on an indoor OR and outdoor project). |
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Post by cookienomster on Dec 17, 2015 23:08:54 GMT -7
Interesting. This could be a good opportunity to experiment with on-route PE training. What is the route like? Is it continuous or cruxy? Are the grip types similar to what you might train for outside (assuming that overall you are still interested in improving at ROCKclimbing, you may want to mix in some non-indoor-proj-specific PE training if the indoor proj is not very realistic)? If the route is reasonably continuous, and I thought it was as realistic as anything else I might train on, then I would try doing an interval workout on the route. To do that, split the route into 2-4 sections. Climb each section, then rest a prescribed amount (hang on the rope, etc). Then climb the next section and so on. Progressively reduce the rest/hang time until you reach zero (in other words, send). this is very interesting. so i'm trying to figure out how to lay this out in terms of an actual PE plan. so lets say i break up my indoor project into 2 sections where each has about 15 moves. if each section represents a set and each set would be completed in about a minute, this means i should do about 6-8 sets (according to your recommendations). so would a plan like this make sense? 1. climb 1st half of route 2. rest 3. climb 2nd half of route 4. lower down while resting 5. repeat 1 - 4, 2 more times ultimately i would aim to decrease the duty cycle to 1:0. thanks again! also if anyone else has suggestions for how to lay out the top down approach in terms of #of sets, what to climb for each set and the amount of rest then i'd be open to hearing those as well. |
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