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Post by Elvis K on Dec 9, 2015 6:56:05 GMT -7
I am planning to get on this during my trip in April. Does anyone have any beta or a V breakdown for the route?
I would like to start setting up my LBC to mimic this climb. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
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Post by brendann on Dec 9, 2015 10:29:18 GMT -7
Stick clip high first bolt. Climb onto garden/ledge/swamp and traverse left.
Climb 4-5 bolts of insecure, balancy, slappy, granite-style squeezing. V4. ~18 moves. 20-degrees overhung.
Traverse (airy, juggy, bad feet) left to rest, either standing on a sloping ledge or down climbing 4 moves and sitting on it.
Traverse up and right to the aréte on slopey crimps, pinches, and pockets. V4 ~10 moves. 30-degrees overhung.
Climb powerful, insecure moves past two hard clips. Heel hooks are crucial for clipping. V5 ~10 moves. 40-degrees overhung.
Transition back left onto the face and climb 10 moves of 5.12- on pockets, slopers, and slopey crimps to a gigantic flake at the anchors.
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Post by Lundy on Dec 9, 2015 10:34:48 GMT -7
Stick clip high first bolt. Climb onto garden/ledge/swamp and traverse left. Climb 4-5 bolts of insecure, balancy, slappy, granite-style squeezing. V4. ~18 moves. 20-degrees overhung. Traverse (airy, juggy, bad feet) left to rest, either standing on a sloping ledge or down climbing 4 moves and sitting on it. Traverse up and right to the aréte on slopey crimps, pinches, and pockets. V4 ~10 moves. 30-degrees overhung. Climb powerful, insecure moves past two hard clips. Heel hooks are crucial for clipping. V5 ~10 moves. 40-degrees overhung. Transition back left onto the face and climb 10 moves of 5.12- on pockets, slopers, and slopey crimps to a gigantic flake at the anchors. This is awesome. |
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Post by disturbingthepeace on Dec 9, 2015 17:31:05 GMT -7
Here's what I remember, slightly different beta than Brendann.
The bottom section looks a bit intimidating from the ground, however it is overhanging and the falls are clean.
No hands rest at first bolt, leads to some weird moves getting to the second. For me the single hardest move is at the second bolt, but I didn't really refine my beta on this section. If you are working it, maybe place a short draw here, and clean it, once above. I thought this move was hard V5.
Above this there are some small crimps, and a pinching and slopers section before getting to the rest.
For full value, try to stay close to the bolt line at the rest, but plenty of people traverse left where you can get a no hands kneebar.
From the rest, climb through cool pinches and crimps to a good jug on the arete, clip here. From here it's only two bolts to the anchors. Pull a bouldery section to get to the next bolt with some pinches on the arete. I clipped the next to last bolt with a dropknee stem in the dihedral. After clipping, pull the redpoint crux, with a big move into the undercling. I clipped the last bolt with another dropknee stem in the dihedral, but many people skip the last bolt. I didn't like how the rope ran in relation to my feet if I skipped it. Low end V5 thru this section. Afterwards climb 12- crimps and pockets, every move is slightly easier than the last until you get to a jug at the anchor.
So a long V5 start with a single hard move, to a rest, to a V4, V4, V5, V4.
Also, I've heard it seeps pretty bad in the spring, so might want to have a backup in mind.
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Post by daustin on Dec 9, 2015 17:41:10 GMT -7
this is like climbing smut… so good…
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Post by Elvis K on Dec 9, 2015 19:22:15 GMT -7
Thank you very much for the info brendann and disturbingthepeace. This is extremely helpful. I love this forum.
I tried to ask a few questions on redriverclimbing.com and I mostly got trolled.
My backup is probably going to be Silky Smooth.
Thanks again, you guys are awesome.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Dec 9, 2015 22:54:11 GMT -7
... This is extremely helpful. I love this forum. I tried to ask a few questions on redriverclimbing.com and I mostly got trolled. ... Thanks again, you guys are awesome. Your post makes me think of this: "Stages in the IMBL - Internet Message Board Lifecycle
1. Start up with an elite clique of personal/email friends. Discussions are very tight.
2. New people join and discussion is strictly on-topic and helpful. Lots of good information is passed around. Message board is in its prime.
3. Newbies arrive and post questions that have been answered before or are stupid questions. Some old-timers are helpful, some flame.
4. Flame war erupts because of off-topic posts or personal insults. Different expectations create conflicts of interest that cause even more flames.
5. People post messages to the effect they are leaving, maybe hoping for sympathy. "And I'm taking my ball with me" They don't actually leave, though, and remain to read the responses to their goodbyes, some returning briefly to flame people. (Go to stage 4) People compete for the most heart-wrenching goodbye. Some people just leave with no goodbyes. Some of them are missed, some not.
6. Things quieten down and the flames stop. Old-timers appeal for calm(!). People who 'left' come back and begin discussions again. Go to stage 2
7. People leave to start their own message board, splitting membership of the original board. The two new boards go through a period of insulting each other and either go to stage 2, 4 or simply cease to exist through lack of subscribers." I'm really surprised this board has remained positive and constructive for so long. I've long expected that I would have to moderate posts, ban IP addresses and all that bullshit, but I never have. It's really amazing. Enjoy Stage 2 while it lasts, it's just a matter of time before this becomes Rockclimbing.com  |
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Post by daustin on Dec 10, 2015 0:45:27 GMT -7
... This is extremely helpful. I love this forum. I tried to ask a few questions on redriverclimbing.com and I mostly got trolled. ... Thanks again, you guys are awesome. Your post makes me think of this: "Stages in the IMBL - Internet Message Board LifecycleThe good thing thing about this board is how much of a niche the subject matter is -- doesn't attract a lot of people, but the people it does attract are passionate and dedicated enough about climbing training to prevent it from becoming an off-topic cesspool. It's like the unicorn of message boards! |
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Post by Chris W on Dec 11, 2015 2:49:53 GMT -7
I usually stay away from internet forums and message boards, but this one is an exception. Like Elvis, I'm super happy the forum has remained positive and helpful. Especially that it has remained positive.
I also had to google what trolled meant.
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Post by Otis. on Dec 11, 2015 11:11:13 GMT -7
I agree with most of the responses that Kaleidoscope is mostly a typical Red route with stacked moderate boulder problems with minimal rests. However, for me the crux was up in the upper middle of the route, just below the last draw. You end up left of the draws and have to traverse back right. There are a lot of chalked holds up there and it took me a while to figure out a sequence that worked for me. I've seen that section done at least three different ways. I think the lowest portion of the route is a bit height dependent. If you're close to 6' tall or taller, the entry boulder problem is pretty casual. Good heel hooking and/or longer legs really help with one of the middle clips. As for climbing it in the spring, the lower portion will be wet, but it's always wet. Unless it has been raining relentlessly for several days, it should be dry enough to give it a go.
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Post by Elvis K on Dec 13, 2015 16:29:53 GMT -7
Thanks for all of the info. I will most certainly use all of this information to set an LBC accordingly. I am pretty psyched to get on this in April, just hope it's dry!
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Post by Elvis K on Aug 5, 2016 11:57:05 GMT -7
Didn't send in April with good conditions.
Just came back and sent with worse conditions and 5lbs heavier than last time!
So fn stoked!
Training went awesome. Now time for rest and lots of food.
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