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Post by HenryAB on Oct 16, 2015 12:17:32 GMT -7
In Dave MacLeod's new book (Make or Break), he recommends rehabing injuries with a high volume of low-intensity exercise. He says that it may be possible to still climb (or train for climbing) while rehabing, but it's more important to perform the high-volume, low-intensity rehab exercises.
What do you people think of that? In the RCTM book and on this forum, people have discussed using weight-asssisted hangboarding as a rehab technique (at least for pulley injuries). That seems like a different approach (low-volume, high-intensity).
Approach 1 to rehab might be to do weight-assisted hangboard exercises twice per week. Approach 2 (closer to what MacLeod discusses) might be to use theraputty, rubber bands, etc. for 20 minutes every day.
Do people think one approach is better?
I wonder if it makes sense to combine the approaches sequentially. Something like this:
Step 0: Injury Step 1: Rest Step 2: Range of motion exercises Step 3: Basic rehab exercises (theraputty etc.) Step 4: Weight-assisted hangboard progression
Thanks!
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Post by MarkAnderson on Oct 16, 2015 16:37:18 GMT -7
My initial thought is: this is the first time anyone has ever referred to our hangboard protocol as "low volume" I absolutely agree with the high-volume/low-intensity approach for rehab. I think any of our standard routines will better meet the high-volume parameter much better than 20 minutes of...whatever. The intensity can be adjusted to suit your needs. I could never be convinced to do an exercise of arbitrary and undefined intensity for finger rehab now that I know the power of hangboarding for rehab. YMMV though, 20 minutes of theraputty would certainly be much easier to do.
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Post by Chris W on Oct 16, 2015 17:00:36 GMT -7
I have yet to read Dave's new book, but it I have read 9 out of 10 Climbers. I have also read the RCTM. If Dave is recommending high volume of low intensity work, I believe that the Rock Prodigy method mirrors MacLeod's thoughts of rehab. I doubt that theraputty would be beneficial in this respect. My kids like playing with that stuff though.
I generally trust MacLeod's input. I feel that his book 9 out of 10 climbers is more philosophical in nature, while the RCTM is more concrete and practical. This is WHY we should do it vs. this is HOW we should do it vs. we DO it.
I believe the texts are complimentary.
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Post by Lundy on Oct 16, 2015 17:13:48 GMT -7
It's been a couple months since I've read Make or Break, and I'm too lazy to walk to the bookshelf to pick it up, but I think for finger injuries he recommended getting back to climbing to increase the blood flow to the injured area, even raising the intensity enough so you feel it and it's a bit painful (know pain or no pain, I think is the title of a chapter), but not so you overdo it and don't allow the injury to heal. In this context, I think the best way to stimulate blood flow to the fingers is probably hangboarding, so just take a lot more weight off and slowly add back until you get to the "I can feel it by I don't think I'm injuring myself further".
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