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Post by chemicalclimber on Oct 29, 2015 11:55:20 GMT -7
Yesterday I went bouldering, went alright. Took at shot at the blue project that has a ton of moves in the horizontal overhang. I've still got the sequence, up until the crux, down to an art. But the crux involves me pinching a very bad hold with my left hand that still has a sprained/dislocated finger. So I'm lacking a little pinching strength and it's holding me back, hopefully soon it'll be better.
On other notes, sunday I'm handing in my thesis. That'll be nice. I'm thinking real hard about quitting basketball all together to dedicate more time to climbing and training for climbing. I've decided to take a short break from basketball to see if I miss it or not.
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Post by chemicalclimber on Oct 30, 2015 13:29:52 GMT -7
Hi guys!
Just finished a great session. Of my 3 regular bouldering partners, 2 bailed so I went there with my friend who is a really good (technically sound) climber. The gym was almost completely empty (friday night at 7pm) so we could have a go at all the routes we wanted to. Warmed up on some of the yellow routes, then gave one of my four projects a shot. 'The Overhang'. Nailed it in my first try. Brilliant feeling! Then I went on to experiment on a bunch of crimpy routes before returning to 'The Overhang' to see if I could do it slightly more tired. Nailed it again. This was only the third time total that I've sent that problem. Just before leaving we decided to head over to the slab to tale on my slabby project 'Black Slabbath'. I don't entirely trust my feet on these tiny holds all the time, but today I decided to just go all in on my feet. I managed to send 'Black Slabbath' in about 5 or 6 tries. Always feels great to solve a problem you've never tried before!
Tomorrow, half of the gym will have the holds removed and the routesetters will make all new problems for a small bouldering comp on wednesday. Can't wait to see what they have in store for us! Tonights session really got me psyched for more climbing in the future!
Have a great weekend!
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Post by chemicalclimber on Nov 1, 2015 7:24:47 GMT -7
So, I just handed in my thesis.
Celebrated by going bouldering. Half the gym was stripped so the other half was full of people. I still managed to send a lot of routes and had some pretty good success although it was a little boring going by myself. Wednesday the other half of the gym will reopen, but I've decided to go rope-climbing instead of taking part in the competition. Hopefully soon, I'll try out the new problems!
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Post by chemicalclimber on Nov 5, 2015 12:18:23 GMT -7
Monday I passed my seakayak 'cold water test', this means that now I'm free to go kayaking without my coach.
Tueday I took a day off and celebrated my thesis with my former roommates.
Yesterday the bouldering gym was closed due to a bouldering competition, I went rope climbing a little. It's not easy when you're used to just bouldering, your arms just get zapped really, really fast. Also, mentally it's a little more intimidating. Did a lead on a easy route and toproped two harder routes. Then I had to go on a date.
Tomorrow morning I'll get to try out the new problems on section 3 at NKK, can't wait!
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Post by chemicalclimber on Nov 6, 2015 5:32:22 GMT -7
So this morning I overslept and got to the gym a little late. This also means that I had to climb alone cause my buddies got there on time and had left already.
The routesetters put up a whole new set on sections 2 and 3. This means new routes on both slab, vertical and overhang. I only had time to go over the yellow routes, flashed most of them except one on the vert/slab that consisted of two big pinches and some really small slopers. Gotta get that body tonus and positioning right. After that I worked on some blue routes. Didn't go really well, my pinky is still hurting. I wonder if it was broken or it's just hurting from not getting more than 24 hours unbroken rest at any time..
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Post by chemicalclimber on Nov 20, 2015 11:55:27 GMT -7
So, I had a minor setback. I was climbing one day, when all of a sudden my left knee locked up and I took an awkward fall. Looks like it might be a torn meniscus. Knee is still swollen so I have to wait a little while to get a proper diagnosis. Looks like I might be starting my hangboarding / campusboarding before I anticipated it.
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Post by jetjackson on Jan 1, 2016 19:38:08 GMT -7
What's the go with your knee? You haven't given up on your goal have you?
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Post by chemicalclimber on Jan 24, 2016 0:36:49 GMT -7
Hej JJ
I still don't have a diagnosis, the Danish welfare system doesn't act very fast on these non-life-threatening injuries. I had an MRI last Thursday and I'm awaiting my results. At the moment I'm seeing my physio every 2-3 weeks to make sure my body is in the best condition possible be it for rehab or surgery. Unfortunately this also means that I haven't been able to climb since November 20th. In order to make sure I'm somewhat conditioned for a return, I'm doing a lot of upper body strength work. Ring rows, chin ups and pullups (+antagonist work) as well as core work. Once per week I go to the local climbing gym and get in a little bit of hangboarding (but it mostly just depresses me to see all the happy people climbing).
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Post by chemicalclimber on Mar 11, 2016 3:04:26 GMT -7
I'm back and quickly approaching my old level of climbing despite having put on a few extra pounds. Fingers are getting stronger, the knee is still a little wonky - but shouldn't be anything some rehab and patience can't fix. Me and my friends have booked flights for Fontainebleu in the summertime. There's no way back. Glory or bust!
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Post by iclimb2improve on Mar 11, 2016 10:03:51 GMT -7
I'm back and quickly approaching my old level of climbing despite having put on a few extra pounds. Fingers are getting stronger, the knee is still a little wonky - but shouldn't be anything some rehab and patience can't fix. Me and my friends have booked flights for Fontainebleu in the summertime. There's no way back. Glory or bust! Good to hear your knee is a lot better and that you haven't given up on your goal! Have fun in Fontainebleu!
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