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Post by joshvillen on Sept 16, 2015 7:46:13 GMT -7
Anyone have experience training their front two fingers (pointer and middle) while their ring finger is hurt
Would it slow down my recovery at all
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Post by Lundy on Sept 16, 2015 9:03:46 GMT -7
Josh - I posted here a couple weeks ago about some funky pain I was feeling in my ring finger at the start of my strength cycle. I chose to train IM, as well as adjust the problems I worked so that I wasn't feeling the pain on the ring finger, and the pain subsided within about 2-3 weeks. I never did add MR back to the hangboard routine to be careful, but I'm now campusing and bouldering hard with no thought of the finger. Obviously, the effectiveness of this approach will be a function of what sort of injury your ring finger has sustained, but my experience was limited impact on a quick recovery, and now climbing and campusing hard.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Sept 16, 2015 10:29:07 GMT -7
I would guess it depends somewhat on how sever the R injury is, and how independently you are able to actuate your fingers. For most people, if you attempt to flex one finger, adjacent fingers will move as well (I could go on about this for a while...).
If I had a severe R finger injury, I would be concerned that training IM would result in inadvertently flexing my R finger in some excessive way. Perhaps you could mitigate this risk by figuring out a clever way to immobilize your R finger.
So to answer your question, it could slow down recovery if you happen to re-aggravate it during the IM training. If you could avoid that, I think it could possibly accelerate recovery by improving blood flow to the general vicinity (your fingers).
All that said, I don't think it would be worth the risk. I can't imagine much upside to training the healthy fingers if you're going to be limited by your injured finger. Take the long view, get yourself healthy, and then go from there.
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Post by joshvillen on Sept 16, 2015 10:51:23 GMT -7
I would guess it depends somewhat on how sever the R injury is, and how independently you are able to actuate your fingers. For most people, if you attempt to flex one finger, adjacent fingers will move as well (I could go on about this for a while...). If I had a severe R finger injury, I would be concerned that training IM would result in inadvertently flexing my R finger in some excessive way. Perhaps you could mitigate this risk by figuring out a clever way to immobilize your R finger. So to answer your question, it could slow down recovery if you happen to re-aggravate it during the IM training. If you could avoid that, I think it could possibly accelerate recovery by improving blood flow to the general vicinity (your fingers). All that said, I don't think it would be worth the risk. I can't imagine much upside to training the healthy fingers if you're going to be limited by your injured finger. Take the long view, get yourself healthy, and then go from there. And If I have full range of motion with no pain? The pain is at the base of my finger (somewhere between a1-a2), its only painful under tension or using a stapler hahaha. It's been really hard to narrow down exactly what will aggravate it and sometimes it feels like the pinky is more of the problem |
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Post by MarkAnderson on Sept 16, 2015 13:04:22 GMT -7
... its only painful ...or using a stapler hahaha...and sometimes it feels like the pinky is more of the problem Tell me more about this. How are you using the stapler? What kind of stapler (staple gun?)? I ask because it could be caused by fascia between the ring and pinky fingers...in which case it's not a problem. |
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Post by slimshaky on Sept 16, 2015 13:40:19 GMT -7
... its only painful ...or using a stapler hahaha...and sometimes it feels like the pinky is more of the problem Tell me more about this. How are you using the stapler? What kind of stapler (staple gun?)? I ask because it could be caused by fascia between the ring and pinky fingers...in which case it's not a problem. yeah, this brings up a quick thought - sometimes when you are training fairly hard on the IM grip, it can make the fascia (web) between the middle and ring fingers feel pretty uncomfortable. i think it puts a lot of shear on it when you curl in the ring finger. so, i am not sure i would go all-out on this grip. |
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Post by joshvillen on Sept 16, 2015 14:10:21 GMT -7
... its only painful ...or using a stapler hahaha...and sometimes it feels like the pinky is more of the problem Tell me more about this. How are you using the stapler? What kind of stapler (staple gun?)? I ask because it could be caused by fascia between the ring and pinky fingers...in which case it's not a problem. An actual stapler, for binding papers together. I could see it being the fascia between the ring and pinky but when its under load it doesnt feel like a pain I can just push through, I saw you recommend to someone else that working it out on a hangboard might be the way to go. It feels like a nagging tweak that wont go away but it seems to be more pressure sensitive than tension sensitive (jugs and incuts hurt regardless of intensity) |
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