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Post by erick on Aug 14, 2015 15:00:56 GMT -7
Has anyone else gotten this book yet? climbinginjuriessolved.comIt is a bit expensive but so far I have found the info in it to be a really helpful and fresh look at climbing injuries. I have to say the only problem I have with it so far is that there is TOO much info to take in. The author also has a pretty good youtube channel where she demonstrates different taping methods and exercises for injuries. If you have looked into the book I am curious what your thoughts are. Eric
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Post by MarkAnderson on Aug 17, 2015 12:28:32 GMT -7
Does the book say what Dr. Lisa's credentials are? I can't find any on the website.
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Post by slimshaky on Aug 17, 2015 15:18:26 GMT -7
i think she might be a chiropractor(?). my wife used her for a while for her bum foot and liked her quite a bit. there is a pretty bad ass photo of some serious guns in an ice bath in the book... lolz...
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Post by Lundy on Aug 17, 2015 19:43:34 GMT -7
I haven't picked up that book, but I really liked Dave MacLeod's new book about climbing injuries, for what it's worth.
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Post by jorgemendoza on Aug 20, 2015 8:16:31 GMT -7
I have the book. It is an interesting book, with a different perspective from Dave MacLeod's Make or Break. I really like Make or Break. I find it more enjoyable to read, and with information that goes from useful to educational. However, I am not making justice here in regards to Climbing Injuries Solved book, as I have read just a few chapters. But, I have found the book as a useful source of information for self-care. It is geared more towards preventing injuries, recovering your muscles and rehab of some injuries. Basically, it is a TLC kind of approach. Again, take this info with much salt.
Now, Make or Break gives you more scientific information (i.e., papers), PLUS the anecdotal experience of Dave MacLeod, rehab exercises, etc. It even tells you how to clip your toe nails! (yup, I was doing it wrong!)
Let me tell you about my experience with both books in regards to an ankle injury which I suffered a couple of months ago. I thought it was a sprained ankle, but it was a little bit more. It was also a cartilage injury. Below is what the books did for me.
- Climbing Injuries Solved: I couldn't find anything useful that would describe my injury.
- Make or Break: When I read about cartilage injuries in lower body section, it told me all I wanted to know about it, plus recommendations on how to proceed with my treatment.
Hope this helps.
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Post by erick on Aug 25, 2015 11:35:01 GMT -7
Does the book say what Dr. Lisa's credentials are? I can't find any on the website. Surprisingly I could not find it in her book but I found it on the website for her office in Boulder, lifesportchiro.com/about/"Dr. Lisa Palmer-West College of Chiropractic Alumni with a specialization in Sports Chiropractic and Chiropractic Biomechanics of Posture. She also has a BS in CellularBiology & Neuroscience from MSU-Bozeman and additional Xray Diagnostic training." I have read through the book now and I do think its a really good resource but is not a encyclopedia of injuries and how to fix them. The book has more of a focus understanding what you body in doing which caused the injury and how you can prevent injury with self massage, taping, icing, etc. She definitely steps away from the standard recover plan of just strengthening oppositions muscles.
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erk
Junior Member
Posts: 83
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Post by erk on Aug 28, 2015 17:59:35 GMT -7
I believe she just did a training beta podcast, and from what I remember I didn't gather too much from it. She did make an interesting point that climbers often have weaker forearm extensors than the general public and that climbers should spend some time strengthening these muscles. I haven't bothered doing. Ever since I've been on a regular program I haven't had to deal with any injuries.
Otherwise staying hydrated, getting adequate rest and warming up properly are paramount for staying injury free.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Aug 28, 2015 18:46:31 GMT -7
[she said] climbers often have weaker forearm extensors than the general public Huh? How did she determine that? I find that very hard to believe.
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erk
Junior Member
Posts: 83
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Post by erk on Aug 30, 2015 20:34:29 GMT -7
[she said] climbers often have weaker forearm extensors than the general public Huh? How did she determine that? I find that very hard to believe. No idea. She get's into it about 26 minutes into her podacst...
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Post by jessebruni on Aug 31, 2015 8:32:29 GMT -7
Why would a climber's, or any athlete's, (insert muscle here) be weaker than the general public?
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Post by MarkAnderson on Aug 31, 2015 8:40:01 GMT -7
Why would a climber's, or any athlete's, (insert muscle here) be weaker than the general public? I might buy it if the muscle in question related to opening beer cans, operating a remote control, etc. Opening a pop top beer can does require some forearm extensor strength
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Post by jessebruni on Aug 31, 2015 11:27:37 GMT -7
Seriously though, opening any can is so much harder after a day of climbing and my fingertips are raw. I always find myself trying to dig what passes as my fingernails under the tab to pry it up a bit so I can hopefully pop the top. I know it's been a good climbing session if I resort to using my teeth...
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Post by MarkAnderson on Aug 31, 2015 14:40:40 GMT -7
Haha, ya, I use car keys or some other non-finger object to pry up the tab. I'm super paranoid about cutting my fingers. I've had a lot of "...that was stupid" moments in my life.
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Post by cirquebound on Jan 24, 2017 10:22:15 GMT -7
Haha, ya, I use car keys or some other non-finger object to pry up the tab. I'm super paranoid about cutting my fingers. I've had a lot of "...that was stupid" moments in my life. This may sound stupid, BUT I recently learned that you can push the center of the tab with your thumb and it lifts the tab and you can easily open your beer without worry I used to use my car keys, but then a friend showed me this
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jan 24, 2017 19:15:52 GMT -7
Finally got something useful out of this thread
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