Post by Lundy on Aug 1, 2015 20:22:01 GMT -7
Hey all,
Quick background -- been climbing for about 20 years, am 40 y/o, and pushing into mid-.13. In May and June I did a bridge cycle with just a strength and power phase, and because I wasn't aiming at anything outside and figured I could push hard, I did a good bit more campusing than usual (1-3.5-6 on small rungs). In my last campus workout I got a pretty severe pain distal of the last joint in my left ring finger. I took about three weeks off (planned rest before starting my fall cycle), and started up with about a week and a half of ARCing with no pain. However, now that I'm back on the HB phase (I typically do about 45 minutes of WBL/LB as warmup), I can really feel it. I've had standard finger injuries before, and this is not them, so wondering if anyone has any ideas about what it might be and therefore treatment protocols. The details are significant pain on the middle finger side of the finger (sort of in the "edge" between the last pad and side of my finger), distal of the last joint, but only when I'm pulling on a hold that is incut, such that my finger is wrapped into it. So I can crimp with no pain, can mostly manage the pain on the bouldering wall, and could perform almost my whole HB workout with no pain (including crimp and outside edge of SVDR), but the MR pocket was excruciating (not surprisingly) - I stopped half way into the first rep.
Any thoughts what this might be? Do the finger flexor tendons attach there and could it be something with them? What's so weird is I can go quite hard on it (i.e. V7-V8) with nothing, but if I grab a bigger, incut hold that "pulls the joint apart", for lack of a better way to put it, the pain is ridiculous, in spite of the fact that it's not in the joint, but distal to it. Strange.
Any ideas and thoughts would be super helpful. My current plan is to take MR out of this HB phase, manage the pain while training, and still try to have a run at my goal route this fall, but would still like some thoughts if people have them.
Thanks, everyone.
Eric
Quick background -- been climbing for about 20 years, am 40 y/o, and pushing into mid-.13. In May and June I did a bridge cycle with just a strength and power phase, and because I wasn't aiming at anything outside and figured I could push hard, I did a good bit more campusing than usual (1-3.5-6 on small rungs). In my last campus workout I got a pretty severe pain distal of the last joint in my left ring finger. I took about three weeks off (planned rest before starting my fall cycle), and started up with about a week and a half of ARCing with no pain. However, now that I'm back on the HB phase (I typically do about 45 minutes of WBL/LB as warmup), I can really feel it. I've had standard finger injuries before, and this is not them, so wondering if anyone has any ideas about what it might be and therefore treatment protocols. The details are significant pain on the middle finger side of the finger (sort of in the "edge" between the last pad and side of my finger), distal of the last joint, but only when I'm pulling on a hold that is incut, such that my finger is wrapped into it. So I can crimp with no pain, can mostly manage the pain on the bouldering wall, and could perform almost my whole HB workout with no pain (including crimp and outside edge of SVDR), but the MR pocket was excruciating (not surprisingly) - I stopped half way into the first rep.
Any thoughts what this might be? Do the finger flexor tendons attach there and could it be something with them? What's so weird is I can go quite hard on it (i.e. V7-V8) with nothing, but if I grab a bigger, incut hold that "pulls the joint apart", for lack of a better way to put it, the pain is ridiculous, in spite of the fact that it's not in the joint, but distal to it. Strange.
Any ideas and thoughts would be super helpful. My current plan is to take MR out of this HB phase, manage the pain while training, and still try to have a run at my goal route this fall, but would still like some thoughts if people have them.
Thanks, everyone.
Eric