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Post by Lundy on Jul 31, 2015 12:18:04 GMT -7
Someone mentioned earlier the question of how warmed up people are, which I didn't hear anyone get back to. If you're struggling on the matching and basic ladders, but then completing some max ladders, a lack of warm-up would be my first guess. I typically climb for almost an hour before hitting the campus board, and even then I start with simple ladders (1-2.5-4; 1-3-5) as "warm-up" (even though I'm already an hour into my session) before trying anything that's hard for me. Maybe you just need to put more time into getting to your peak for that particular session?
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Post by lvcrimping on Jul 31, 2015 20:08:19 GMT -7
I am facing many of the same issues with campusing. I finished my first .13 this season, but still can't to a full basic ladder. I think, as mentioned, this has a lot to do with finger strength.
How is everyone warming up for a campus session? The guidelines in the book for a beginners warmup does not make sense. If I follow the suggested times to the T, then I'm traversing, without touching the ground for 20 min. Then a WBL for 30 minutes including rests. If I try to continue this then I can try one 'hard problem' maybe twice in the 10 minutes suggested. 10 minute rest between each phase = 1:10 warm up
If I don't include rest times then my warm up is looking like a 1.5 to 2 hour ordeal. At this point I follow the times for the traversing and WBL, then attempt suggestions during the hard bouldering phase. (2 to 4 quality attempts on 2 problems with ~3 min rest between attempts) Am i just getting too spent before hitting the board? Considering home board so I would just stretch, warm up on hang board w kick plate, then campus. No temptations!
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jul 31, 2015 20:28:51 GMT -7
If I don't include rest times then my warm up is looking like a 1.5 to 2 hour ordeal. I don't understand this sentence. Why would NOT including rest times make your warm-up duration increase? Anyway, it takes me about 55-75 minutes (depending on the day) from the time I first touch the wall until I start campusing. That includes ARC traversing, WBL, Hard Bouldering and all rest periods. But I'm old and it takes me a long time to warm up. That said, my campus session starts to suffer the closer that time gets to 75 minutes. Lately when that time is a big number I compress my campusing warmup sets, thus getting into the Max Ladders much more quickly. That usually helps. As always, YMMV. The best bet is to take good notes, make slight tweaks in your approach and use that information to figure out what works best for you. So, experiment with, say, less traversing, or less WBL, or fewer campus warmup sets and see what happens.
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Post by lvcrimping on Aug 1, 2015 0:02:24 GMT -7
The only way to make the suggested 2 to 4 quality attempts on 2 problems with ~3 min rest between attempts in 10 minutes would be to stop the clock during rests. If I did this during the other phases it would add time to the WBL. IDK if that makes sense, but I'm being nit-picky and annoying at this point. Ill shorten the overall time and effort before I get to the board, and as you said keep good records and see what happens. Thanks!
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Post by MarkAnderson on Aug 1, 2015 12:37:15 GMT -7
The only way to make the suggested 2 to 4 quality attempts on 2 problems with ~3 min rest between attempts in 10 minutes would be to stop the clock during rests. If I did this during the other phases it would add time to the WBL. IDK if that makes sense, but I'm being nit-picky and annoying at this point. Ill shorten the overall time and effort before I get to the board, and as you said keep good records and see what happens. Thanks! Ah, I see what you mean. I wouldn't take those guidelines too seriously (I don't). On a good day it takes me about 30 minutes to complete my ARCing and WBL, so that gives me 30-45 minutes to spend on Hard or Limit Bouldering. So do some trial and error and you'll figure out what works best for you.
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Post by ehowell on Feb 18, 2016 15:41:57 GMT -7
So, to rehash this thread, I've got another potentially unique scenario...
I can do 1-3-5 on almost any rung size (just shy on the small rungs for now), but anything beyond this just seems totally light years away right now. Considering the rung size doesn't seem to matter (much) for me, I'm assuming this must be a big muscle issue, correct? Any thoughts there on where the weakness might lie and how best to address it? Admittedly, even 1-3-5 felt light years away when I first started campusing, so maybe I'm just being impatient.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Feb 18, 2016 21:19:25 GMT -7
That could be it. It could also be a general technique or aggressiveness problem too. Like you said though, once you eventually figure out your true baseline, it takes a long time to make improvements. I would ask yourself if the ability to big moves on big holds is limiting your rock climbing performance*. If not, I would stick with what you are doing and eventually improvement will come.
*it didn't seem to me like you were having any problems with that on The Great Escape.
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Post by ehowell on Feb 19, 2016 7:03:38 GMT -7
Thanks Mark. This actually made me laugh out loud as I realized that I'm probably like most others, who forget that this is about climbing and obsess over campus performance. I'm guilty of this in general; no matter what phase I'm doing, it's the biggest deal in the world. I move into the next phase and I completely forget about it.
That being said, I do think I stand to gain a lot in my climbing by improving power in general, especially because I don't have reach working in my favor. Perhaps I put too much emphasis on campusing. Maybe once I can find a time when it's not a zoo in the gym, I'll film myself and post it up to see if it's something related more to technique.
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Post by joev9 on Feb 19, 2016 7:44:48 GMT -7
Does your campus board of 1/2 spaced rungs? I added in 3.5 and 4.5 and have been trying to advance from 1-3-5 by doing 1-3.5-5 and am about to add 5.5 to my board so I can work 1-3.5-5.5. I also agree with Mark on the aggressiveness, some of my best tries on the board are when I almost try too hard and surprise myself by sticking the next rung...
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Post by ehowell on Feb 19, 2016 7:52:59 GMT -7
Yes, the board does have half rungs. I progressed to 1-3-5 from 1-3-4.5, but I like your idea of trying 1-3.5-5.5. I'll give that a shot, as well as a little more "try hard".
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Post by joev9 on Feb 19, 2016 8:13:35 GMT -7
Yes, the board does have half rungs. I progressed to 1-3-5 from 1-3-4.5, but I like your idea of trying 1-3.5-5.5. I'll give that a shot, as well as a little more "try hard". I think it is helpful to work the longer pull on both ends, though I think it's harder to do the second pull (3.5 to x) versus the initial 1-3.5
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Post by MarkAnderson on Feb 19, 2016 9:02:57 GMT -7
Like the new profile pic Joe!
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Post by erick on Feb 19, 2016 15:02:23 GMT -7
Ill tag on my own question to this thread,
I just did my first campus workout of the season and my new baseline for small rungs are B1-3-6-B6 with both hands (metolius spacing) and that felt pretty easy for me. When I first started doing max ladders on the small rungs this seemed very difficult so its great to see how I have progressed. I was able to hit this regularly each time. But progression beyond this felt impossible so my question is which of these variations would be best to work on...
Option #1 B1-3-7-B7, I tried his for a while and on my best attempt my high hand was about an 1" under rung 7
Option #2 B1-4-7-B7, I tried this as well and 1-4-6 was easy but again progress beyond that seemed very far away
Option #3 B1-2-6-B6, I figure keeping the may be a way to progress to larger reaches with the higher hand
I am may also make sure I do at least three sets of my baseline with each arm because I imagine I would get more of a benefit out of latching something than having my high hand just scrape the board.
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thor
New Member
Posts: 13
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Post by thor on Feb 19, 2016 15:48:21 GMT -7
When you guys talk about movements on the campus board are you referring to moon spacing or metolius spacing on the rungs?
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Post by erick on Feb 19, 2016 15:56:05 GMT -7
The board I use has a spacing that is a little shorter than metolius spacing
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