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Post by heelhook on Jul 23, 2015 2:57:55 GMT -7
Hi guys I'm towards the end of my strength phase (one HB session left on the cycle). I've switched to the intermediate protocol with 7/3 and 2 sets. Since I'm pretty new to hangboarding I've been making PR on all but 1 out of the 5 last sessions (and the 1 where I didn't I was still feeling taxed and not completely recovered). Since the last workout on Tuesday I'm feeling a minor annoyance on the PIP joint of the left index finger, towards the outer part of the knuckle (so towards the thumb). I can feel the very mild pain when I bend and straighten the finger rapidly, with or without resistance. Bending or straightening slowly doesn't cause any strange sensations. Any advice? Should I go ahead with the next HB session tomorrow? Should I take another rest day? Thanks!  |
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Post by latestart on Jul 23, 2015 8:02:56 GMT -7
Based on the location, I'd guess it's a collateral ligament injury. Is there pain when you push the finger tip laterally (towards the thumb or middle finger), while keeping your first knuckle stationary? Are you using any pockets or holds that cause your fingers to twist at the PIP joint? I had similar pains from a poorly latched, angled crimp. The way I was latching the hold put my middle PIP joint at a funny angle.
My experience is that they're annoying, but as long as I buddy taped and didn't do anything that put lateral force on my fingers I was able to keep climbing.
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Post by latestart on Jul 23, 2015 8:04:05 GMT -7
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jul 23, 2015 9:33:35 GMT -7
Agree it sounds like collateral ligament inflammation and it's probably caused by poor form. There's a good chance one of your grip positions is twisting the finger as Latestart suggested. Take a good look at all of your grip positions and make sure you aren't doing anything that's tweaking that joint. IM pockets can be an issue for this as well as edges that force differently sized fingers to conform to a single surface. Having your hands too close to each other can be a problem too.
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Post by heelhook on Jul 23, 2015 9:58:28 GMT -7
Thanks latestart and MarkAnderson -- spot on, I just went through my grips. I've been using LVDER on the RPTC to train the semi closed crimp. To avoid straining my pulleys too much I've been putting my thumb next to the index instead of wrapping over it. Just now I rehearsed how I would load each grip. I've noticed that, for some reason, on this one I'm pushing my index towards the thumb (so laterally). Any recommendations on what I should do next? Icing + compression? Push tomorrow's HB session to Sat? Do the session but skip the hold and stop if I feel anything weird? Thanks for your help, you guys rock! |
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jul 23, 2015 14:08:24 GMT -7
Do the session but skip the hold and stop if I feel anything weird? I would do this one and see how it goes (or, adjust the grip so it isn't aggravating your PIP Joint). Hopefully by removing the cause of the irritation it will go away on its own. |
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Post by heelhook on Jul 24, 2015 11:16:40 GMT -7
Thanks MarkAnderson, I'm going to do that and see how it feels. |
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Post by heelhook on Jul 24, 2015 11:21:37 GMT -7
Incidentally guys, when you say "buddy tape" do you mean just the proximal phalange or all phalanges but the fingernail's? Thanks!
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