|
Post by MarkAnderson on Sept 30, 2015 8:50:36 GMT -7
Well that really sucks. I feel for you.
It sounds like you don't quite have the work capacity to all those things in a single session. The good news is, I think you only need one power session per week to maintain your power, and I'm certain you only need one PE session a week. So if your schedule allows for 2 training days a week, then alternating the focus should work well for you.
Also, I'm impressed you're climbing at all after what you've been through, so take it easy on yourself if you aren't climbing/training particularly well at the moment. If you give a good effort it should come back to you eventually.
|
|
|
Post by Chris W on Sept 30, 2015 11:40:40 GMT -7
Thanks Mark. I'll actually be getting 3-4 sessions in per week, at least 2 in the barn and hopefully 1-2 outside per week, same as if it were the power phase. ***I actually popped some ibuprofen and got 2 sessions in while I was sick (and still in denial) so I only "lost" my two outdoor days.
Some/all of the breakdown in the longer hybrid sessions is mental, primarily due to family stresses. It's very hard to find a long block of time long enough (1.5-2 hours) to complete the full hybrid workout. My wife gets antsy with the kids...
What do you think about changing the holds on the LBC to hit the target times? I did make a switch during today's LBC after repeatedly peeling off the rounded crimp on my third problem before any kind of terminal pump. Helped me stay on to complete the circuit, but felt like cheating.
***Definitely not doctor recommended
|
|
|
Post by MarkAnderson on Sept 30, 2015 13:14:12 GMT -7
You should definitely manipulate your Circuit to get the correct TUT. You can always make it harder again as you improve. If you're falling off too early, you aren't really training anything. So it's better to get the right duration, even if the intensity is a bit low, because at least then you're getting some kind of endurance training.
|
|
|
Post by Chris W on Oct 12, 2015 3:20:31 GMT -7
Turns out the crux of this season is finding climbing partners! This weekend made it out to the crag without a climbing partner and family in tow and begged people for a belay once I got there. Got a chance for one burn on Saturday and one on Sunday. This makes 3 days and 4 burns total for the season so far!
-Used the stick clip (thanks for that tip!) to clip up through the crux and have now worked out all the moves. -Almost climbed through the entire crux without falling yesterday. From big jug flake, 4 hand moves to get into position, 8 big/hard hand moves to get through the crux. -Will likely have to skip the clip in the middle of the crux making the fall longer if crux isn't completed. Haven't ever skipped a clip before, which makes me nervous. Falls should be very straightforward and safe.
1) When do you start redpoint attempts? My current plan is to work the crux without clipping through with the stick clip to expose myself to the falls (which make me nervous thinking about them). Once I can do the crux 'from the dog', I'll start redpoint attempts.
2) Any suggestions on how many incomplete crux attempts to try before pulling up the stick clip for more working burns? Don't want to reinforce falling at certain moves.
|
|
|
Post by MarkAnderson on Oct 12, 2015 8:46:51 GMT -7
Have you looked into extending a draw so you can clip the crux bolt form an easier/lower stance? Even if that isn't an option, I recommend hanging a sling from the bolt you're skipping so you can pull up to clip (without hauling up a stick clip) when you don't want to deal with the runout.
I would start trying to RP immediately. If you fall, then you can rest for a while (on the rope) and then boulder on the crux.
|
|
|
Post by daustin on Oct 12, 2015 10:10:54 GMT -7
If skipping the clip is safe, it can be a good move! (Mark's advice is still worthwhile, though.)
I have a long-standing project that is quite steep and fairly well-bolted. There's a clip right towards the end of the crux off decent holds but in an awkward stance. The next move after this clip is a fairly big, but easy, reach to a massive rest jug that has another clip. I've recently started skipping the crux clip -- if I get there, I know I won't fall on the next move to the jug but even if I did it would be safe, and I save just a little bit of juice by avoiding a strenuous clip. For this project in particular, where I've fallen off the top on V0 moves between jugs due to pump, I'll take any efficiency gain I can get!
Good luck, and I'd second Mark's recommendation to RP immediately -- sounds like you've got the beta covered via hangdogging, so now it's time to figure out if the crux is the same 'from the dog' as it is mid-RP attempt. And who knows, you might surprise yourself with a quick send!
|
|
|
Post by Chris W on Oct 13, 2015 2:25:01 GMT -7
I didn't think of extending a draw. Unfortunately, that won't work here. I recommend hanging a sling from the bolt you're skipping so you can pull up to clip (without hauling up a stick clip)
This is an interesting idea. I assume you just climb past/around the sling while moving through?
The "runout" isn't really that bad. At other crags, the bolt in the middle of the crux probably wouldn't exist. While pulling through the lower section of the crux, the last clip is at mid shin height. If I fall slapping for the jug to finish the crux, my last clip will be 6-7 feet below my waist and next clip will be about head height. The fall should be clean, climb is 10-15 degrees overhung with no obstacles in the way. I'll pendulum just a little to the climbers right.
Unfortunately, it doesn't look like I'll be able to hit my project again for another 2 weeks. Still can't dig up a belayer for this week, working a double shift on Saturday, then going to the New River Gorge (yay!) for a week for the first time. I'm hoping to avoid losing fitness while I'm gone. I've been working power maintenance pretty hard and may take a day at the New to boulder down at Hawks Nest.
Season crux = finding a belayer
|
|
|
Post by Lundy on Oct 13, 2015 11:00:17 GMT -7
Chris, If you get on the right routes at the NRG, you won't lose any power. There's lots of very bouldery climbing there that should suit you perfectly.
|
|
|
Post by MarkAnderson on Oct 13, 2015 11:19:23 GMT -7
I assume you just climb past/around the sling while moving through? Yep.
|
|
|
Post by Chris W on Oct 13, 2015 17:26:04 GMT -7
Lundy, any suggestions? The route I'm working is 5.12 something. It's listed as 12d on the website, but most folks thinks its 12b or 12c, I've even heard 12a. My PB redpoint was this spring at 11d.
Mark, thanks for all your tips. I certainly wouldn't have gotten this far this quickly without the help. It's a really cool process working a route like this and I'm learning a lot.
|
|
|
Post by MarkAnderson on Oct 13, 2015 19:30:14 GMT -7
You're welcome!
|
|
|
Post by Lundy on Oct 16, 2015 8:48:12 GMT -7
Hi Chris -- sorry I forgot to get back to you on this. Really most of the climbing there is bouldery, but if you want a few of my favorites in that grade range that aren't too pumpy/endurance-based (I'm sure others will have much to add), I'd recommend:
Endless: 11c: Aesthetica 12b: Bullet the New Sky 12b: Fall Line (a bit more pumpy than the others...)
Kaymoor: 12c: Pettifogger 12d: Slash and Burn
Beauty Mountain: 12b: Chunky Monkey
Sommersville: 12a: Narcissus
Hope this helps you find some good stuff to get on!
|
|
|
Post by Chris W on Nov 2, 2015 21:16:34 GMT -7
I am so stinkin' close to sending my project! I was supposed to end my performance phase last week, my power is declining, but today felt so god on the rock! Praying for dry weather on Thursday...
|
|
|
Post by sillygoose on Nov 2, 2015 23:39:21 GMT -7
.... today felt so god on the rock! I need to know your training regimen
|
|
|
Post by Chris W on Nov 3, 2015 5:18:07 GMT -7
I follow the Rock Prodigy regimen outlined in Mark and Mike's book The Rock Climbers Training Manual. If you don't have the book, I highly recommend it.
|
|