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Post by chrishorton on May 14, 2015 15:40:50 GMT -7
A lot of the time when I carve out time to get in a Campus or Limit Bouldering session, the gym is an absolute shit-show. There is no way I could even attempt to traverse or monopolize an auto belay for 20+ minutes.
I usually hangboard at home and during my past HB phase I started warming up by ARCing on the Hangboard by taking weight off using the pulley system and hanging for 15-20 minutes, alternating hands and grips every 30 seconds. I have been able to manage the pump by adjusting weight and occasionally using jibs. This was more than an ample warm up and I can only guess that it will provide the same capillary gains as if I had been traversing or climbing vertically.
Any thoughts to the contrary?
Known disadvantages: 1.) It probably the most boring thing I've ever done, 2). I'm definitely missing out on skills development and movement.
I apologize if this has been covered elsewhere. I looked for a similar thread.
Thanks!
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Post by jessebruni on May 14, 2015 15:56:58 GMT -7
Known disadvantages: 1.) It probably the most boring thing I've ever done Sounds like it! Holy crap. |
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Post by MarkAnderson on May 14, 2015 19:58:39 GMT -7
I think physiologically ARCing on a hangboard, if done well, could be just as good as regular ARCing (or even better, since it's easier to control). You hit on the major downsides, and while the first is just an inconvenience, the second is a really major drawback, especially if your skill level is not particularly high.
But, if it's the best you can do, then do it--it will be much better than skipping it entirely. I would strive for a compromise. ARC in the gym as much as you can, and make up the rest on your hangboard.
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Post by chrishorton on May 14, 2015 22:16:16 GMT -7
Thanks for the replies. It is a last resort for sure due to the drawbacks noted. It's more the exception than the rule, I just wanted reassurance that it wasn't a waste of my time as I have never heard of anyone else doing it this way. While I think I'm at a decent level, there's no such thing as too much practice when it comes to technical skill.
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Post by joev9 on May 15, 2015 6:58:43 GMT -7
So, here's something I think about when I'm doing some really miserable training (mostly running in the pouring rain or when it's really cold): this training is so hard that it makes everything else seem easy and will make me way tougher than anyone I would be competing against because they are all home in their warm bed (where I should probably be).
If you can make it through ARC'ing 20 minutes on a hangboard, everything else should feel joyfully easy!!!
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Post by chrishorton on May 15, 2015 9:56:31 GMT -7
Haha, I had that exact experience. After 2 Hangboard ARC sessions in a row, I experienced the most joyful ARCing ever when I got back into the gym to do it the next time.
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Post by slimshaky on May 15, 2015 15:14:15 GMT -7
i used to ARC on a hangboard a lot when i didn't live close to a gym. i thought it REALLY helped my endurance, particularly onsighting and especially when doing gear routes with a lot of tinkery gear. i got to where i was pretty good at onsighting these types of routes (although my belayers almost died of boredom belaying me  i would say do it in the gym when you can (sometimes i will skip out of work really early in the afternoon and then work more that night), and do it on the HB when necessary. |
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Post by daustin on May 18, 2015 14:22:26 GMT -7
I usually hangboard at home and during my past HB phase I started warming up by ARCing on the Hangboard by taking weight off using the pulley system and hanging for 15-20 minutes, alternating hands and grips every 30 seconds. I have been able to manage the pump by adjusting weight and occasionally using jibs. This was more than an ample warm up and I can only guess that it will provide the same capillary gains as if I had been traversing or climbing vertically. Just to clarify -- are you primarily alternating hands/grips without any footholds, and then occasionally placing your feet on jibs? And if so, how much weight do you take off for ARCing relative to your baseline for strength-focused hangboarding? |
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Post by chrishorton on May 19, 2015 11:18:11 GMT -7
Yes- I primarily alternate handholds without footholds for 2 minutes then I use the jibs for one minute to manage the pump. I take 37lb off, hard to say exactly what that is off my baseline since I use different holds during the ARC cycle. If we're talking about the jug, its about 57lbs off my baseline.
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Post by MarkAnderson on May 21, 2015 18:52:25 GMT -7
So, here's something I think about when I'm doing some really miserable training (mostly running in the pouring rain or when it's really cold): this training is so hard that it makes everything else seem easy and will make me way tougher than anyone I would be competing against because they are all home in their warm bed (where I should probably be). If you can make it through ARC'ing 20 minutes on a hangboard, everything else should feel joyfully easy!!! Your post reminded me of this quote from Jerry Moffatt's must-read book Revelations: "I’m the only one who is training; I’m getting an edge over everybody else. Everybody else is in Sheffield, nobody else is climbing. Everything’s wet. I’m the one who’s found a dry bit of rock, I’m the one who has found the motivation to get out here. This is why I’m going to be the best. "(page 52) |
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Post by chrishorton on May 24, 2015 19:54:43 GMT -7
Great quote. It got me stoked to train tonight while everyone else is getting wasted for the holiday weekend.
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Post by firebug on May 14, 2017 17:36:47 GMT -7
I realize this thread ended a while ago, but I´m in this situation, while I build my home woody. I curious if anyone has built a kick board to use while arcing on a hang board, and if so how did you attach it to the doorway (assuming you are using a doorway to hang board)?
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