Summer in Ceuse

[Philip Lutz]

I am going to be in Ceuse for the month of July.  I could not be more excited because I have never been there, and it has been difficult waiting for my Rockfax guidebook to arrive.  Has anyone else been to this magical place of streaked blue limestone and bolts? If you have any useful beta about anything (camping, food, training, conditions etc...), PLEASE share.  I have been to a few different limestone sport areas (Tensleep, Wild Iris, Sinks, El Chorro, Margalef, Siurana) how does it compare?  I am currently finishing up my Strength phase and have been going pretty hard on the pockets and crimps.  I am also going to be spending some time traveling (and climbing) in Italy in June, and I was planning on checking out Arco.

[MarkAnderson]

I've been there once. It's going to be hot in July. The massif more or less faces south, so most of the routes bake all day. However, with the sun high in the sky you might actually get a good deal of shade on the steeper walls during mid-day (I was there in September). The standard beta that time of year was to get up early and head to Sector Cascade, at the far west end of the cliffline, for morning shade, then move to the far east end of the cliffline when Cascade got too warm, find a roof to hide under and siesta until the evening shade arrives, then climb at Sectors Berlin, Biographie etc in the evening.

The climbing is long and pumpy, and generally not super steep. It's all about pump-management and efficiency (as oopposed to power). The holds can be slopey and slick. It doesn't compare to any of the crags you mentioned (I haven't been to El Chorro), except for a few exceptional climbs in the Killer Cave at Sinks. All those crags have sharper/more incut pockets, and bouldery cruxes. Ceuse generally does not--even the big jugs will have a slopey lip.

There's a campground at the base of the cliff that everyone stays at, I don't recall the name. It's a typical dirtbag climber situation. You can get everything you need in Gap. The best meal option we found was to get pizza from one of the many food trucks that park along the highways. Cheap and delicious.

That's all I can think of...good luck!
Mark

[Philip Lutz]

Thanks Mark!

Almost sounds like a French version of the Red...pumpy climbing and cheap pizza

[iepsje]

And it will get you fit, half an hour walk up hill before climbing