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Post by MarkAnderson on May 14, 2015 8:48:09 GMT -7
... should I be accounting for the associated reduction in resistance as I progress through my rehab? No.
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Post by majorsick on May 22, 2015 6:32:33 GMT -7
Postponed my board session last night. Finger doesn't hurt, but it felt sort of weak & vulnerable. Still feels that way a little bit today. 1st 3 workouts (spaced over 8 days) felt great and nearly pain free, and I've increased resistance by ~15-18% over that time. In your opinion, should I wait for this weakness feeling to completely subside?
I broke my leg and had surgery a few years ago, and I recall feeling sore/weak before nearly every PT session I had, and that obviously worked out OK.
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Post by MarkAnderson on May 22, 2015 14:24:35 GMT -7
I wouldn't wait, but I would be hyper-aware during the workout and quit early or dial-down the resistance if I was struggling in the least bit.
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Post by majorsick on May 29, 2015 6:15:01 GMT -7
Progress update:
At Mark's advice I started "stupid easy" and took off way more weight than I thought was necessary. I've been warming up by doing 3-4 sets of hangs on jugs, gradually increasing resistance until I get the the "Jug - Warmup" on the chart below. I opted for this warm up rather than ARCing in order to avoid any random loading of fingers. My sets are 6 reps of 7 second hang/ 3 second rest, then resting 3 minutes between all sets. The only pain I have felt was on the "S Incut" on 5/18, and I decided to skip that grip for 3 workouts, then reintroduce it with reduced resistance. It's been an exercise in self control to not increase resistance more quickly when there's no pain, but I'm psyched to be moving through the workouts with no issues. Assuming the progress continues in the same fashion, I should be back up to baseline resistance by the end of June.
I realize most will not be interested in the details here, but I figured I'd share a "success story" in progress to encourage folks to utilize this rehab technique.
Date Jug - Warmup Jug L Flat M Incut M Flat S Incut Set 1 Set 2 Set 1 Set 2 Set 1 Set 2 Set 1 Set 2 Set 1 Set 2 Set 1 Set 2 11-May -50 -50 -50 -50 -75 -75 -75 -75 -75 -75 14-May -75 -75 -45 -40 -45 -40 -65 -65 -65 -65 -65 -65 18-May -65 -65 -40 -40 -40 -35 -60 -55 -60 -55 -55 -55 22-May -60 -60 -35 -30 -35 -30 -55 -50 -50 -50 27-May -55 -55 -30 -25 -30 -25 -50 -45 -50 -45 29-May -50 -50 -25 -20 -25 -20 -45 -40 -45 -40
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Post by MarkAnderson on May 29, 2015 20:01:57 GMT -7
I really appreciate you sharing your success story. I think it helps the skeptics to hear corroborating stories from several sources.
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Post by climber511 on May 30, 2015 6:55:16 GMT -7
Climbers are generally way behind the times in regards to injury and rehab - others sports (one's where athletes get paid millions) have protocols in place that we should be reading and utilizing. Plus the word "prehab" seems to almost have been invented with climbers in mind.
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Post by majorsick on May 30, 2015 17:00:37 GMT -7
I'll post again with a full report when I've finished. I am needing more rest between sessions as resistance increases. I've also slowed the increase down - probably a function of starting way easy.
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Post by majorsick on Jun 9, 2015 10:11:03 GMT -7
So as I continue to add resistance and the workouts get harder, I'm questioning my decision to try to work back up to baseline HB training weight. It's taking longer to recover between workouts and the resistance I'm at now would probably equate to a vertical 5.10. I'm planning to start an ARC phase immediately following rehab, and since I will be ARCing around 5.8, I'm wondering if I should stop the rehab program and begin ARCing. Thoughts anyone?
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jun 9, 2015 15:34:21 GMT -7
It's always better to err on the side of caution when rehab-ing an injury. If your gut is telling you to back off, then back off. Also, since your plan is to start a new training cycle eventually anyway, I would suggest you take a week or two off, and then start your new cycle with Base Fitness, then a new Strength Phase, and so on. I've found an iterative approach (alternating rehab phases with brief rest phases) works really well.
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jdb
New Member
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Post by jdb on Jun 17, 2015 8:33:45 GMT -7
I recommend every 3rd day for normal/healthy hangboarding. When you're injured, all bets are off. There will probably be some swelling and extra tenderness after rehab, so space the sessions such that there is enough time for those symptoms to subside between sessions. Practically, I recommend you start by rehab-ing every 4th day and see how that goes. If it goes well, you can drop back to every 3rd day, but I would still suggest throwing in an extra rest day every two or three sessions. Does anyone have any experience of delayed onset symptoms for finger injuries (DOMS). I tweaked my fingers slightly a few weeks ago holding onto a crimp after a foot slip. Doesn't seem too bad, but have been trying to do some fingerboard rehab sessions to get it back to 100% to start a training cycle in about 3 weeks. My experience is that it feels fine for the 2 days after rehab. Well it's a bit tight/sore for an hour or so in the morning but fine after that. Then on the 3rd day it starts aching with a dull ache (top section of palm to PIP joint on multiple fingers), before gradually calming down again over the next several days. So the symptoms of rehab seem to begin right when I'd be planning to do the next session. If I waited for the delayed symptoms to completely go, would be 5/6/7 days in between rehab sessions. Any advice on whats best to do in this situation? Thanks
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jun 18, 2015 13:21:21 GMT -7
My total guess is that the rehab is stimulating some positive reaction in the injured tissue (like improved blood flow), and that makes it feel better, or at least masks any discomfort. After a couple days, this effect dissipates, and you're left with the background irritation caused by the initial injury. If that were true, then it would be beneficial to do another rehab session as soon as the ache returns. Of course, I may be completely wrong.
Have you tried rehab hangboarding on the 3rd day, despite the soreness? That is what I would do. Certainly be careful when doing this, but I think your best bet is to experiment (carefully) and see what happens.
(Also, "DOMS" is Delayed Onset Muscle Soreness. What you are experiencing is not DOMS, since the soreness is not in your muscles.)
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jdb
New Member
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Post by jdb on Jun 22, 2015 8:22:50 GMT -7
Thanks for the advice. I hadn't thought about it that way before. Rehabbing it (or climbing) every third/forth day, seemed to repeat the cycle (ie feels better after the rehab for about 2 days then starts aching again). I was doing this initially after the injury, then took a weeks break as I was planning on a full week off for the rest phase anyway & wanted to see what happened if I broke this cycle.
Am currently planning on doing the hangboard rehab every 3/4 days for the next 2 weeks. Then depending on how it feels, try to decide whether it's best to start the next training cycle (with a 4 week ARC phase), or cut into the time I have for the next training cycle a bit and carry on with the HB work.
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Post by majorsick on Jun 23, 2015 12:21:56 GMT -7
I just finished up my hangboarding rehab stint and would definitely recommend it. I decided not to continue the rehab resistance progression back to my hangboard training baseline, but rather get to bodyweight on jugs at which point I would begin a new training phase (starting with base fitness). I just completed my first ARC workout last night and am pain free.
This approach is an exercise in patience (especially early on) but it makes SOO much more sense than taking a bunch of time off and then just easing back into easy climbing. It's way too easy to push yourself too hard too fast.
Thanks everyone for your input. I'm looking forward to embarking on my first RCTM training cycle.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jun 23, 2015 14:55:27 GMT -7
Awesome man, glad to hear it worked out. One question though. After you start training, with all the progress you will make, do you anticipate a promotion to colonelsick?
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Post by Evan Marlatt on Jun 23, 2015 16:52:57 GMT -7
How far away from being 100% would you say you are majorsick?
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