Eva Lopez´s method

[ernirulez]

Hi all,
well, this post is more a question to Mike. I would like to know what you think about Eva Lopez´s hangboard method? I mean comparing it to the one of your book. Do you think it´s enough by hanging with the same grip position, because it seems that her method is just about that..

Thank you very much,

Ernesto

[adam]

What is the specific protocol that Lopez suggests? Her website is a little difficult to understand and get a clear idea of what her program is. Anyone able to provide a succinct summary?

[robdebruyn]

From what I remember off the top of my head, it's a maximum weight single hang of 10 seconds. Then rest 3 mins. I believe she advocates fixing the depth of the edge for a number of weeks (four?), and increasing resistance, then doing body weight hangs on progressively smaller edges for a cycle of equal length. She recommends only using an open handed grip.

I asked essentially this same question on the website maybe a year ago, and here's what I remember of Mark's response (sorry in advance to Mark if I butcher it!):

This workout trends more toward a Max Recruitment workout, due to the high intensity and very short time under tension. Any gains from this workout will be neuromuscular, as it doesn't generate enough metabolic stress to create gains in strength.

[jessebruni]

I think rob has it pretty much correct. It's a 10 second hang but it should be at a weight where you will fail at 12 seconds. You should not be failing at 10, that would be too intense, and you should not be failing at 13 or 14, that would be too light. So 4 weeks at that weight, then you do 4 weeks on the smallest edge you can hold for 10 seconds (where 12 would cause failure) with no added weight.

[MarkAnderson]

If you're curious about it, you should try it and see if it makes you a better climber.  My opinion won't impact the effectiveness of the program.

[sr]

videos of her workouts are here:
en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/2013/04/some-finger-training-instructional.html

Week one is 3 reps of 10 sec hangs (max weight) 3 min rest; W2 - 4 reps; W3 and W4 - 5 reps. I think there is a deload week then you use small edges.

[jorgemendoza]

You should read her paper. It will give you a better understanding of the method, the people to which is directed, purpose, et cetera. Here is a snapshot of the name and abstract. I have the paper, but I don't know if I should upload it to the forum (Would that be copyright infringement?).

[amalec]

AFAIK, the main similarities & differences between Eva Lopez' work and the RCTM are as follows:

1) Both are linear progression approaches to strength
2) RCTM embeds the strength phase in a multi-week/month training plan. Lopez does not in her published writing, but may in her consultation (she certainly implies there are block phases to her approach - e.g., in her recent mega posts on ARC training).
3) RCTM focuses on training on range of holds that simulate holds likely to be found in the wild; Lopez is primarily about getting stronger in the open hand position with an assertion that open hand strength translates well to a variety of hold positions.
4) RCTM has progression primarily focused on adding weight on each hold type; Lopez has a double progression method that focuses on being able to hang open hand from smaller and smaller holds, where adding weight is preparatory to going to a smaller hold.

The key difference is really (3) and (4); both are relatively easily testable if you wanted to do the study. Again, the key difference is:

a) Whether general open hand strength translates well in practice to a range of hold types or that it is better to train on a variety of hold types AND
b) Whether general open hand strength can be best trained by progression to narrower holds.

Note that you could believe (a) and not (b) (i.e., you could primarily train by adding weight to a single hold type).

[ernirulez]

Thank you very much guys. Well, I was just curious since the hangboard training from Eva was so different I couldn´t imagine how it could be as good as people claim. In any case I will follow rock prodigy training religiously